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carljc72

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Everything posted by carljc72

  1. I completely agree. I have had nothing but positive experiences with Tim and the rest of the staff at Zach White. Carl What color and quantity are you looking for?
  2. Zack White sells Dot Snaps. They only sell sets so you will get all 4 pieces and they only sell them in silver. They end up being around $15 per dozen sets. Here is the link http://www.eleatherworks.com/home.php?cat=901 Carl
  3. +1 to the real thing. I still have a few regular caps also...but now I am spoiled. Will probably never use them, at least not for my customers. Carl
  4. I got mine from them as well. http://www.mcmaster.com/#8633k63/=31j83x is the exact product I bought. You can get an idea of what the pads look like from the pics in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...=17832&st=0. There are a a few pics on page 2. Carl
  5. Oh my...that is amazing. I love the rig. Very nice. Carl
  6. Ok...I was hoping for wiggle your toes and chant 3 times and poof it would be fixed . It sounds like I need to change my methods a little (and work a little harder). Thank you everyone for all your great ideas. Carl
  7. What do you do to the interior? I am not having anything rub off on the outside...only on the inside. And can this holster be salvaged? I use neatsfoot oil on some holsters and most of the straps I make. I am definitely not against its use. I have just never applied anything but an acrylic finish after slicking the inside. Thanks, Carl
  8. There has been a thread about this subject before but I have another question. Do you dye, buff and then slick the inside of the holster? Can you buff after slicking? Do you finish the inside with Resolene (or your choice) before assembly? I have a friend that has one of my recent holsters and he has dye coming off onto his Les Baer stainless. I asked him to give it back to me so I could hopefully fix the problem. I used Angelus Black, then used gum trag to slick, formed and boned and then I used an airbrush to spray Angelus acrylic high gloss. I am definitely going to change my process but does anyone have advice for fixing my "booboo"? Thanks, Carl
  9. I only went to the edge when boning...I have not tried boning the shark yet. Can anyone tell us how well it shows detail? I molded it in a press and it formed pretty well.
  10. Thanks Dave, I will call them tomorrow. I name dropped you the last time I called them about some shark and stingray. I was thinking they told me they only sold whole hides in everything but elephant. Then again...maybe that's why my wife tells me not to do the thinking. Carl
  11. I did scuff it up and I bought the shark from Springfield Leather. Carl
  12. Does anyone sell smaller pieces of Ostrich (maybe by the foot or in 1 or 2 sqft pieces)? I realize ostrich is not cheap and most places only want to sell entire hides, but I only need enough to make 1 holster. It will be for a 5" 1911 with full coverage on the front of the holster. Also, as a side note, can it be dyed like most leathers? Thanks Carl
  13. It was not bad. It does require an extremely sharp edger (mine isn't sharp enough...lol). A little extra time burnishing was truly all that it needed. Thanks for the compliments, Carl
  14. I have to agree. Well said. I built it as an aide. My boning still needs plenty of practice even with the help of a press. I personnally don't want to turn out cookie cutter holsters that are only made by machines. My hands being on it is what makes it a custom leather work.
  15. Here is the finished holster...again, thanks for the advice.
  16. I would have used fewer bolts but did not have the steel. I used coupling nuts to extend them long enough to used my cordless drill with a 3/4 deep socket. No strain...when they get snug, I move to the next. I don't know how much pressure it generates...but it works. If I guessed...less than 40 ft/lbs on the 1/2" nuts.
  17. Here are a few more photos...forgive the quality (CELL PHONE)
  18. I will try to take a couple more pics and get them on here soon. I have no experience with it but maybe other members could respond. Carl
  19. Very nice and clean. It has good lines and the edges are amazing.
  20. Essentially...yes. Here is a link to another thread on this topic. BOOMSTICKHolsters gave a picture tutorial which is awesome. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=346
  21. Here is the link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8633k63/=2oe0cq Thanks, Carl
  22. I should really give Monica the credit. I got the idea from a post where she said she was the weight to form the holster. Before then I thought you needed a hydraulic press. Instead of standing on a board, I thought why not screw it down/bolt it down if the weight/pressure is not critical. Soooo...even though I am sharing my invention, it was an idea brought forth from another Leatherworker member. Thanks, Carl
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