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Showing results for tags 'oil dye'.
Found 9 results
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I have read that people will wait anywhere from 20 minutes to 36 hours for their pro dye to dry before applying finish. I know a lot can depend on your environment and application method, but I can't imagine that environment and application method will make the drying time go from minutes to several hours. I cut my oil dye 50/50 with denatured alcohol and I apply it with a wool dauber. I usually do 2 coats, but sometimes I do 3. How long more or less should I be letting the dye dry before applying finish? -
Strap on the side of the oil good helper, not only can hold the flat strap drum strap can also be securely clamped. Movable chuck, 360 ° rotation Product information： The strap clamp chuck is made of aluminum alloy with anodized surface. Some parts are made of stainless steel, with excellent rust resistance. The base, bracket and swivel handle are made of black walnut. Weight of strap clip: 550g Packed weight: 700g Package size (LxWxH): 23 x 13 x 16cm/9 x 5.1 x 6.3 inch Learn More：https://www.diylea.com/products/handcrafted-strap-clips Email: support@diylea.com
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Hello everyone! I know that colors change after time and in the sunlight. But recently I discovered a huge color change after exposing a leather item in the sunlight. It was dyed with fiebings professional oil dye. The color I was using was was 'light brown'. Because I dyed it 3 times it was appearing dark brown. After it was dry the leather was very stiff/hard and I applied a very little amount of fiebings neatsfoot oil (compound). After this I really liked the color and softness of the leather. I then finished with 'tan kote'. I used that item for about 3 weeks and everything was fine. But after one day it was laying in the direct sunlight for a while, the color turned very light, it was almost yellow. But the natural 'crinkles' of the leather remained dark. I thik it may have something to do with the oil, but I dont know. If someone once experienced the same or has an idea he/she wants to share, I would be very happy! Thanks, kimoribj -
Yesterday I applied two coats of Fiebings light brown oil dye--reduced with denatured alcohol at 1 to 1.5 ratio (dye to alcohol). It turned out beautiful on my practice scraps of the same leather, but very streaky on the piece (I'm making a travel bag btw). However, the same two coats look great on the straps from Springfield Leather (see below). The bag itself is leather from Tandy. I did wet form the bag and set in the sun for around 30 minutes, so I'm wondering if I underestimated how much this would dry out the bag? Does it simply need more coats? I did wet the piece before staining, but not heavily, and allowed to dry. Any and all help appreciated! Thanks! http://tinypic.com/r/8z4tbd/8 http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6ztw1i&s=8 -
Hi all, I just placed an order on turtlefeathers.net for a few Angelus dyes.... turns out I've ordered acrylic paints by mistake. I'm alright with that as I will be able to use them at some point but I am wondering if I will be able to cover them with Fiebing's USMC Black? I am going to be airbrushing flames into a wallet design and am planning on using a paint brush to do some detailed dying between the flames with the USMC Black. This will cover up the over-spray and give me a nice clean image (hopefully...). I just need to know if the dye will actually cover the acrylic or not. If it won't I'm going to place an order for the colored dyes with Springfield... As always, thanks for the help. -
Hello all, my name is Brandon and I am still a newbie. I have a problem that I would like to have some help with. I was asked to make a black leather skeet pouch. The pouch came out great first of all. I might have done everything wrong though. I cut out all the pieces and punched the stitching holes. I laced it up with a double loop stitch and then I dyed it. The first coat made it look purple and you could still see some of the raw leather peaking through so I decided a second coat would be good. I read somewhere on here that you dye your project after you are done stitching, so thats what I did. Normally I only use brown dyes and have never had to wipe off any excess. I just put on the coat of Carr and Day and Martin Belvoir leather balsam. So this is what I did with the black oil dye. Unfortunately after applying it with the tan sponge it comes with, it was totally black. This worried me since the skeet pouch will be on a belt and rubbing off on this guys pants. So I got out some rags and started buffing the pouch................well I'm about 15 rags in and it is still just coming off. I don't know if it is because the balsam is releasing it or it just has that much extra dye on it. Please give me some advice. Should I just keep buffing and use a different sealer?
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From the album: Serendipity Designs
Handmade veg-tan bodice with leather boning, finished with carved celtic knots in shades of oil dye.© ©
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From the album: Serendipity Designs
Custom "War Belt" designs for larping or reenactment armor. Tooled, stamped, then colored in various oil dyes and finished with Feibings Aussie. (2013)© ©
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Viking "Champion" War Belt and cuff set
serendipitydesigns posted a gallery image in Our Leatherwork Galleries
From the album: Serendipity Designs
Custom "War Belt" design and Small Bracers for larping or reenactment. A custom design we put together and tooled, then colored in with Feibings alcohol blue and Oil-dye brown (2011)
