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@DwightT you are right about the impersonal nature of the Internet. But see, an internet search is one thing; a specific question asked and answered becomes a conversation. Isn't it? @DwightT, @jrdunn You both are two of the many who do respond appropriately. The number who don't are only a few on this forum, thankfully. Anyway, once in a while is no issue. We all get busy sometimes and miss responding. It is when something is specifically asked and specifically responded to, within a few hours and then the asker does not say anything at all, that is what gets to me. Anyway, no sweating the small stuff. Like I say to all and sundry, the people here, for the most part, are wonderful and that is what I prefer to see and keep in mind.

I usually clean my leathers with a dilute solution of Dawn dishwashing liquid, dry it and then condition it. I have tried saddle soap and it was not much different anyway.

Aha. Same boat then. But I refuse to think of myself as old. Just more experienced.

@TomE that is a very interesting technique. It might work for me. Will try it out on some scraps as soon as I find a spray bottle. Thank you.

@TomE My concern is that after dyeing, I need to buff and that will make the leather rough. Without buffing, the dye always spreads. I am now thinking of not dyeing at all and keeping the natural leather color. Not even neatsfoot oil because that absorbs like crazy since it is a split - like it does on the fleshy side of full grain leather. I am thinking of just burnishing it on both sides, taking care in the brand area and then deciding which side will be on the outside based on the results. The brand mark is burnt very deep on one side and if I can, I plan to put that on the outside. Let's see. I tried with dye before and after Tokonole - not good results. I tried Antiquing before Tokonole, after Tokonole, with of course a resist and not good either. Luckily, just Tokonole gives a nice enough finish. Let's see.

If people talk of using goat's milk soap, it is usually people making and selling the soaps as well. Most use Ivory or Castile soap or glycerin soap. In fact, some recipes say any type of soap will do, scented or unscented. After all, the only thing it does is clean and any soap can do that. The wax prevents the leather from getting too dry. It need not even be beeswax. Neatsfoot oil probably helps in penetration into the leather.

My issue is the smoothening of the leather surface. Will it get as smooth with Tokonole after dyeing? @terrymac do you know? @Hags I thought so too. I allowed it to dry overnight and will apply some sheen or Resolene today. I'll post what happens here. looks like there is a lot of more experimentation to do before I work on the actual bag.

@jrdunn It's not you. I forget too sometimes but I try to keep watch on things I post and request. If you ever forget to respond to anything I might give you information for, I'll remember your apology in advance. But see, if you respond, the info provider knows whether their solution works and it benefits everyone. So try, okay? Unless you are in your 60s, consider this grandmotherly advice! The length? Mine are longer! So no worries.

@Ferg Yes. I'm so glad I did. I learnt so much. His online videos are good too. The basic tooling one is free, which is nice. It allows you to get an idea and decide if it is what you want to do. 90 years young is absolutely correct; it is matter of how one feels, isn't it, not chronological age. As I age, I accept changes which prevent me from doing some things that I did when younger but I'm happy to be alive. Many do not have that privilege.

I have a split with a clear brand mark that I want to use to make a bag. The split is not hairy at all and is, in fact, pretty smooth but it is a bit rough, especially on the side that I want on the outside of the bag. The reverse side is smooth enough not to need any smoothening but the brand mark is not as clear. I burnished a couple of pieces of scrap with Tokonole and it burnishes well on both sides and looks great. I tried dyeing those pieces and they take the dye well too. I burnished after the dye and it does not come off either. I am a little hesitant to do that on the larger pieces though. Has anyone dyed their leather after Tokonole and what is your experience? It would help to know before I go ahead.

@Sheilajeanne Thank you. I plan to make another stone soon and will put that up as well. This is a lovely, easy technique and Jim is such a pleasant person to learn from. I will put up my feather as soon as I complete it. I plan to get to the feather later this week. I'm busy trying to make a bag with a split with a clear brand on it. I was just thinking of starting a new thread about dyeing splits after applying Tokonole. On my sample pieces the leather does take the dye and it does not come off with buffing. Wondered about other people's experience.

@Littlef it is an old toy saddle for a toy wooden horse. It is very charming and well made. The reason I'm not sure about taking it apart is because of the mold. I will have to work outside far away from my work area to prevent it spreading. Here it is rainy and humid now so it will be a while before i can do that. Let's see if I can find anything to completely get rid of the mold. If I do, then that is an option. If not. it will have to be trashed. Right now, I plan to douse it periodically with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and vinegar for a few days. That will either completely break it down or get rid of the mold. If the latter, I might be able to get the pattern.

@Littlef I know. I know I have to write it off. And I know nothing about making saddles. So I cannot make a new one from the pattern either. I feel rather sad about it.

@Mulesaw yes I thought it needs to be written off. Such a pity really. I don't know a thing about making saddles, so I don't know how I can make a new one. I am perfectly willing to try but not knowing the a b c of saddle making, my trying would be like I am suddenly trying to write a play! And since it is so moldy, I cannot bring it into my work area either. About the horse, I have no idea what it is. it is not a rocking horse. It is in my storage at the moment. I will go there on the week-end and get some pics.

@BigBore, @Hildebrand I agree absolutely about basketweave stamps. I can never get them right, so I have not yet started doing them seriously. No matter how hard I try the 2nd stamp is always a little crooked and then what's the point? @Hildebrand you are right that such people are fewer in this forum but they do exist, unfortunately.

Here are the pics. Frankly, it is so crumbly, I wonder if I can restore it or should just write it off. It is so lovingly made, I hate to do that though.

@Littlef thank you.

That's so true, that one needs to be thicker skinned. It is not worth getting bitter. I just put those people in the "Hmmm.. Who?' list. Along with the nasty or rude ones. Life is too short to waste time on the unpleasant people.

Another pet peeve - Ungrateful or rude people - not sure which it is. I mean people who want help with something and I share what I know and there is neither acknowledgment nor even a response about whether what I suggested worked. That is so rude. I always make it a point to respond to every comment I get, especially when I ask for help. It is basic courtesy! Are people today really so rude and uncouth? And lets not talk about 'having time'. If they have the time to talk about a problem over weeks, they have the time to respond. And it does not just happen on this forum, it seems to be everywhere.

@DieselTech I do cherish that feather. I was delighted to receive it. Everyone wanted it which is why it was raffled. The pendant was surprisingly easy to make. Next one I plan to make without the cracks. I like it better without but added them in class because I wanted to learn how to do it. Spent all day today typing the procedure with matching photographs. I prefer that to filming the class like some others did.

Some pics: The first is a feather carved by Jim Linnell. He made it during the class and it was raffled. I won and got to take it home. I plan to frame it and aim to reach at least half-way to that expertise in carving some day. Mine is still not done. Might put it up once completed; cannot promise, though it's not too bad. It looks a little like it's from a bird has been through a storm versus Jim's which looks like it's from a calm and collected bird! This is a turquoise pendant that I made in another class with Jim Linnell. I'm rather pleased with it. Everything from the 'silver' mount to the actual turquoise 'stone' itself are of leather.

I think that maybe the 9oz. leather does not crease - too thick to do that. When I make bracelets or straps for bags, it is thinner leather and that is why I probably face that issue. And I agree, stitching horses have jaws that hold the leather flat. I wonder if we get curved ones. It would be of so much of help to all of you who sew larger items in different shapes. Maybe someone with expertise in woodworking will come up with one.

@Mulesaw I will put up pics but it will have to be tomorrow. I need to find a place far away from everything else so that the mold spores do not get around and damage anything else. As it is, it is very humid where I live these days so there is little needed to encourage mold.

I found an old children's wooden horse with a leather saddle. I cleaned the horse and the saddle but the saddle is riddled with mold. I am in the process of cleaning it. Wipe and vinegar wash to start. The straps and seat seem okay but one of the sections under the back of the seat, no idea what it is called, is 2 pieces stitched together and pieces came off it as I tried to open it gently and spray inside. I literally have pieces of it. It seems to be veg-tanned leather and it is not peeling. I have pieces of it like one takes off pieces off a side of cake or cookie! How and why does that happen? Is the mold causing it? or lack of conditioning? Poor care? Probably all of these. More important, can it be saved? I have no idea of the age of the thing. I would appreciate any help here.

See, any time 2 layers of leather are stuck together, there is potential for creasing on one side or the other, depending on how the leather is folded, especially if the leather is not firm. e.g. I plan to use some filigree stamps on a bracelet, with filigreed leather on the uppermost surface, the colored lining and the inner lining which will be the same as the filigreed leather but without filigree. But it is soft leather, not firm leather and it will not be molded into a specific shape. I can stick this flat, in which case, when I curve the bracelet to wear it around my wrist, will not the innermost layer crease?