What oz leather, size thread, and dye??

[Jhunter13]

I have made several knife sheaths, belt pocket knife holsters and various other leather crafts, but never a gun holster.  I'd like to make a belt style holster (see pic) but have no idea what thickness leather/thread to purchase - Im using a LU-563 clone for my stiching.  Id also like to dye it black.   Looking for some suggestions for leather to buy, where to buy, thread, dye and anything else I may need.  

 

Thank you!

 

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by Northmount
fixed title

[Dwight]

I would (for my first project) use 7/8 oz leather . . . measured with a micrometer that would be in the .100 to .125 range of thickness.

Tandy Leather Factory will sell you the leather . . . a "single shoulder" will give you plenty of leather to make that holster . . .  and you'll have enough left over to re-do it if you mess up the first try.

The back on that holster is basically flat . . . all the molding is done on the outside piece . . .  and it is kinda hard to get it that well molded without some "work" . . . just be prepared.

Don't allow the muzzle to come out like that . . . the design is seriously a stupid design . . . if the front sight gets hung up while you are trying to defend yourself . . . your next of kin will wind up with that holster after your funeral.  Cut the holster longer to cover the muzzle.

I personally like 346 size thread . . . it hand sews fairly well . . . not sure if your machine will take that thread . . . use a 25 or 26 needle if it will.

Get Feibing Oil dye in the small bottle . . .and a small bottle of the reducer . . . dump em together and use that to dye your holster.  DO NOT get USMC black . . . it is lousy with loose pigment and you will be buffing that thing till July 4th.

Buff it real good . . . finish it with a couple coats of Resolene mixed 50/50 with water using a bristle brush.

It'll be a good holster for  you.

I would personally not cut the bottom front slot . . . as that is a good position to carry . . .  just the way it is pictured . . . it hugs the body well . . .using the bottom slot makes the butt of the gun stick out like you've got a third hand stuck under your shirt.

But have fun . . . make sure to bring the finished product back here for all of us.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bert03241]

tape a 1/8 dowel to the top of the gun to make a path for the front sight to follow in and out. also I like to cut front a little bigger so when glued and sewd the holster has a slight curve to it and hugs the body better, and use a grover on your stitch lines to set the three in a little bit. heres a great video to show you how

 

[Daffy]

Assuming you are going to use the actual firearm for molding, I do, I wrap it with saran wrap and wrap a dowel on the top for relieving the front sight.

The Hank Strange videos with Andrews are very informational, I utilized them alot when getting started.

One other note, I personally would cover the front sight with the leather, protruding out the end of the holster like the picture shows would make it more difficult to draw.

Another personal choice of mine is to line the inside with non chrome tanned pigskin.

[Jhunter13]

Wow.....thanks everyone!!  I appreciate the suggestions and will let you know how it turns out.  

Great point about the dowel rod and front site.  That would have been a lesson learned the hard way.  

[Bert03241]

Can't wait to see your finished Holster