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Saddlebag

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Everything posted by Saddlebag

  1. I tried this but didn't know to degrease the steel wool. I poured and strained half the mix but it appears black in the jar. When I dip the brush in and apply it it looks like water, yet the blackening begins almost immediately. The remainder is a dark reddish brown with rusted bits in the bottom. I plan on straining that today and see what it does. When I worked in book/document repair/conservation tea was an integral part of antiquing new paper.
  2. Perhaps see if Jack Leighton at www.leightons.ca might be interested in buying this machine. Jack is a machinist and loves to refurbish these old pelters.
  3. ValleyEquine, I pm'd you but not sure if it's in the right place. It allows comments and the section said About Me.
  4. To restitch the cantle an awl helps reopen the holes. Use a short needle along with pliers to pull it thro underneath. Push the awl in and follow it with your needle to come back up as you won't be able to see.

  5. To reattach your skirts use a brass flat head screw in the gullet, then nails with a small head whereever you pulled staples. Since your rigging isn't attached to the skirt nothing will be pulling on it as with in-skirt rigging. If you haven't monkeyed with the cinch rigging it might be best left alone unless you feel is really needs some attention. It can't be lopsided with the oth...

  6. You're also missing the rod and pedal for raising and lowering the presser foot.
  7. I'll pm you with a few days to help you. I'm short of time right now.

  8. Glycerin soap is good. If you decide to have someone refleece the saddle you will have a choice of synthetic (no shrinkage) and genuine sheep skin/wool. Before anyone does anything to it inquire as to how the new fleece will be sewn and if the original holes will be used. I've seen them with new stitch lines and to me it devalues the saddle. My machine can be set to use the original holes.
  9. Contact Jack Leighton at www. leightons.ca to see what his cost for a shuttle is. Jack is a machinist and a wizard with these old machines. In 2001 my BU machine cost $200 to ship.
  10. Something you need to consider. No maker would spend the extra time and money to make a saddle with all the extras this saddle has without it being of decent quality. At least not back when this one was made. I even suspect it has a rawhide covered tree.
  11. You are likely in for the long haul so pull up a chair and get comfortable and arm yourself with a soft toothbrush and toothpicks. Cleaning the saddle likely won't loosen the hardened soap but it's a good start, using the toothbrush. Don't scrub or you will bring up a nap and you don't want that. What doesn't let go, get out your toothpick and work it out bit by bit. Can you post a pic of the underside? Remove the cantle and pommel screws and washers and clean under them and add new ones. It's amazing the difference 20 cents worth of screws and washers make to the saddle's appearance.
  12. Bob I've had two good ropers (still have one) with inskirt rigging. As previously mentioned it's when someone starts cutting corners. I seldom see a factory made saddle with the quality of skirts that were used 30 years or more. Those older saddles were heavy and were built to last. With many of the newer saddles I see, the inskirt rigging makes me a little nervous as the leather is thinner or not of good tannage.
  13. I can't thank you folks enough for the above information. It will make the next job a lot easier. I have a small packet of #5 needles and another of #6. Does anyone use that sailor's thunb harness with a etal piece for pushing the needle down? Dang, can't think of the name. I made one and used a new penny. Works slick and sure saves the fingers, that and my small needle nosed pliers that fit the hand nicely.
  14. Neat little rustic cabin. It certainly looks inviting. Mine is just a big modern Atco trailer - well insulated but doesn't have that "come on in" feeling..
  15. What's wrong with my vinegaroon? It sat since the 16th and I tried it today. It looks black in the jar but when I brush it on leather it just looks grubby, as do my fingers. It's not blackening the leather so any degree. My steel wool was almost completely dissolved.
  16. "Leathers as dry as popcorn". You've got that right. I've "cleaned" the leathers for a third time with glycerin saddle soap and they are just now feeling more like they should. The tree appears to be a ralide knock-off only it's black. Can you tell me anything about these? Now that the leathers are reconditioned I'm better able to pull them through the bars. We just had another big dump of snow. Anybody want some-it's free!
  17. I'm all for a nice latigo lining. What I don't like about synthetic fleece for lining a breast collar is that the fleece can make a horse raw because of all the shoulder movement. Natural wool fleece would be better with the latigo better yet.
  18. Check out Egli's Sheep Farm website. They retail all kinds of sheepskin product. You might find some useful ideas. I have one of their hard hat liners with ear flaps that do up under the chin. My head is warm even in the most severe weather. The day I bo't it the temps were -40 with 40 mph winds, meaning skin freezes is less than 5 min.
  19. Joe59, in my case this won't work. When I built my own saddle the leathers were laced, no quick change buckles. When I was a kid a good working saddle was laced and if someone else used the saddle they just had to make do with the length. These fenders are just too long. The owner has short legs and her daughters are even a little shorter.
  20. My machine that sews thro 3/4" thick leather is a big old WW2 by British United Shoe, identical to a Pearson. Doesn't need electricity. One can use either the big flywheel with one hand or switch to the pedals (treadle) if both hands are needed. It's heavy.
  21. Why don't you talk him into your making him a nice pair of roughout chaps? Those will give him some grip.
  22. I have a saddle in in which I will be doing just that. The owner isn't concerned about resale. I will remove the two rivets holding the fender to the stirrup leather at the top, then remove about two inches of fender and reshape the top of the fender making it narrower again near the top and reattach. The fender was up against the tree and still too long. The bottom edge of the fender was at the top of the stirrups so the hobbles weren't able to function as they should.
  23. Thanks Chuck Barrows. My vinegaroon is now percolating on the counter. I started it just this morning as I have a black saddle in that needs some touchups. When it's ready I'll play around with it in an inconspicuous spot.
  24. dirtclod, I did all that. Thanks for the helpful tip anyway. The saddle is new and the owner is petite. I have to get the top of the fenders low enough that I can trim off two inches. Donning my leather winter gloves sure made it easier on the knuckles and provided good grip. After dampening and oiling the leathers I swing them in opposite directions then pull on one leather as I push on the other. The seat jockey wasn't interfering as I put wedges in there instead of trying to undo and damaging the conchos.
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