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This week, three of my old knives have loosened or cracked handles. I am really miffed about it. The blades are fine. Is there anything that I can do? Or will I need a cutler or bladesmith? One of them, a Henckel, has a beautiful ebony handle that I am loathe to replace. I have cleaned it and kept it aside. I plan to call the company to ask if they have any suggestions. On another, the handle is completely cracked and will need replacement. That is a Rose, probably pre-1916. The third, a Dixon, the handle has come off and can be replaced or the same used, if possible. As much as possible, I like to keep things as is. I've been looking online and see plenty of ready-made handles - no idea of quality or even how to select the appropriate size. Any guidance is much appreciated.

Yep. That's the one @Wepster. Has anyone used it and is it any good? That's what I am wondering.

That's okay.

It is an electrical machine. Is that what you are talking about? The Owden hand held rollers I have as well and like them. It appears Tandy no longer produces these.

Where did you find the Owden edge dye roller machine? I can't find it on Amazon. I like Owden products.

@fredk I wish we had something like that here. I'm sure most people would not mind the 5% increase in taxes. But the insurance lobbies and their political lackies will not allow it. Now getting out of this topic before people jump on me about it!

@Double Daddy thank you.

Craftool Pro Edge Dye Roller machine. I might be able to get one but I am wondering if it works well. Does it use a lot of dye? Is it practical for the hobbyist? I would love to hear from people who are using it or have used it.

@Double Daddy, this is a good find. These days I find that often, Amazon does not always have the lowest prices. If it is a couple of dollars difference, I consider it a convenience tax! LOL

@BigDogPaul1962 that is a really good comparison of prices that you have done. Thank you for sharing that. I usually go to Tractor Supply Co. and did not realize that Walmart is often cheaper. Now, I will not feel comfortable buying anything without making a similar comparison! LOL.

@Handstitched everything has its advantages and disadvantages. Free medical treatment, free education etc. all have their downside as well, just like our paid systems here. Nothing is every really free, is it?

What @fredk says is so true. Besides, earlier it was just a matter of what people knew in their own locality and shared with each other. Now, we get knowledge from around the world. They undoubtedly use other products as well, do things in other ways. There is so much to learn, so much more to know.

@fredk I agree. @bruce johnson that's true. I am beginning to think that oils from recent organic sources - animal and plant oils - penetrate better and therefore give better lubrication, while extracts from long ago organic sources - fossil fuel derivatives - remain more on the surface - ergo the smooth texture, uniform color and water resistance. Differences in organic structure probably. I have forgotten much of my organic chemistry. An organic chemist here might be able to give a better insight. I might be wrong about this as well, so if anyone knows, please correct me.

Neatsfoot oil compound seems to be a mix of neatsfoot oil and mineral oils of different types, from the MSDS, not silicones, as many people online seem to insist. Others say it has lanolin and mink oil, both more expensive than pure neatsfoot oil. If it were these two ingredients, the price of Neatsfoot oil compound would be higher than pure Neatsfoot oil, which it is not. Mineral oils and other petroleum derivatives are much cheaper than Neatsfoot oil and bring down the price. I suspect it is as simple as that.

Oh. He's from Australia - of course. In that case, they are probably smaller. He has mentioned mm as well. I should have looked more closely. @SteveOz sorry about that. Since these strap holder staples are from watch straps, they will be a different size from those used for belts. Someone who makes watch straps should best be able to guide you. There are many of them on this site. If they have not spoken up, maybe you could modify your title of the thread to reflect this - if that is possible?

The ones I received from 2 different sources, as staples for belt keepers are much more flimsy though - from Tandy and Amazon. His look a lot sturdier than mine and mine are smaller than 1 inch.

I see. These are thicker and a little larger than the the belt keeper staples. Hmmm. They might be called something else.

@toxo thank you.

Yes. @toxo It took me a while to find that name too. Where did you find them?

Oh That's beautiful @Sheilajeanne.The colors and pattern on both bags. Love that green and red.

The ones you have shown @SteveOz are the same items as those suggested by others here. The manufacturer might be different. . You could check different sellers until you get the exact shape and size that you need. You know what it is called, so that will help. Most leather stores have them in some form.

About stamping, you could spray water just sufficiently to penetrate no more than half way through the layer being stamped. Just look at the edges to get an idea. The back should remain dry. It works for me. For a spray bottle, I find that the delayed sprayer that Tandy sells is really useful. It gives more control. When dyeing, this is what I do. It might help. Stamped or not, I let the leather dry completely, A thin layer of Neatsfoot oil. I let that dry completely for a few hours at least. Apply a diluted dye. Dry. Buff lightly to remove surface dye. Repeat dyeing step if darker color needed. Buff. A resist like Pro-resist. A resist prevents further dyeing of the leather. So I try to keep it out of the stamped areas. Dry. Finally, the antiquing paste, rubbed into the stamped sections and then wiped off to remove it completely from the rest of the leather but left in place in the stamped depressions. Dry. Buff, and then apply a finish like Satin Shene. You can try to do a reverse if you have a light hand, if you want a really dark background. This is where the stamped sections remain undyed or light and the rest of the leather is dyed darker. This is tricky to do though. There are threads for both techniques on this forum, from people who are much more experienced, who can give much more valuable insight. For your darker dye, you could contrast with light thread - beautiful stitching can be as decorative as stamps.

That is lovely @Sheilajeanne . Thank you! That is what I wanted to know. The texture on your leather is just like on those gorgeous old bags too.

You need to do antiquing. That is where you dye the leather one color, apply a resist and then apply an antiquing paste, which is essentially a darker dye. You rub in the antiquing dye so that it gets into the stamped parts and shows it up clearly.. Search for 'antiquing' on this forum. you will find plenty of threads providing specific instructions. If you don't want to go down that route, you can just apply neatsfoot oil or coconut oil (both lightly) and keep the leather pieces in the sun. That darkens the leather beautifully and the stamped patterns might be clear as well.

Yep. Knowledge is never wasted - I told my professor that once when I was a student when he found me reading a completely different subject. Made an enemy that day. LOL Incidentally that is not 'my' experiment. Others play as much a part, from @fredk , who is also conducting the experiment, @chuck123wapati who had started as well to those who give their input from their knowledge. Any input from you is welcome too.