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Looking for quality hardware,brass,stainless steel, brass plated and nickle plated from North &Judd, Mast Harness, Walsall and Weaver. We are looking to downsize our inventory. We have been in business for 115 years and we have way to much stuff! We have buckles, snaps, rings, harness parts, webbing, snaps, chicago screws, leather dye, leather scraps. Prices are cheap! You name it we probably have it! Send me a note and I'll be happy to help you.

I have a Sailrite Ultra Feed LS1 for sale at £1200 in the UK.This machine is as new, it is the premium version with the heavy flywheel, binding attachment, flight case and all the other gubbins advertised.In addition, there are over 60 needles ranging from medium to heavy and also leather, two feet, magnetic and swing arm guide, thread stand, light, light flywheel for faster sewing, manual and toolset.It comes with 12000 meters of thread in various colours and a bunch of bobbins. This is a beast and punches through almost anything you can fit under the foot. Sailrite has a whole range of videos on this machine and each machine flys out of the shop. It is fitted to work in the UK and can be tried here in the workshop. I bought it for canvas work and dog harnesses which I'm no longer making. It can also be adapted to work by hand if power is an issue making this an ideal mobile workhorse. It is heavy so can be collected in person or you can arrange for a courier. IMG_5390.MOV IMG_5382.MOV

I have got a few projects, that include heavy webbing, and I like to use a heavyer thread, than my sewing machine can handle. What is the best way? So I consider using: 1) Saddle stich. Then I use make the hole with an awl first. However I still think it can be hard to pull the needles through, and you may penetrade a tread with the needle. 2) Use a Speedy Stitcher or Meyer Sewing Awl. In this case I need to use needles with no leather point, because they can cut the webbing. I don't think you can buy needles for the Meyer Sewing Awl without a diamon point. And then you will have to grind the point to get rit of the sharp edges of the needle. 3) Use a jerk Needle (I have seen them with more names: hook needle, Union lock needle, Mckay needle). I have got a cheep one from china: Cheep jerk needle ebay I am not that satisfied. The handle is small. The needles have leather point and the sharp edge on the hook tends to catch webbing fibres when I pull the needle out. I look forward for your help on what to do.

The following Webbing and Brass line 24 Snaps are for sale. Quantity and pricing are posted on the pictures. Please Note: you need to send a PM MESSAGE, leatherworker.net notifies us via email as we do NOT check the postings daily. 3" Wide natural Cotton Webbing, .125" thick Brass Line 24 Snaps Let us know what quantity you are wanting so we can let you know the cost with shipping. Thanks for looking

Is it possible to sew mil-spec nylon webbing to 10-12oz english bridle leather by hand? If so how do I go about it and what needles and thread would be best? I'm also looking into sewing machines, is a Cobra 4 too much for what I'm trying to do?

I have an 8oz veg tan utility strap project in the design phase and think the addition of a webbing liner to one section of the strap will do me good but I don't know where to start with that. I did a search and didn't narrow it down but I think it would be smart to avoid using pricking/stitching irons to keep from cutting across the webbing fibers so that's where I'm at now - how to and what to use for making my stitching holes? I haven't tried it yet but thought that cementing the webbing down first would help, then starting from the webbing side I could get away with using a small but very sharp scratch awl after marking the stitch spacing on the webbing with a fine marker. The hope is the awl would get through the webbing without butchering it too badly and I would use the same or another awl to open up the hole in the leather side so I can get my needles through. And that brings to my next thoughts - what SPI should I use and what needle/thread? Thanks for you thoughts. EDIT - I plan to use webbing that's on the thinner side. I'm looking at the tightly woven stuff that's almost shiny looking, not the thicker, more coarse looking stuff I usually see on dog collars or cheesy laptops begs etc.