FDC

I would tackle this problem with a munltimeter...

Well you don't mess around! I too bought an 801 skivver a couple of years ago and it has been challenging to get comfortable with. I would suggest the following to climb up the learning curve faster: Go to YouTube and watch videos about adjusting and using an 801 skivver Label all of the adjustments on your skivver so that you know exactly what they do! Indicate feed direction as well. I just used a fine Sharpie. Make sure that your bell knife is sharp! Make sure that your bell knife is ALWAYS sharp! Set up your machine with each new type of material that you're skivving, it's NOT a "set it and forget it" machine! Using cheap ABS or PVC plumbing parts from a home center make your own vacuum system if your machine doesn't have one already. Dead simple, inexpensive aand prevents offcuts from messing up your skivving. Be patient and expect some frustration as you get it figured out!

Techsew has a Black Friday sale!

I have a Juki 441 cyliner bed clone by Techsew and a restored Singer 51W59 post bed. If I had to have only one it would be the Techsew. The post bed will earn it's keep on my service boot project. I think most leatherworkers would find a cylinder bed to be most useful most of the time compared to a post bed. The 441 clone is a beast and may not be necessary, in fact it may be abit much depending on what work you intend to do!

Nice work! Inspiring me to start my tooled belt project! Beautiful work!

You're where I want to be! Ive been getting ready to make service boots by restoring some machines and equipment and doing other leather projects to get some skills. Did you make your own lasts or use commercial ones? Very nice boots, I'd be happy with them too, excellent workmanship!

Have you adjusted the thread tension in the bobin shuttle? Is the spool oriented correctly in the bobbin?

If it works it's a winner! I just like to start from fresh on some equipment and this Singer certainly deserved the refresh. It is a great machine as you point out!

For the table I laminated Baltic birch for the core. I cut out the necessary features and tweaked to satisfaction. Then I contact cemented Formica to both sides. I bought the plastic edging on Amazon. I welded up the base with 2" square structural tubing and re-used the pedals and mounting plate from the old table. The casters were also Amazon. A little spray gun work and final assembly. Space is always limited so I wanted a smaller than normal table that was ready to roll. I'm happy with the results and table size. I'm not always happy with project outcomes!

I have a "thing" for these old Landis machines. Now I need a 16... I like the safety sandals, they say "This will work out perfectly..." and it sure looks like it did! Nice machine and space!

A beautiful holster for a great side arm!

Hand sewing is another level for sure! I bought it from Tandy, 4 oz "Crazy Horse". It’s interesting and nice to work with. The vinyl lining gives it some body when the bag is done.

After finishing a Singer post bed restoration I wanted to make a Dopp kit bag. I bumbled around on-line and took ideas from a few places but took the time to make my own pattern. First attempt never saw the light of day, second attempt suggested a partially glued in lining instead of floating fabric. So this one has a marine vinyl interior to make cleaning up my exploded toothpaste/shampoo/ shaving cream mishaps easier. Naturally I sewed the loop in upside down with the raw edge up...4.0 required!

I'm not sure what you mean by motor pulley, are you referring to the pulley on the servo motor? If so its stock, 45 or 50 mm I think.

Those are called "levelling casters" and I bought them from an outfit in Chicago many years ago. They come in several sizes, always go as big as you can is my advice. I just checked and Amazon carries them so they are a day away if your use Amazon!

I shim my Landis 5 in 1 skiving blade to split leather up to 1.5" wide. I have machined a top feed wheel with no knurling to eliminate marking on the leather. Works perfectly.

If the 51W55 is similar to my 51W56 you need to be sure that the stitch length adjuster pin at the fly wheel is properly engaged in the drive shaft "thread". The adjuster needs to move in and out. If the flywheel isn't set far enough on the drive shaft (towards the needle) it can prevent proper engagement. The pin in the selector may also be broken or missing... Also there are two rods at the bottom of the machine, I believe that the one towards the rear of the machine controls the stitch length actuation.

I like Hazet screw drivers, especially their slot screw drivers. Made in Germany, not cheap but the best I've come across. Proper profiles, not cheap grinding.

Acknowledged and all true however I had chosen to make a small table and space for a reducer pulley under the top was not really an option. I also tried to get this 51W56 off the ground for as little scratch as possible and that was easiest with aluminum that I had in stock. I slowed down my skiiver as you suggested and I like the results!

Thanks! I did try to think this one through, except for the amount of time it would take...

I have finished my speed reducer pulley for my 51W56. It slips on over the stock flywheel and is fixed there by set screws which fit into the stock flywheels set screw holes. My serve drive to 51W driven ratio is 2.07 to 1 now. It requires 4 1/2" 6061 rod to make.

I was lucky to find this old post bed Singer locally. I have wanted a post bed for up coming boot projects but didn't really want to blow new machine money. Total tear down, fabricated the table and went with a servo motor drive. I will machine up a slip on driven pulley to further slow it down. Thrilled for find a spot in FLA that sold water decals for it. I machined a new needle jbar that will take 135 needles to get me to #20 thread. I enjoy getting to understand these old mechanisms and give respect to the geniuses that created them so long ago.

Hi James, We are on a similar adventure as I'm almost finished restoring a 51W56 Singer post bed! The machine has been torn down, repainted and put back together and the table and stand are made. I am going with a servo motor as well. This machine handles DB x 1 needles which go up to 110/18 and have a 1.63 mm shank. I have machined a custom needle bar for my machine that will take 135 system needles and get me up to 125/20 using a 2.00 mm shank. I too want to use this machine to make my own footwear! Singer 51W56 Parts Manual Condensed.pdf 51W Manual.pdf

I've repaired cracked and broken cast iron and it's not magic. If this machine ran as is I would consider it. I'd have recommended TIG welding with cast rod - your BF would have no problem with that. I've taken a flier on three rough leather machines and while each one required pretty serious time to restore them they all work as new. But if actual leather working is your thing, machine restoration isn't leatherworking! Chris

I moved a Landis Model 12 F and it requires some finess and a trailer unless you're commiting to dismantling it, even then there's some heavy luifting for one. It's top heavy to boot. Lean on a friend or two to help and make sure that you have a robust cart. Nice find!