Saddlebag

Before I dismantle a saddle I need a pic of an older style double position cinch ring so see what I am dealing with. I need the bare naked version, not attached to the skirting. These were popular in the late 50's to maybe mid 60's. It's brass and if I recall about 6" long with slots side by side.

The vinegar mix kills mildew. Does Febreeze?

My 3 machines are a Union Shoe machine for skirting weight leather, an old commercial singer which handles lighter than the Union shoe, and an old pelter of a household machine that modern machines don't compare to. It handles all the lighter weight leathers.

I learned this trick while lacing the hand area of a walking stick. Took the same technique and applied it to my machine stitching. Like you I was not happy with trimmng the last stitch. I apologize for not thinking to share this with others.

I've sprayed 50-50 vinegar water on the wool and rubbed it in with my hands and let dry. Sometimes a second application is necessary. This also removed wood smoke odor from the fleece. When dry I'll give it a good vacuuming.

I don't like Tandy's leather and don't recommend it. It's imported and I doubt by that they means the US (I'm in Canada) The straps will develope hairline cracks when bent, even a little. Dusty Johnson of Loveland Colorado also has a good little book on saddlemaking and not pricey.

In Ontario I obtained oxalic acid at a pharmacy and had to sign for it. I use a 30-40% vinegar water solution to kill mold in leather. I work mainly with saddles then follow up with a good saddlesoaping with a conditioner.

My tack room holds about 9 saddles plus a large amount of tack. A large fan running 24/7 meant mildew was not an issue. An unusually wet summer cause many people to ahve a huge problem with mildew. It seemed no matter where it was stored it was attacked.

A few months after I refused to repair the stirrup leathers, word went about that community that I didn't know how to repair stirrup leathers. Fortunately I have a good clientele who sensed that if I didn't repair them there must be good reason.

Elephant ear cantle. A friend bot one brand spanking new in 1961 and we'd never seen anything like it before.

On a show saddle the silver corner plates should exactly match the stitching or edge of the skirts. What is the tree made of? Why do I suspect fiberglass?

Headstall and saddlebag patterns?

dana, rather than have loopy backstitching why not turn your work and go back along a few stitches. That's how I have to do it with my Union Shoe machine which I wouldn't trade for anything.

When I look at the silver on the rear housing it has been badly applied. The manufacturers often would not put their mark on them as they didn't want anyone identifying it as their work. These saddles are often sold as seconds but the flaws do not affect useablility.

I salvaged 8 vintage conchos with the embossed star. These are 3 x as thick as the cheap modern conchos. They are in very good condition and would look great on a new "old time" saddle or an oldie that's being refurbished. I've come to the conclusion I probably won't be using them and would be willing to part with them.

Bob at Okanagan Saddlery had a set that worked well for saddles. He might tell you where he got them.

They should be used whenever there will be strain on the strap, whereas a cart-type buckle can cut into the leather.

You might find what you are looking in skate supplies as rivets are used to secure blades to the boots.

Ummm, I did a lot of research after my tongue rattled in my head. Mr. John Fallis was gracious enough to email a lengthy explanation of the stirrup system. I get to eat crow and just have to decide how to prepare it.

Bob Land at Okanagan Saddlery does beautiful rawhide lace work on saddles.

After reading all of the above, I can't help but wonder what happens when the horse's back changes, from aging or become more or less fit. During the 23 years I owned a particular horse he used three different trees, all rawhide wrapped.

I'll bet Dusty Johnson could identify those saddles. He's into reconditioning, refurbishing them. Check his site for some beauties that must have weighed a ton.

Can you post a pic or two so the rest of us can see your good luck purchase.

What troubles me is this rigging is designed to damage the saddle. Look at the abrasion to the leather holding the ring. Also putting a large bolt or screw into the tree would weaken the tree. I'd also be concerned that the metal bar that's running under the tree is causing some damage, either to the rawhide or the skirts. Over the years various stirrup adjusters have been used and I think the bar with the slots would work but much closer to the stirrup where a slide adjustment or buckle would be.

Since I work with heavier leather I prefer to not back stitch in case it's crooked. On skirting leather I'll start an inch inside and sew toward the edge. With the needle in the leather I'll lift the presser foot and turn my work. That way my starting stitches are always nice and straight. I finish the same way - stitch almost to the edge, turn my work and stitch the way I came.