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Showing results for tags 'finishes'.
Found 17 results
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Guys & gals, I have been wanting to try Fiebings Pro Dye, cause it looks like good stuff. My question is: What Seal or Top coat sealer options do I have? Most all top coat/sealers will freeze. So that wont be a option till spring. Can I use the aerosol Fiebings Leather Sheen or the aerosol Fiebings Saddle Lac? What options do I have? Thanks any & all help will be appreciated. -
I recently made a plague doctor mask in 3/4 vegtan and painted it with several coats of Angelus white paint. I see that Angelus makes its own finishers (I'm eyeing the satin), but was curious if folks have their own favorite to use? This is my first painted piece; I'm used to dyeing stuff. This is a costume piece that will be worn indoors, and mainly needs to be protected from convention wear-and-tear. It doesn't have to stay pristine, but I don't want it to get prematurely dinged up, either. Photo included, with bonus cat (his name is Dexter and he is my "assistant").
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Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated. -
For anyone who might be interested, it's not too late sign up. I still have a few seats left in some of the workshops and I will be accepting walk-ins, first come first serve for any remaining seats. Contact the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal for more info (715) 362-5393. This is GREAT SHOW in a beautiful facility. Feb 21-26. Don't miss your chance to see a great variety of vendors under one roof. And be sure to stop by my booth, located in the foyer, and say hello! See you there!!! y
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Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.
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Hello leatherworkers I have for the last year or so been using the Eco-Flo Professional Finishes and have had great results. I have just brought some Eco-Flo (standard) Finish and I am am not getting the same result. Before I was getting a nice smooth clear finish but now I am left with a poor finish that has a kind of white powdery finish. I am currently using the Eco-Flo water based dyes and find the colours good and have had no problems with the dye coming out even after several year heavy use. I have this week also brought some Fibbing's oil dyes and plan on testing these. My main question is can anyone suggest a good proofer/fisishing product that will work well with Eco-Flo water based dyes and Fibbing's oil dyes? I am making wallets, notebook cases, keychain ect. Also if anyone suggest a good proofer/fisishing product that will work well with tannery dyed leather? I am making handbag/satchels. Thanks for you Help. Dave
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I'm almost finished with a knife sheath that I'm not really happy with, but the knifemaker likes it. It's got an iguana skin insert and I made the window a little too big; it's in the curve of front to back. I padded it before I put the liner in but I don't like how that worked either. Still -- I'll do another and it'll be better, right? My question is -- how do I finish the iguana skin? The top layer of the sheath is 9-10oz vegtan, lined with 2-3oz. I've dyed the leather black and put a light coat of neatsfoot on it this morning. I put a little on the iguana skin too -- it's old and looked a bit dull. Don't know if I shoulda done that or not. I'm going to put some Resolene thinned half with water on the leather -- does that go on the iguana skin too? Thanks.
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I've added a couple of pictures of sheaths I really did shed some blood, sweat and tears working on yesterday. All y'all have been so good with advice -- I think these, especially the wider skinner sheath, have some of the best work I've done. Once I'd stitched and done the edge-burnishing, I swabbed on a good coat of Fiebring's USMC Black leather dye. I let it dry and then rubbed off the powdery residue. (I only get that with the USMC Black and not with brown dyes.) Then another coat of the black dye, and left them hanging overnight, well over 12 hours. Today I rubbed the paraffin into the edges and buffed that. I'm trying different finishes. I don't like the SuperSheen -- makes my leather look like plastic. I have Eco-Flo matte and satin finishes, and they've left streaks on sheaths before. I prefer a lower-gloss finish. Today I tried mink oil that was in the shop from someone else's work. Rubbed it on, let it dry for a couple of hours, rubbed the surface then put it on the buffing wheel, and that's when the black dye started coming off the leather. You can see the patchiness here in the pictures. So -- now what? My partner thought maybe the mink oil acted as a solvent on the dye, but the dye was dry. I know the thread I used yesterday was more heavily waxed than usual and I'm wondering if I transferred some by my fingers and made a resist -- but it didn't show up til I buffed the finish. I'm thinking of trying the homemade finish - got beeswax and vegetable oil to melt it into. The one I saw has vodka in and there's good reason not to keep drinkin' liquor around here -- I'm going to see what I can find about using rubbing alcohol instead.
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I've added a couple of pictures of sheaths I really did shed some blood, sweat and tears working on yesterday. All y'all have been so good with advice -- I think these, especially the wider skinner sheath, have some of the best work I've done. Once I'd stitched and done the edge-burnishing, I swabbed on a good coat of Fiebring's USMC Black leather dye. I let it dry and then rubbed off the powdery residue. (I only get that with the USMC Black and not with brown dyes.) Then another coat of the black dye, and left them hanging overnight, well over 12 hours. Today I rubbed the paraffin into the edges and buffed that. I'm trying different finishes. I don't like the SuperSheen -- makes my leather look like plastic. I have Eco-Flo matte and satin finishes, and they've left streaks on sheaths before. I prefer a lower-gloss finish. Today I tried mink oil that was in the shop from someone else's work. Rubbed it on, let it dry for a couple of hours, rubbed the surface then put it on the buffing wheel, and that's when the black dye started coming off the leather. You can see the patchiness here in the pictures. So -- now what? My partner thought maybe the mink oil acted as a solvent on the dye, but the dye was dry. I know the thread I used yesterday was more heavily waxed than usual and I'm wondering if I transferred some by my fingers and made a resist -- but it didn't show up til I buffed the finish. I'm thinking of trying the homemade finish - got beeswax and vegetable oil to melt it into. The one I saw has vodka in and there's good reason not to keep drinkin' liquor around here -- I'm going to see what I can find about using rubbing alcohol instead.
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This is the first sheath I've made in full since joining. So my stitching holes are made with an awl, and I use hidepounder's edge technique, and I read a lot about finishes. I have an almost half-full bottle of the old formulation of Super Sheen, which I haven't used before and prolly won't again cuz it's too shiny and looks like vinyl instead of leather. I tried using neutral shoe polish over it to dull it down, but it didn't work. Largely, I'm pleased with this. The stitching holes didn't go through straight though, and the B-side is wobbly. The stamping is more ornate than I like or usually do, but I completely misjudged how much room I needed for a pair of leaves, one of my new favourite stitch-line trims. It doesn't have a belt loop because the woman who's getting it doesn't wear belts and wants a knife to carry in pocket or purse. Can't think of anything else, but if you have any suggestions for improvement for next time (I got a lot of good ones on the stitch line on the reverse side on the another forum here already), please give them!
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Hey guys I have a project I'm working on and I need some input. I'm making a leather chess board and I am trying to distinguish the white square from the black and I plan on using acrylic resolene to keep the white squares from accepting the black paint. Only I'm not sure whether to oil the board first then use the acrylic then paint and gloss? The guy at Tandy by my place said acrylic and water based paint won't work over neatsfoot very well. So I purchased an oil based paint to substitute. Should I still skip the oiling process? I will take a few pictures of my work and items on hand. Could anyone give insight to help with order of process? I don't want to ruin the project. It is a gift to my brother in law. Thanks a bunch. P.s. I have already used gum tragacanth on the back and burnished the edges.
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Hey guys I have a project I'm working on and I need some input. I'm making a leather chess board and I am trying to distinguish the white square from the black and I plan on using acrylic resolene to keep the white squares from accepting the black paint. Only I'm not sure whether to oil the board first then use the acrylic then paint and gloss? The guy at Tandy by my place said acrylic and water based paint won't work over neatsfoot very well. So I purchased an oil based paint to substitute. Should I still skip the oiling process? I will take a few pictures of my work and items on hand. Could anyone give insight to help with order of process? I don't want to ruin the project. It is a gift to my brother in law. Thanks a bunch. P.s. I have already used gum tragacanth on the back and burnished the edges.
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I am working on refurbishing my first pair of Chaps and I want to know the Best way of Dye/staining them back to the original colour (or close to) They are a pair dark brown riding chaps, and where the inner calf/thigh touch the saddle the colour has faded (yellowy) (rubbed away). I would like them coloured back to dark brown, BUT when riding in them I don't want the colour to rub off onto the saddle... ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -
Just ran across a book cover that was bought for me about 20 years ago, so, I am looking for some help from the old hands around here. It is veg tanned and stamped and laced, in a natural color. The finish is glossy and has been a little sticky ever since it was new, like if you put something paper under it some of the the paper stuck. I just tried to take some of the stuck on paper off with rubbing alcohol and it REALLY made it very tacky. The question I have is what type of finish is it and can I remove it and re-finish it with something else, if so what else. As I am just getting into leather after a long long time I'd like to save this if I could. Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated. Keep the sharp side down! Paul -
Hello all! Working on a pair of drinking horns with a friend for Dragon-Con. Nothing too elaborate per say. I am looking for several things. 1: How to remove the processing smell, etc. Was told fill it with Guiness for a day and that would solve the issue. 2: Looking for a food safe sealant for the insides.... is this even necessary? 3: What would work well to seal the outside while keeping a natural appearance. I am thinking a good oil and sanding/buffing or even a rouge. Anything will be helpful and appreciated. I will also be working to update this post on progress and ideas. https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10443366_273651072814784_2791506164595326049_n.jpg -
Greetings, The search tool on this forum has proven to be an invaluable resource for me as I prepare to jump into leatherworking. Thank you all for the time and sharing of knowledge. I am looking to purchase dyes and finishes for my first round of leathercraft projects. I will be making a wallet to start, using 3/4oz veg tanned leather. I would like some of the quirks/imperfections in the leather to show through the final product; using woodworking as a comparison, I want the look of a deep stain as opposed to multiple coats of paint. Looking at the Feibings line, do you recommend I purchase Regular Dye or Oil Dye? What sort of finish do you recommend for wallets? Does the type of dye determine the type of finish? When are conditioners or a product like Bick-4 used? Cheers!
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I have used the Fiebings Leather sheen, Super sheen and Saddle lac. I am concerned about using any of these products on this gig because of the heavy use of the flap bending back and forth regularly. I dont want cracking. Can I get away with buffing out the dye and applying Neutral shoe polish or will the polish make it rub? I have buffed it to the point where it is not rubbing now without any sealer. The guy does not want a shinny lacquer like finish. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Alex
