Mablung

Can’t search the forum very easily while on my phone, but there’s a thread where JLS Leather, a member here, posted a guide to making patterns for pistol holsters. There’s also a good video from Andrews Leather here. I used a combination of the two to make my last holster (which I need to post on here). Found JLS Leather’s stuff in my saved files on my phone. Holster_Theory.pdf PancakeLayout.pdf

Ha! That explains why it looked like a mix: it was. I’m going to borrow that technique, because it really does give some greater depth. I like the look.

Terrific. Really looks good. Did you stamp or carve the initials?

I have used a cheap paintbrush to reduce the effect of brushing out the antique paste. It’s not a perfect solution, as some is still brushed out, but to a lesser degree.

Have you read the other replies? You’ve posed a fairly binary question, when the answer is really, “It depends.” The answers depend on the weapon, placement on the body, and user preference, not to mention the cut of leather you’re using. 9 oz belly will never work as well for a holster as 6 oz shoulder, for instance. By way of example, I usually carry a CZ P-01 Omega with a dot and a spare mag, all AIWB (i.e., up front inside my pants). It’s a weighty rig, for the overall dimensions of the firearm. 7/8 works just fine for it. Wouldn’t use less than 6/7. I’m working on an updated design using 8/9 shoulder that will be really tough and will take carving nicely. Do I need it that thick? Not really. But it will be bombproof, which is what I wanted.

You can also get some good specimens on evilBay with some patience, if you have the inclination to do some restoration work yourself. I have a great C.S. Osborne I got on there for $58 including shipping. It needed to be sharpened, but the handle and ferrule are in great shape (slightly loosened with my use, due to my tendency to use too much pressure when cutting), and the restoration work on the edge was fun. Cuts like a dream now. Anyway, eBay can be good, but Bruce Johnson is the best if you want something already put into good working order.

Made another pair of moccasins the other night, when I couldn’t sleep. Frontier Bison from Tandy. I’m a big fan. I still need to adjust the toe profile to turn in less abruptly at the big toe, but it’s getting there. Same for getting the sides of the vamp to come up a bit higher and tighter—I just need to adjust the angle of the pattern and the taper of the heel pieces, I think. I’m much more pleased with these than with my other efforts.

This right here seems to make the difference. Two of my favorite briefcases are down and out because strap ring billets were stitched across, nicely perforated, and then broke under tension. I’ve quit stitching across the width of even my knife sheath belt loops for this reason.

Never heard of that, either, and don’t think it would work. If you truly soak the leather with oil, you will create an irredeemable, soggy mess.

A good thought. If I get a machine any time soon, I’ll add that in. Still doing all hand stitching at the moment, though, and that would add a tremendous amount of stitching.

Thank you. Fortunately, I don’t have to worry about my dog being stolen, but if I did, I’d definitely do just my phone number. My dog loves all people and probably would go off with someone who approached her. Unless someone broke into my house. I don’t think she would be okay with that.

Thanks! It’s a single layer of latigo, a pre-cut strap I bought at Tandy. I think it’s 12 oz. Might be more like 16 oz.

Recently I made my first piece for sale. A random guy stopped me on my way out of Lowe’s (big chain hardware store in the US, for those not familiar) to ask me where I got my dog’s leash, since I had her with me. When I told him I made it myself, he immediately asked how much I would charge to make one. I worked up a quote and made him a leash very similar to my dog’s leash. Sadly, I took only this one picture of it before handing it over. Next project was a collar for my dog with her name carved in it. Very simple, no backgrounding, and somewhat messy lettering—definitely doesn’t hold a candle to what I’ve seen on here that I used for ideas; but it’s adequate for my uses.

I doubt the seams would cause terrible annoyance to the foot, as long as you tighten the stitches adequately.

Are you making stitch down or lasted construction?

All of the above. Thinner leather will stretch more easily, some kinds of hides stretch more easily than others, and the belly will stretch way more than the back (as an example). The "All About Leather" subforum might be helpful to you.

Thanks. I may need to adjust my design and then make sure I can really crank the lacing down. Just gotta be careful that I don't damage the stock (lightweight polymer bolt gun I bought for humping all over the hills).

Does yours shift under recoil? Made a crude one for my bolt action and laced it down tight, but it still shifted under recoil. Trying to figure out if I need to just anchor the laces around the sling stud or if I need to change my construction method.

If he wants the holster to be something of a replica of a holster in use at the time the original pistols were used, you’re correct. Holsters like that are not “boned” (wet-molded to the creases and contours of the pistol), unlike most holsters made now.

Thanks. I walk my dog on head halter (which she hates) rather than the collar, solely because she responds way better to the halter than the collar, so I doubt it would get stretched too much in my use. I've got a 8/9 oz. strap blank part of which I plan to use, and I'll probably line it with a piece of 3/4. Back to the OP...

Not to hijack the post, but what would you recommend for a GSD on up? Planning to make a collar for my Husky/GSD mix and haven’t dialed in how heavy it needs to be.

Looks like you did a pretty good job. Nice work; I like it.

Thanks for the tip. I re-wax occasionally but don't know that I've ever just dropped the strands to let them relax back to normal. I'll try that.

I use stuff like that as a cover for a cheek riser (though most of the time I’m the only one at the range maintaining a cheek weld). Advertise that function with it and you may get some additional buyers.

It may not be expert, but that scene is recognizable for what it depicts and shows a good sense of depth. Getting the depth and perspective right is, in my opinion, critical for good art. That looks like a coaster round—am I right about that? If so, it’s a small surface and not easy to work with. Even if it’s bigger, that still looks good to me, frankly. I rather like it.