Saddlebag

Next time I open my mouth about a saddle problem would someone please clamp it shut. Just got a saddle in with frozen leathers. I've wetted, slathered oil on them and finally by swinging them side to side did I get them to move. I need to go to church tomorrow and beg forgiveness for my language. Gotta nurse the knuckles a little too.

A warranty is usually good for workmanship, not a horse flipping over on it. That isn't normal wear and tear. I had a saddle by Western Rawhide with a Lifetime guarantee on the Ralide tree. The tree cracked at the stirrup bars because the seat screw on both sides had been driven in too close to the slot. I called WR to inquire about them honoring the guarantee. It was decided they would but labor would be charged at $65 hr and that was 20 years ago. Yet they had assembled the saddle. It was their doing. The saddle wasn't worth it. I actually had three come in from WR with the same problem.

Hey guys, had another AHA moment today. While trying to deal with a bad case of bronchitis for the past few days my horse's water buckets froze solid. I don't normally let this happen but if I bend over I start marathon coughing bouts. While leaving the house I noticed the plastic tobaggan which has sides, leaning up against the railing. This is where the AHA hit me. At the fence I slid it backwards partway under the fence with my foot, moved the pipe from the hydrant and voila, a new water container. Any leftover was easily emptied without my having to bend over. The tobaggan is now outside the fence waiting for the next watering.

I was finally able to enlarge the pic and there was Simco's tell tale flower stamp in the middle of the horn. My Simco dates from the 60's and the only identification was on the leather keeper saying Simco and 338. This style went back to the 50's I know for sure- the new low cantle.

After the leather is completely dry I give it a good wipe down with turpentine, until the rags stop turning black. When it's dry I will then saddlesoap. And yes, a deglazer needs to be used before applying dye or it will appear patchy. I'll have to try to locate vinegaroon and give it a try.

TexTan has always stamped a steer head into the lower fender. Their info always appeared behind the cantle during the 60s and 70s. The piecrust horn trim has me doubting this saddle is a Tex Tan. (I could be wrong). The design of the forks, seat stitching. have me leaning toward Big Horn. Big Horn used a Longhorn fender stamp altho this might predate their use of such.

Some makers stamp the skirt up under the seat jockeys.

I used a hot stamp machine to put lettering on the spines of books. The heat activated and transferred the foil. For just stamping leather do you need the heat? The machine I used was pricey.

There's a gal in Ocala that needs a cut in the soft panels of her saddle repaired. I don't think a patch would work because it flexes. Is there someone in Ocala who is adept at doing the baseball stitch who could help her out?

Nice to meet you, Patricia. Your saddle will be a wonderful challenge. Will you be posting a few pics as the work progresses?

Got the leathers dampened, still didn't want to come free. I was wishing I had a come-along. By flipping the saddle upside down it was easier to redampen the leathers and dribble a little neetsfoot oil. I let it set for about 15 min, and finally they came free. Thanks And just think, some people have a romantic notion about saddle work

I punch the holes all the way through as I was never told to do it otherwise and I got some good "larnin" from a very knowledgeable leather worker/saddlemaker.

I do it as dbusarow described. It's the best way when doing two-needle stitching.

I turn my work to back track but stitch very close beside my stitching as I don't want the needle piercing the thread and weakening or breaking it. I bring the top thread to the back, snip and add a drop of carpenter's glue.

Reminded me of copper punching to reveal an intricate pattern. With the stitching that close do you not find it weakens the leather? That would be my concern. Your work is beautiful.

It can depend on how much the hide was waxed and polished at the tannery.

With two-needle stictching fingers on both hands can wind up sore. I wound up cutting the tips off my old leather work gloves, I prefer to use this style of stitching on certain pieces of harness, it one thread breaks the other holds, unlike the chain stitch of the awl or a machine. For pushing a stubborn needle through I wear a sailor's palm on my thumb. Tandy sells them altho I made my own from scrap leather and a penny.

If you haven't ordered one, contact Jack Leighton in Alberta at www.leightons.ca Jack is a machinist and is familiar with these old pelters. He likes to refurbish them. He's usually fairly prompt when answering emails.

I bo't my Union Shoe (identical to Pearson) from Jack Leighton almost 10 years ago, with the huge flywheel and treadle. With the micrometer setting I can refleece saddle skirts precisely in the original holes. The machine is awesome. The Nova Scotia machine is a bargain even with shipping. What's great with Jack is should I need a part or advise he can find it or make it and is very helpful. Whatever machine Jack is selling it's because he's a machinist and believes in the product.

OK, now for the reverse. How do some of you folks free up stirrup leathers that have been bent around the tree for 10 years and will not budge?

I'm glad this trick is of benefit to others. While I was trying to figure out a better/easier way to string leathers I knew I needed something slippery, like plastic. Lo and behold an empty tall yogurt container was sitting on the counter staring at me. I had a huge AHA moment and cut a strip of plastic from it. Scrounged around and found another. The curl in the plastic is also helpful and for any yogurt lover, replacements are cheap.

With this saddle I'd have considered making new fenders and leathers and given the remainder a good cleaning, maybe adding some strings and leather conchos.Be sure to keep and mark the straps that held your cinch rings. If you are replacing the straps you will need the exact length to help position the rings correctly.

I'd stay with the star conchos if you can find replacements like the originals. Instead of going with the new ones I'd use leather conchos until you can find what you want. The newer conchos are thin and too shiney to suit this saddle.

Cowgirl. Your saddle originally would have had leather bound stirrups, tooled on one side and plain on the other.

I wouldn't completely give up on this saddle as it gives you an opportunity to experiment with different techniques on different areas and learn from the results.