Leather tote bag

[Chux]

So I'm still trying to learn how to machine sew and not having any idea how to upload multiple pictures, I'm posting the "best" picture I have of one of the tote bags I finished. Nothing even close to what some of you are posting, but I'm pretty happy with it. Having dropped more than a months rent over a year ago I finally had enough of not knowing how to use a sewing machine and am finally starting to try and make purchasing one worthwhile. Comments, thoughts, I'll take whatever you might have to say. 

Thanks for looking!

[MtlBiker]

@Chux - It looks good!

But not seeing details makes it hard to comment more fully.  Is there a gusset?  What's the base look like?  Is it lined?  Is there a top closure?  Inside pocket(s)?  Is the strap edge raw (hard to see from the photo)?  It's probably chrome tan leather, right?  What weight?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm curious and also trying to learn more about bag making.

To upload multiple photos, just click on the "choose files" link at the bottom when you're writing a message.

Cheers!
 

[Chux]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

@Chux - It looks good!

But not seeing details makes it hard to comment more fully.  Is there a gusset?  What's the base look like?  Is it lined?  Is there a top closure?  Inside pocket(s)?  Is the strap edge raw (hard to see from the photo)?  It's probably chrome tan leather, right?  What weight?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm curious and also trying to learn more about bag making.

To upload multiple photos, just click on the "choose files" link at the bottom when you're writing a message.

Cheers!
 

First, I will have to try and add more photos tomorrow hopefully that will help. Now for your questions...

The base is flat, pretty much the same as a gift bag, if that helps. Yes, I lined it. I made a cloth "bag" from the same pattern and sewed that in. No closures,inside pockets would be beyond me knowing how to do at this point. Raw strap edges, I think next time I'll cut them wider and try skiving them down and sandwiching the edges inside if that makes sense? Yep, chrome tanned and unfortunately I don't know the weight. I had bought that leather probably 6 or 7 years ago and pretty much just went by "feel".

I don't mind the questions at all, I'm still trying to figure out what I'm doing with every project that I attempt. 

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, Chux said:

First, I will have to try and add more photos tomorrow hopefully that will help. Now for your questions...

The base is flat, pretty much the same as a gift bag, if that helps. Yes, I lined it. I made a cloth "bag" from the same pattern and sewed that in. No closures,inside pockets would be beyond me knowing how to do at this point. Raw strap edges, I think next time I'll cut them wider and try skiving them down and sandwiching the edges inside if that makes sense? Yep, chrome tanned and unfortunately I don't know the weight. I had bought that leather probably 6 or 7 years ago and pretty much just went by "feel".

I don't mind the questions at all, I'm still trying to figure out what I'm doing with every project that I attempt. 

I think  you've done darn well!  What machine do you have by the way?  The way you've stitched the top of the bag (to put the inner and outer together) looks like you might have a cylinder arm machine.  The photo you posted is pretty small and it's hard to see but it looks like you've stitched that well.  I'm really just a beginner myself so my comments might not be all that helpful, but what I've done with my straps is to take a thinner chrome tan leather than the body leather (if it's 4-5oz for the body, I'd use about 2oz for the strap) and fold it in twice (like starting with 4" wide, folding it in to make it 2" and then folding that to result in 1") and then top stitching both edges to finish it.  That way all the raw edges are hidden.

You mention that next time you might try skiving your leather down for the straps... unless you have a bell skiver it's pretty tough to skive chrome tan leather.  Veg tan you can skive with a skiving knife.

I'm really just learning.

[chrisash]

Nice bag my only other comment is the rivet's do not look central to the straps width

[Chux]

Thank you. They aren't "perfect" but the picture does make it look worse. I have to work on my photography "skills" as well 

[Chux]

Thank you. They aren't "perfect" but the picture does make it look worse. I have to work on my photography "skills" as well 

Edited May 19, 2022 by Chux
Double comment/delete

[Chux]

Ok so here are a couple more pics. I stuffed it with some crumpled newspaper. Not exactly square but it helps it stand. 1st is a side view, then the bottom and lastly the top edge with some of the lining. I can pretty much guarantee things will change as I try and make more. I bought a bell skiver off Amazon and let me tell you, I can DESTROY a lot of leather REALLY FAST with that thing!! The edges look like a heart monitor...

Just gotta keep trying to get better I guess 

[MtlBiker]

@Chux - Glad you figured out the multiple photos thing.

Tell me about your strap... from the photos it looks like it's just one layer of leather, and you've stitched the edges.  Is that right?  Or does the photo not show another layer?  I don't think the strap looks finished as is.  And I'd also like to make a suggestion about how you've attached the inner bag to the outer...  it would look more finished if you folded both outer and inner towards the inside BEFORE stitching them together.  I don't like seeing the unfinished edge of your outer bag on the inside.  What I'm suggesting is what shows in my photo below.

I hope you don't mind my being critical.

The seams in the sides and bottom look very bulky... and not tight.  I think it would be very hard to get it perfect without skiving the edges of the leather first.  But with care it might be possible to get a tighter looking seam.

You bought a bell skiver off Amazon?  Really?  I didn't know you could.  Is it an unknown brand?  I have a bell skiver and did very well with it when using certain chrome tan leather but then I changed leather (same thickness) and I still haven't gotten it properly adjusted again.  It chews up leather like crazy.  There are a ton of good videos on YouTube about adjusting and using a bell skiver and they're helpful but it still is going to take a lot of care, skill and experience to get the adjustments right.

[Chux]

Well being critical is a double edge sword lol, but hey if I wasn't looking for the truth, I wouldn't post here. So yeah it kinda sucks, but it's good too. 

The strap is a double layer that I glued and then stitched together. 

I appreciate the suggestion on skiving the edges before sewing, it's something I'll have to try when I give it another go. Idk, would changing the tension on the machine help with that? The bell skiver is a cheap, manual Chinese pos but it was "cheap" enough that I was able to swing it thinking it would make life easier on me. Not so much but live and learn I guess. 

 

[RockyAussie]

9 hours ago, Chux said:

I bought a bell skiver off Amazon and let me tell you, I can DESTROY a lot of leather REALLY FAST with that thing!! The edges look like a heart monitor...

This video I did is a bit painful to watch but if you have not seen it already it will help you with getting it set up right - https://youtu.be/SjYI5DIzKBs

With the top edge of your lining fabric I would suggest that you either cut the fabric to line up at the top with an allowance (3/8"?) for the leather outer to fold down over or fold the lining out the other way and attach it just a smigeon lower to the outer leather folded top line Like here shown below -

You will find it easier to get a nice even top line fold if you use a heavy fabric stiffener as shown here attached before folding the top line

Magnets attached in the middle with tabs is often used

The base would be better with a stiffener in it like 3mm Texon board between the lining and outer.

 

Edited May 20, 2022 by RockyAussie

[Chux]

On 5/19/2022 at 8:15 PM, RockyAussie said:

This video I did is a bit painful to watch but if you have not seen it already it will help you with getting it set up right - https://youtu.be/SjYI5DIzKBs

With the top edge of your lining fabric I would suggest that you either cut the fabric to line up at the top with an allowance (3/8"?) for the leather outer to fold down over or fold the lining out the other way and attach it just a smigeon lower to the outer leather folded top line Like here shown below -

You will find it easier to get a nice even top line fold if you use a heavy fabric stiffener as shown here attached before folding the top line

Magnets attached in the middle with tabs is often used

The base would be better with a stiffener in it like 3mm Texon board between the lining and outer.

 

That is a really nice looking bag!!

I'll have to post a pic of the skiver I bought, because it doesn't look anything like yours, like I said previously, it was something I ordered off Amazon. Hindsight being what it is, I should have saved myself the money. I'm going to have to look into that texon. I did a quick Google and it seems like its a UK product and I have to figure out what it's called in the US and see if I can source it locally, finances being what they are right now, shall we say "hinder" being able to order things online at the moment. 

Thanks for commenting 

[MtlBiker]

On 5/19/2022 at 8:15 PM, RockyAussie said:

This video I did is a bit painful to watch but if you have not seen it already it will help you with getting it set up right - https://youtu.be/SjYI5DIzKBs

With the top edge of your lining fabric I would suggest that you either cut the fabric to line up at the top with an allowance (3/8"?) for the leather outer to fold down over or fold the lining out the other way and attach it just a smigeon lower to the outer leather folded top line Like here shown below -

You will find it easier to get a nice even top line fold if you use a heavy fabric stiffener as shown here attached before folding the top line

Magnets attached in the middle with tabs is often used

The base would be better with a stiffener in it like 3mm Texon board between the lining and outer.

 

@RockyAussie - You do really fabulous work!  A real craftsman!

May I ask a couple of questions about your post?  About the heavy fabric stiffener you say will help get a nice even top line fold... Is that stiffener permanently glued in place?  Or is it used just to help make the fold?  (Sorry, I'm still pretty much a newbie.)  And what is the stiffener you use... the Texon you've mentioned?

Then the tabs you used with the magnetic closure... are they just a single layer stitched onto the inner lining, or do they (don't know how to call it) wrap around the inner and outer part of the inner bag?  (I see they don't show on the outer bag.)

Finally, on the photo that shows the magnetic closure, it looks like there's a strip of blue (leather?) at the top and then brown further down?  Would it be possible for you to show a little more detail of the inner construction of the bag?  (Not looking to steal your design... only to learn techniques.)

You've mentioned Texon before for use as a bag bottom, etc.... is there some other product that is similar?  I haven't had any luck finding a source in Canada, other than through Etsy, where one 9" x 14" piece of 2mm (couldn't find 3mm) costs $10, PLUS $20 shipping!  $30 for one small piece is not something I want to put my money on.  I've actually fused some Decovil Light on the inside of a couple of my leather bags and (as a novice) I think it's not bad, but I don't really have anything to compare it to.

And thank you again for your willingness to share your experience and help others.  It's very much appreciated.

[MtlBiker]

2 hours ago, Chux said:

That is a really nice looking bag!!

I'll have to post a pic of the skiver I bought, because it doesn't look anything like yours, like I said previously, it was something I ordered off Amazon. Hindsight being what it is, I should have saved myself the money. I'm going to have to look into that texon. I did a quick Google and it seems like its a UK product and I have to figure out what it's called in the US and see if I can source it locally, finances being what they are right now, shall we say "hinder" being able to order things online at the moment. 

Thanks for commenting 

Chux, earlier on you mentioned that you'd bought a "bell skiver" through Amazon.  Is it really a bell skiver, or just something called a skiver?  Is it completely manual, using sharp blades that you pull the leather against?  Or is it a machine, with motor, etc.?

Skiving (successfully) is something that I'm having a really tough time with.  SIGH

 

[Chux]

2 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Chux, earlier on you mentioned that you'd bought a "bell skiver" through Amazon.  Is it really a bell skiver, or just something called a skiver?  Is it completely manual, using sharp blades that you pull the leather against?  Or is it a machine, with motor, etc.?

Skiving (successfully) is something that I'm having a really tough time with.  SIGH

 

On 5/19/2022 at 8:15 PM, RockyAussie said:

This video I did is a bit painful to watch but if you have not seen it already it will help you with getting it set up right - https://youtu.be/SjYI5DIzKBs

With the top edge of your lining fabric I would suggest that you either cut the fabric to line up at the top with an allowance (3/8"?) for the leather outer to fold down over or fold the lining out the other way and attach it just a smigeon lower to the outer leather folded top line Like here shown below -

You will find it easier to get a nice even top line fold if you use a heavy fabric stiffener as shown here attached before folding the top line

Magnets attached in the middle with tabs is often used

The base would be better with a stiffener in it like 3mm Texon board between the lining and outer.

 

That is a really nice looking bag!!

I'll have to post a pic of the skiver I bought, because it doesn't look anything like yours, like I said previously, it was something I ordered off Amazon. Hindsight being what it is, I should have saved myself the money. I'm going to have to look into that texon. I did a quick Google and it seems like its a UK product and I have to figure out what it's called in the US and see if I can source it locally, finances being what they are right now, shall we say "hinder" being able to order things online at the moment. 

Thanks for commenting 

[Chux]

Can you say, POS?? LOL

There is a couple of "adjustment" knobs for depth and angles as well as a few different rollers. But I can't for the life of me get anything skived worth a crap. So for now I took it off the bench...

[MtlBiker]

@Chux - Thanks for posting that.  It's what I was pretty sure you had bought.  It's not a "bell skiver" at all.  I've seen those devices for sale online and at Tandy Leather and from what I've seen, some folks are really quite happy with them.  So it is doable, but certainly challenging.  And even a real bell skiver is pretty darn challenging, let me tell you!  Very steep learning curve, at least for me.

Cheers!
 

 

[blue duck]

@Chux you might try looking for 'bontex'. They are the same. It is a special paper /cardboard made for bags and shoes. It comes in many thicknesses, depending on what you want it to do.

[Chux]

2 hours ago, blue duck said:

@Chux you might try looking for 'bontex'. They are the same. It is a special paper /cardboard made for bags and shoes. It comes in many thicknesses, depending on what you want it to do.

I'll definitely look into that, thanks for the suggestion!

[Chux]

I didnt think this deserves a separate post so I'm just throwing in with my other bag. I tried taking some suggestions of folding my edges and making it look more "finished". That being said, it's still practice, teaching myself how to machine sew. Lots of room for improvement, but this was pretty much a snip and stich as I went project. 

[blue duck]

A couple more ideas. Hammer down your stitch line. That will help the edges a bit as well. And see if you can get the stitching closer to the edge.

But the bag is looking good.

 

[RockyAussie]

On 5/22/2022 at 2:59 AM, MtlBiker said:

Finally, on the photo that shows the magnetic closure, it looks like there's a strip of blue (leather?) at the top and then brown further down?  Would it be possible for you to show a little more detail of the inner construction of the bag?

On 5/22/2022 at 3:11 AM, Chux said:

Can you say, POS?? LOL

There is a couple of "adjustment" knobs for depth and angles as well as a few different rollers. But I can't for the life of me get anything skived worth a crap. So for now I took it off the bench...

@Chux A skiver of any type like that will not work well if at all on the softer upholstery type leathers. For medium to firm veg tan leathers you may be lucky.

@MtlBiker

On 5/22/2022 at 2:59 AM, MtlBiker said:

About the heavy fabric stiffener you say will help get a nice even top line fold... Is that stiffener permanently glued in place?  Or is it used just to help make the fold? 

Yes it is permanently glued in place but not all the way to the bottom in this case. If a stiffener that only goes down partly inside on the outer skin you stand the risk of having a line show up on the outside. The stiffener in this product also serves to give an extra reinforcement for where the straps go into the bag for the rivets. These pictures are from the same bag design but in black. You will notice that the heavy fabric that is reinforcing the top line finishes short of the ends and that is to allow for the backfolding of the sides when they get done before the restitching down the sides with a tall post machine.

Below you can see where I have attached a fabric tape to further reinforce the edges

 

On 5/22/2022 at 2:59 AM, MtlBiker said:

the Texon you've mentioned?

Yes that was mentioned above. There are many types of reinforcing boards made by various brands and in this case the Texon board is mostly used for the insoles in shoes. The size is normally about 1.5m x 1m and costs around $30.00 I think per sheet. Bontex is another brand that Blue Duck mentioned above and it also is mostly made for insoles of shoes.

On 5/22/2022 at 2:59 AM, MtlBiker said:

Then the tabs you used with the magnetic closure... are they just a single layer stitched onto the inner lining, or do they (don't know how to call it) wrap around the inner and outer part of the inner bag?  (I see they don't show on the outer bag.)

They are separate pieces that get sewn in at the same time as the top line stitching. Here below you see 4 fabric pieces that are folded and they have been folded over a inner piece of fabric.

Those 4 pieces get attached together to end up like this which then gets attached to the top line lining edge and stitched with the top line stitching.

On 5/22/2022 at 2:59 AM, MtlBiker said:

Finally, on the photo that shows the magnetic closure, it looks like there's a strip of blue (leather?) at the top and then brown further down?  Would it be possible for you to show a little more detail of the inner construction of the bag?

I don't have any good ones showing down inside the bag but this picture shows the lining with an inside flap pocket. This is inside out and the magnet tabs are not attached until the lining gets put inside the outer.