FDC

Hi James, We are on a similar adventure as I'm almost finished restoring a 51W56 Singer post bed! The machine has been torn down, repainted and put back together and the table and stand are made. I am going with a servo motor as well. This machine handles DB x 1 needles which go up to 110/18 and have a 1.63 mm shank. I have machined a custom needle bar for my machine that will take 135 system needles and get me up to 125/20 using a 2.00 mm shank. I too want to use this machine to make my own footwear! Singer 51W56 Parts Manual Condensed.pdf 51W Manual.pdf

I've repaired cracked and broken cast iron and it's not magic. If this machine ran as is I would consider it. I'd have recommended TIG welding with cast rod - your BF would have no problem with that. I've taken a flier on three rough leather machines and while each one required pretty serious time to restore them they all work as new. But if actual leather working is your thing, machine restoration isn't leatherworking! Chris

I moved a Landis Model 12 F and it requires some finess and a trailer unless you're commiting to dismantling it, even then there's some heavy luifting for one. It's top heavy to boot. Lean on a friend or two to help and make sure that you have a robust cart. Nice find!

Thanks so much Hans! The 51W56 is back together and working well. I have my belt specs and may just attempt to make a cleated belt when I have a bit of apre time, I have the shop to do it and another member here showed us how to do it so... Thanks for tyour time and expertise!

Just finished restoring a Singer 51W56. I used wool yarn, I had it, it works and it'll last forever. Cost - $0.00.

Thanks for the poke tigweldor! Belt length: 38.75" Tooth count: 62 Tooth spacing: 5/8" Tooth width/belt width: 0.665" (not critical, blallpark will do it!) Tooth length: 0.2325" Tooth depth (metal cleat divided by 2 is 0.08375" but pulley would allow up to 0.125" I greatly appreciate your help! Let me know if there's anything else you need! Chris

If you're in Europe the European Steamed Beech may be more available than maple, it would work just as well.

Hi guys, I have the belt specs at my shop and will get them for you tomorrow, ghe help is appreciated! Are your machines collecting dust Bob or are you using alternative belts? Chris

Hi All! I'm hoping that someone might be able to steer me in the right direction regarding a 62 tooth metal cleared timing belt for a Singer 51W56. The Singer part number is 234003. I am interested in the OEM style belt OR a modern alternative and source please. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chris

Simple maybe, beautiful definitely! Your diamond treatment is slick!

There seem to be any size that you want in my browsing experience. Price depends on the blade spec but less than $6.00 USD for my 50 mm diameter blades and they're 1 mm thick. Sorry for the delay in responding, I'm not sure that I received a notification...

Happy 2025 Tastech! Yes I've sorted this machine out to my liking! Proper thread, thread lube and new awl and needle with a bit of fiddling. I'll never get tired of this machine, it is an industrial work of art so to speak. I have yet to make my first pair of boots but I am picking away at that as well. Too many projects, too lazy at times... Last summer I bought a Landis 5 in 1 to compliment this Model 12 F. It needed a casting repair and a restoration as well and it now looks great. I figured out how to sharpen the stock cutter but imagined a cutter set up using replaceable circular cutters so I machined a new drive shaft and after a couple of attempts have an outboard cutter that can be changed out for a fresh sharp on in seconds. Worth the trouble? Maybe not but it scratched an itch for me! I would love to see some of your footwear if you didn't mind posting some pics!

The machine has to be rigid, it has three drives and lots of adjustability! When you don't have the space none of this matters though does it?

I'm ashamed to pass this on but Ali Express will have these and they'll be inexpensive. I bought some for a machine I was modifying and they were fine. They can also be sharpened which I do as well...

I have a Model 12 F and it is hard to find literature about them. There is a very helpful bootmaker in Oklahoma - Lisa Sorrell and she a a notions and findings shop. She has a lot of vintage LAndis literature that she offers free of charge! She is super helpful!

Contact Techsew, they are extremely helpful! Just keep an eye in your SPAM folder after you reach out...

Thanks for the info Kfd518, much appreciated!

Oh my! That's a beauty! Would you mind telling me where you got the buckle from?

Really fine work! Nicely done!

Oh my! Those are gorgeous, what a great job you did!

I have a 5100, it’s a great machine in my opinion. You can download and/or ask for manuals from Techsew. Go get ‘em they will really help you out! I transported my machine head on a 24” square plywood sheet and strapped it down on the way home. As you found out there’s only one chance to prevent damage and that’s your first chance. I’m no expert but feel free to reach out if you need some help. Ali Express has very inexpensive parts for our machines and while I don’t like to buy Chinese in this instance the money savings is absolutely huge.

Well I’ve finished the refurbish on the Landis and here are a couple pics. The skived leather is saddle skirting. It presented no challenge for the Landis with a sharp blade! I’m going to machine a new cutter shaft and cutter holder that will use disposable rotary blades. This will be the easiest way to have a razor sharp machine all the time.

Thanks for the short dollar sharpener tip! I recently sharpened a Landis rotary cutter and used a shim stack on a water stone. Good outcome but I had to dress the stone to remove a groove. Tedious as well.

I have a Techsew 5100. I’m a novice leather worker. This heavy duty machine has worked flawlessly for me using heavy to light set ups. I’ve run #19 needles and #92 (?) thread on leather, rubber and marine vinyl with good results. The heavy stuff? Not a problem, I’ve sewn 0.80” plastic an it didn’t even register as tough. Likely more machine than most leather workers would ever need unless you’re making sheaths, holsters, saddles and protective equipment. Download the manual and parts list, be curious about how it works and try to get it optimized every chance you get. That’s how to climb up the learning curve in my opinion.

I bought this book and it is useful to me as a novice leather worker. I intend to make my own boots. I’d agree that making footwear is difficult and learning to use the tools of the trade on other projects first makes sense. This has been my route along the process so far. Harry is a talented and interesting guy and quite frankly a good writer! Worth the price!