FDC

The machine has to be rigid, it has three drives and lots of adjustability! When you don't have the space none of this matters though does it?

I'm ashamed to pass this on but Ali Express will have these and they'll be inexpensive. I bought some for a machine I was modifying and they were fine. They can also be sharpened which I do as well...

I have a Model 12 F and it is hard to find literature about them. There is a very helpful bootmaker in Oklahoma - Lisa Sorrell and she a a notions and findings shop. She has a lot of vintage LAndis literature that she offers free of charge! She is super helpful!

Contact Techsew, they are extremely helpful! Just keep an eye in your SPAM folder after you reach out...

Thanks for the info Kfd518, much appreciated!

Oh my! That's a beauty! Would you mind telling me where you got the buckle from?

Really fine work! Nicely done!

Oh my! Those are gorgeous, what a great job you did!

I have a 5100, it’s a great machine in my opinion. You can download and/or ask for manuals from Techsew. Go get ‘em they will really help you out! I transported my machine head on a 24” square plywood sheet and strapped it down on the way home. As you found out there’s only one chance to prevent damage and that’s your first chance. I’m no expert but feel free to reach out if you need some help. Ali Express has very inexpensive parts for our machines and while I don’t like to buy Chinese in this instance the money savings is absolutely huge.

Well I’ve finished the refurbish on the Landis and here are a couple pics. The skived leather is saddle skirting. It presented no challenge for the Landis with a sharp blade! I’m going to machine a new cutter shaft and cutter holder that will use disposable rotary blades. This will be the easiest way to have a razor sharp machine all the time.

Thanks for the short dollar sharpener tip! I recently sharpened a Landis rotary cutter and used a shim stack on a water stone. Good outcome but I had to dress the stone to remove a groove. Tedious as well.

I have a Techsew 5100. I’m a novice leather worker. This heavy duty machine has worked flawlessly for me using heavy to light set ups. I’ve run #19 needles and #92 (?) thread on leather, rubber and marine vinyl with good results. The heavy stuff? Not a problem, I’ve sewn 0.80” plastic an it didn’t even register as tough. Likely more machine than most leather workers would ever need unless you’re making sheaths, holsters, saddles and protective equipment. Download the manual and parts list, be curious about how it works and try to get it optimized every chance you get. That’s how to climb up the learning curve in my opinion.

I bought this book and it is useful to me as a novice leather worker. I intend to make my own boots. I’d agree that making footwear is difficult and learning to use the tools of the trade on other projects first makes sense. This has been my route along the process so far. Harry is a talented and interesting guy and quite frankly a good writer! Worth the price!

As a fellow Canadian I gotta say that that is not going to end well as a purchase! There are similar ads with Walmart and other recognized companies selling things that they don’t sell. When you really dig into it or god forbid contact the seller it all goes to pot. AliExpress will sell these machines and they will be the real deal. The question is have you saved a red cent once shipping, duty and reality are all paid for? Just my two cents.

Noooooooo! Save it!

I added one on my Techsew 5100 as a Chinese import (shame) EPS was cheap cheap. You have to adjust your servo settings and there’s not a lot of readily available info out there but you can do it. Was it worth it on a slow machine like mine? Sometimes. Would I recommend it to someone else? Acquiring knowledge costs money and time, in this case the knowledge came at a reasonable price so yeah, try it.

That can be the case for sure. Just not here as I used dye to check my work after being careful with pre and post heating as well as laying in a good bead. Cast is indeed a bit tricky.

Truth is it’s way faster to clean up the fractured face than make it straight in this instance. The curve also had more surface area to weld which is stronger. Once I had milled a piece of old cast to use it took me less than 10 minutes to sand the casting fracture and profile the filler piece and bevel both!

Home Depot for ABS or PVC plumbing fittings and some screws! So inexpensive. Having used my 801 with and without a vacuum I can say that with a vacuum is my preference without a doubt.

You’d just have to show me that holster and my hands would be in the air!

Of course I did this on the hottest day of the week! I’ve seen some of that engine repair work that you mention, intense to say the least. I pre-heated with a torch and post heated with a heat gun set up. No fatal “tink” heard. Yet…

Thanks! I certainly have had welds not turn out as sweetly. A lathe and a knee mill will get you a lot of places won’t they? I’m fortunate to have this one for sure.

Had to have on of these to go with my refurbished Model 12 F. The chassis casting was broken. I repaired it using a broken cast piece from an ancient Taylor spot welder then I welded it using cast iron rod and my TIG welder. It came out better than I deserved. It’s in prime as of this evening. Excited to have it all together. Have to make a couple springs for it still… Will I ever work leather? Not if I keep buying cool vintage iron machines! Half the fun is the acquisition and road trip to pick up these gems.

Hi, I’m looking for a Landis 25 in good to great shape, good being “complete”. I don’t mind restoring a tired looking unit. I am willing to travel to pick it up depending on the distance from Ontario Canada. US machines would be fine with me, I like road trips. Chris

It is so easy and inexpensive to just screw a vacuum port to the bottom of an 801 skiver and have what you want. Took me 10 minutes and I use my shop extractor as a vacuum. I would never pay for a vacuum unit when shop vacs and extractors are around us everywhere!