carljc72

Not a problem at all...I normally put in in the press once I get the gun into the holster. I recently switched to Wickett and Craig leather so I only have to soak it a few seconds. I wait until it "looks" like it is about dry. I would think a good rule would be to put it in the press when you would normally start forming by hand. I leave it in the press for at least 10 minutes, although I have left it for a couple of hours (during a 12 year old's emergency). So far no side effects. I put plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) laid flat on the rubber sheets if I have already dyed the outside of the holster just in case it bleeds a little. I do not have a ton of experience so I am sure other members may be able to share a little more insight. Carl

Ray, I use it on every holster now (a whopping 2 or 3 a week). I like it because when I use the little press, I can still answer to "honey, can you come here?" or "dad, I locked myself out", etc... It is only a convenience for me since it is just a hobby for me instead of a business. I personally don't consider you old fashioned. I think you know exactly what works for you...and that is just smart. And is far as being automated...no fancy machinery for me...I just can't figure out how to sneak the holster making, bikini models past my wife and into the work area. LOL

Just to give an update...the blue was covered up by the black dye just as Woolfe and Monica said it would. Thank you ladies and gents...as always I feel well guided. I truly don't know what I would do without this forum. Carl

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?a...st&id=27452 I hope that is the correct link. Carl

Here is a press (poor man's version) I made for forming holsters. It is not hydraulic nor does it take up too much space in my tiny basement. I am sure you could modify this to be sturdier but so far it is working out great. I used one piece of 3/4 plywood that was 2'x4' cut into 4 pieces 16"x12". I then glued them together in pairs and drilled 6 holes. I used 8" carriage bolts and a small supply of 1/2" washers as spacers and then bolted the carriage bolts to the bottom boards. I added the two 12" squares of gum rubber and then dropped the top down over the rubber. I used 1/2" coupling nuts so they would be long enough to run them up and down with my cordless drill with a deep socket. The double thickness plywood does flex a little when tightened down with a holster in place, but does not cause any issues. If you had access to steel plates you could use them instead. This was built for about $100 including the rubber from McMaster Carr ($70). It fits underneath my work bench so is perfect for tight work spaces. Carl

Thanks everyone your help and advice. I also talked to Rings today and they said mineral spirits would remove the remaining dye on the gun. Thanks again, Carl

What does everyone do to prep their blue guns before use? I used one yesterday, for the first time, and when I removed it from the holster the inside of the holster is 40% blue. How do I prevent this from happening? Am I going to have to wrap it in Saran Wrap? Can it be treated/paint removed? Uggggggggghhhhhhhh! Can I dye over the blue on the inside of the holster? The holster has already been dyed Angelus black and slicked on the inside. Carl

I am not sure how prices here compare with other sites...KnifeKits.com http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_54_136 Carl

Congratulations. With such a good looking holster, I am sure there will never be a shortage of orders.

Thanks for the info. I was just very impressed by the ingenuity. Carl

I bought Angelus black and light brown. I used them both today for the first time. I don't know what the light brown will look like when dry, but it sure seems very dark right now. What type of prep do you do before dipping (or spraying for those who use an airbrush)?

Nice job Monica...on the holster and the casting. May I ask what the casting kit costs? Thanks, Carl

Troop, your customer is going to be happy. I like the basketweave...nice job.

I give it 2 thumbs up. Very clean and the edges are SHARP. Carl

+1 to Bronson..I liked it before I read the story as well. Of course I always look at the pics first...lol. Tell Darci to keep up the good work. The knife rocks too. Carl

I think Fiebings alcohol based dyes stiffen the leather. I try not to dye the whole thing unless I absolutely have to. I do just what you said. I only dye the inside before stitching. Carl

Would that work...? It would add length but would it give the correct profile? Carl

Nice job on the belt. I have been putting off making one because of the hand stitching. How long did it take to hand stitch it? Carl

That is one cool design. I love the rear snap. Carl

Thank you both. I appreciate the info and the vote of confidence. I was just not sure how the edge would come out with 2 different materials glued together. The shark is ordered and hopefully on the way. I will post a pic when I am done (that is if it looks ok...lol).

I recently made the holster below for a friend. He would like another in commander length and would like me to add shark to the mouth reinforcement as well as the straps. Do I glue the shark to the backing leather, then cut it to shape and size, and then edge it? Do I burnish in the normal steps as I would for leather? Or...does the shark need to wrap around the leather and the edges hide underneath (does not sound like a good idea for the straps...maybe for the mouth reinforcement)? Since this is just a hobby for me, I would like to keep the trial and error to a minimum. I would also like the edges to look good/clean. HELP I am scared...lol Thanks in advance, Carl

Beautiful work...I love the Eastern Diamondback. Did you harvest yourself or do you have a supplier for that? Thanks, Carl

I like it. Don't tell anyone that that was a mistake around the trigger guard...call it a design element...Nice work. Carl

I would have a hard time explaining to my wife that I burnt the house down making a holster...lol

I like it too. Very nice...your customer will be happy. Carl