SUP

@fredk exactly. Plenty of sizes of earrings to suit one's purpose. I have started using those larger earring backs too. They are flat and the thread does not get entangled in them.

These are what I DON"T like, @Frodo and why I started this thread. These pins are very sharp and can easily scratch the leather as I try to place them and the pin backs are heavy and unwieldy. The thread keeps constantly getting entangled in them because of their particular design as well. Mine are just thrown aside, with bloody fingers. That is why I use inexpensive earrings all the time, as I explained here. They work great but the backs are small and can come loose. Therefore, these pin-backs might work with the U-clips idea from @Northmount. or with slightly larger earrings... let's see. All trial and error until I reach a good solution.

@Frodo I think so too. Versatile little things, if they work. @NatesLeatherGds I'll get back on whether they work... or not.

@Frodo not yet. When I do use my sewing machine, I'll remember that. @Northmount Just discovered something on Amazon today to use with those paper clip pieces. These pin-backs work like the backs on those stitch holders which are the rage today - that I described at the start of this thread. They can be used on anything which fits, from name tags to brooches to badges. I have ordered them already.

I've been lax. I need to pull up my socks and get to work. I will do a detailed update next week. Had a sudden cold and rainy spell but warmer now, so it is time to see how winter affected the leather outside.

I found this video while looking for something else. It shows more or less what I do, although I use a primer at first. I got something from the same place earlier via Etsy. how to burnish leather edgeseasy&fastبه راحتی رنگ لبه بزن_سریع و آسان - YouTube

Diluted black dye might give you that dark grey color. You could try it on a piece of scrap first.

The results look nice but look evidently machine-made and not hand-made, at least what is shown on their site.

Oh, I will. I'm always getting cuts during stitching, and those are deep, so I'm very careful. That is why I started this thread as well - to pass on info I have about non-sharp stitch holders. In the process I got more ideas, which is nice.

@Northmount Thank you. That is so easy to make and use. They are blunt and strong, just what leatherworkers need.

@DwightT you are right about the impersonal nature of the Internet. But see, an internet search is one thing; a specific question asked and answered becomes a conversation. Isn't it? @DwightT, @jrdunn You both are two of the many who do respond appropriately. The number who don't are only a few on this forum, thankfully. Anyway, once in a while is no issue. We all get busy sometimes and miss responding. It is when something is specifically asked and specifically responded to, within a few hours and then the asker does not say anything at all, that is what gets to me. Anyway, no sweating the small stuff. Like I say to all and sundry, the people here, for the most part, are wonderful and that is what I prefer to see and keep in mind.

I usually clean my leathers with a dilute solution of Dawn dishwashing liquid, dry it and then condition it. I have tried saddle soap and it was not much different anyway.

Aha. Same boat then. But I refuse to think of myself as old. Just more experienced.

@TomE that is a very interesting technique. It might work for me. Will try it out on some scraps as soon as I find a spray bottle. Thank you.

@TomE My concern is that after dyeing, I need to buff and that will make the leather rough. Without buffing, the dye always spreads. I am now thinking of not dyeing at all and keeping the natural leather color. Not even neatsfoot oil because that absorbs like crazy since it is a split - like it does on the fleshy side of full grain leather. I am thinking of just burnishing it on both sides, taking care in the brand area and then deciding which side will be on the outside based on the results. The brand mark is burnt very deep on one side and if I can, I plan to put that on the outside. Let's see. I tried with dye before and after Tokonole - not good results. I tried Antiquing before Tokonole, after Tokonole, with of course a resist and not good either. Luckily, just Tokonole gives a nice enough finish. Let's see.

If people talk of using goat's milk soap, it is usually people making and selling the soaps as well. Most use Ivory or Castile soap or glycerin soap. In fact, some recipes say any type of soap will do, scented or unscented. After all, the only thing it does is clean and any soap can do that. The wax prevents the leather from getting too dry. It need not even be beeswax. Neatsfoot oil probably helps in penetration into the leather.

My issue is the smoothening of the leather surface. Will it get as smooth with Tokonole after dyeing? @terrymac do you know? @Hags I thought so too. I allowed it to dry overnight and will apply some sheen or Resolene today. I'll post what happens here. looks like there is a lot of more experimentation to do before I work on the actual bag.

@jrdunn It's not you. I forget too sometimes but I try to keep watch on things I post and request. If you ever forget to respond to anything I might give you information for, I'll remember your apology in advance. But see, if you respond, the info provider knows whether their solution works and it benefits everyone. So try, okay? Unless you are in your 60s, consider this grandmotherly advice! The length? Mine are longer! So no worries.

@Ferg Yes. I'm so glad I did. I learnt so much. His online videos are good too. The basic tooling one is free, which is nice. It allows you to get an idea and decide if it is what you want to do. 90 years young is absolutely correct; it is matter of how one feels, isn't it, not chronological age. As I age, I accept changes which prevent me from doing some things that I did when younger but I'm happy to be alive. Many do not have that privilege.

I have a split with a clear brand mark that I want to use to make a bag. The split is not hairy at all and is, in fact, pretty smooth but it is a bit rough, especially on the side that I want on the outside of the bag. The reverse side is smooth enough not to need any smoothening but the brand mark is not as clear. I burnished a couple of pieces of scrap with Tokonole and it burnishes well on both sides and looks great. I tried dyeing those pieces and they take the dye well too. I burnished after the dye and it does not come off either. I am a little hesitant to do that on the larger pieces though. Has anyone dyed their leather after Tokonole and what is your experience? It would help to know before I go ahead.

@Sheilajeanne Thank you. I plan to make another stone soon and will put that up as well. This is a lovely, easy technique and Jim is such a pleasant person to learn from. I will put up my feather as soon as I complete it. I plan to get to the feather later this week. I'm busy trying to make a bag with a split with a clear brand on it. I was just thinking of starting a new thread about dyeing splits after applying Tokonole. On my sample pieces the leather does take the dye and it does not come off with buffing. Wondered about other people's experience.

@Littlef it is an old toy saddle for a toy wooden horse. It is very charming and well made. The reason I'm not sure about taking it apart is because of the mold. I will have to work outside far away from my work area to prevent it spreading. Here it is rainy and humid now so it will be a while before i can do that. Let's see if I can find anything to completely get rid of the mold. If I do, then that is an option. If not. it will have to be trashed. Right now, I plan to douse it periodically with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and vinegar for a few days. That will either completely break it down or get rid of the mold. If the latter, I might be able to get the pattern.

@Littlef I know. I know I have to write it off. And I know nothing about making saddles. So I cannot make a new one from the pattern either. I feel rather sad about it.

@Mulesaw yes I thought it needs to be written off. Such a pity really. I don't know a thing about making saddles, so I don't know how I can make a new one. I am perfectly willing to try but not knowing the a b c of saddle making, my trying would be like I am suddenly trying to write a play! And since it is so moldy, I cannot bring it into my work area either. About the horse, I have no idea what it is. it is not a rocking horse. It is in my storage at the moment. I will go there on the week-end and get some pics.

@BigBore, @Hildebrand I agree absolutely about basketweave stamps. I can never get them right, so I have not yet started doing them seriously. No matter how hard I try the 2nd stamp is always a little crooked and then what's the point? @Hildebrand you are right that such people are fewer in this forum but they do exist, unfortunately.