wallet Personalized Wallet (Prototype vs Final Version)

[Criticles]

I made a personalized wallet for my boyfriend. I started by creating a prototype for practice because it's my first time working with this kind of leather. The leather used in the prototype is too thick so I could only do one pocket per side. So I made sure to get thinner leather for the pockets of the final version. I also included a picture slot using recycled plastic from a clear envelope. It a bit hard to sew the leather layers with the plastic because I had to use super glue to make sure the plastic is secure. To add a sentimental touch, I included a quote in one pocket with letterpressing and foil stamping (I include a personal message behind the picture slot for my boyfriend).

Doing a prototype first helped me improved on burnishing edges and sewing, although I think I still have a lot of room to improve when it comes to symmetry and consistent measurements. All of my tools are hand-tools too, so it's harder to be accurate, although I'd like to think of design errors/mistakes as adding character to the product. 

If you have any suggestions or feedback, I'd appreciate it. Right now, leather crafting is a passion and hobby for me, and I've only ever made leather products as gifts to friends and loved ones, but I'd like to improve my skills hopefully to mature into my own brand.

On that note, would this wallet be something you'd like to use? What would you change/add/remove if you were to use it? What do you like best about it?

[PastorBob]

That looks really good.  Lots of progress from the prototype to the finished one. If I used that style of wallet, I would gladly carry it.  Are the words stamped on the panel all foiled?  Maybe it's the camera angle, but it appears that some are not.  Care to share what is stamped under the photo area?  

 

 Burnishing really sets off the edges for sure.  One thing I added to my burnishing steps is to sand the edges down flush so you can no longer distinguish between the layers of leather so when it is burnished it looks like 1 piece of leather instead of multiple.  Here is an example of a layered leather holster I did...

 

[Doc Reaper]

I have the prototypes in my shop, but then the buyers want the larger ones, go figure 

[DJole]

The stitching to the right of the photo area looks like it was "reverse" slanted -- was that a deliberate design choice? It looks odd to my eye.

[fredk]

On 6/15/2022 at 1:44 PM, Criticles said:

 

 

1. consistency;  on the three large pocket wallet you have sewn over the edges of the pockets in three places but not the fourth

2. your thread looks to be a bit too big for your stitching holes

3. your thread looks very dry - did you wax it? and refresh the waxing as you sewed?

4. I suggest you make a stitching groove along the line of your sewing. It doesn't have to be cut into the leather, it can just be a pressed in groove

5. use a lightweight hammer or mallet and tap down all your stitching

6. your back-stitching at the ends needs working on. It looks too rough but I think that may be because of # 2

7. I suggest you put a circular hole in the apex of each corner so the sewing changes direction neater

8. On the two pocket wallet; have you sewn over the edges of the large pocket? afais it looks like you did on the top but not the bottom, back to # 1

9. you can use strong double-sided tape to hold plastic windows in place

[Criticles]

On 6/16/2022 at 9:06 PM, PastorBob said:

That looks really good.  Lots of progress from the prototype to the finished one. If I used that style of wallet, I would gladly carry it.  Are the words stamped on the panel all foiled?  Maybe it's the camera angle, but it appears that some are not.  Care to share what is stamped under the photo area?  

 

 Burnishing really sets off the edges for sure.  One thing I added to my burnishing steps is to sand the edges down flush so you can no longer distinguish between the layers of leather so when it is burnished it looks like 1 piece of leather instead of multiple.  Here is an example of a layered leather holster I did...

 

I truly appreciate the feedback and the encouraging words. There's a short message for him behind the picture slot that I stamped and foiled. I'm too shy to share but also it's a message just for him but nice catch hehe. I also foiled my signature or 'brand' there so it's more discreet. 

Thank you for the suggestion about the burnishing. I thought I could rub down the layers with just burnishing gum and I spent hours and hours doing so to no avail. I'll definitely try sand paper/sand sticks in my next projects. Great holster! You burnishing result is exactly what I was aiming for. Do you just sand and burnish it with gum, or do you also put paint over it?

[Criticles]

On 6/17/2022 at 2:46 AM, DJole said:

The stitching to the right of the photo area looks like it was "reverse" slanted -- was that a deliberate design choice? It looks odd to my eye.

For both wallets, I used a diamond chisel to punch the holes, so I guess that's what made it look slanted. So far, I've only used diamond and round punches so it may be the result of that. I prefer diamond chisel because of the slant, but I also use 1mm thread for this project so it might've made the thread looks thicker in the stitch for this leather thickness.

 

Edited June 18, 2022 by Criticles
first image format not compatible

[Criticles]

On 6/17/2022 at 3:18 AM, fredk said:

1. consistency;  on the three large pocket wallet you have sewn over the edges of the pockets in three places but not the fourth

2. your thread looks to be a bit too big for your stitching holes

3. your thread looks very dry - did you wax it? and refresh the waxing as you sewed?

4. I suggest you make a stitching groove along the line of your sewing. It doesn't have to be cut into the leather, it can just be a pressed in groove

5. use a lightweight hammer or mallet and tap down all your stitching

6. your back-stitching at the ends needs working on. It looks too rough but I think that may be because of # 2

7. I suggest you put a circular hole in the apex of each corner so the sewing changes direction neater

8. On the two pocket wallet; have you sewn over the edges of the large pocket? afais it looks like you did on the top but not the bottom, back to # 1

9. you can use strong double-sided tape to hold plastic windows in place

These are useful points for improvement-- thank you for taking the time.

1 & 4. Missing that one stitch bothered me a lot and it's a lesson in accurate measurement. I used an awl for the sewing line but I guess I didn't put enough pressure. I agree that using a stitching groove would help with both symmetry and alignment, which I struggle with just using a metal ruler and marker. I'm hesitant to rush-buy every leather tool under the sun, so the mistakes I make along the way helps decide which specific tool to get next and practice with. Thanks for the new tool suggestion.

2, 3, 5 & 6. The set of threads I have for now are all 1mm, and I think that thickness becomes more obvious because I used a diamond chisel. I might not have punched hard enough either because I wanted the holes to close in around the leather. My threads are waxed, but I think they look dry because once I'm done with stitching, I'd run my lighter quickly through all the threads to secure them and darken them a bit. Maybe beginner's mistake. I'll try thinner threads and gently hammering them down as suggested.

7 & 9. Great suggestions. 

Edited June 18, 2022 by Criticles

[fredk]

3 minutes ago, Criticles said:

. . . 

1 & 4. Missing that one stitch bothered me a lot and it's a lesson in accurate measurement. I agree that using a stitching groove would help with both symmetry and alignment, which I struggle with just using a metal ruler and marker. I'm hesitant to rush-buy every leather tool under the sun, so the mistakes I make along the way helps decide which specific tool to get next and practice with. Thanks for the new tool suggestion.

 . . .

You don't 'need' to buy a new tool for making a groove; your ruler and an old used up ball-point pen. A used up pen, no ink, press it hard and it will leave a fine groove for you to follow

[DJole]

2 hours ago, Criticles said:

For both wallets, I used a diamond chisel to punch the holes, so I guess that's what made it look slanted. So far, I've only used diamond and round punches so it may be the result of that. I prefer diamond chisel because of the slant, but I also use 1mm thread for this project so it might've made the thread looks thicker in the stitch for this leather thickness.

I think I wasn't clear in my description. Let me try again!
The "diamond" or Japanese stitching chisels, as you know, make slanted lines as in (A) in the diagram below
The usual stitching follows the direction indicated by the red "stitches" in line (B).
I think your lines on the right side of the plastic window are doing the opposite, as shown by line (C). 

That's what I mean by "reverse." It seems like all the other stitching on your wallet is done the usual way, but that one line appears to be backwards, and doesn't match the other ones. But perhaps I am just seeing it wrong?

The 1 mm thread you used in this project looks okay -- it has a robust look to it which matches the design. 

Edited June 18, 2022 by DJole

[DJole]

1 hour ago, fredk said:

You don't 'need' to buy a new tool for making a groove; your ruler and an old used up ball-point pen. A used up pen, no ink, press it hard and it will leave a fine groove for you to follow

Fred is right -- and you most likely have those things already!
As many have done, I bought a stitch groover tool years ago, which cut a stitching groove. I haven't used it for at least the past 5 years, though. I found it a bit hard to control and get good straight lines. 
Now, like many,  I just use an inexpensive wing divider. I find I get better results (as long as my edge cuts are straight!), and I can control the distance of the line from the edge a lot better.
The stitching groover now just sits in a box somewhere...I'm not even sure where it is at the moment! ;-)
 

Edited June 18, 2022 by DJole

[Criticles]

51 minutes ago, DJole said:

I think I wasn't clear in my description. Let me try again!
The "diamond" or Japanese stitching chisels, as you know, make slanted lines as in (A) in the diagram below
The usual stitching follows the direction indicated by the red "stitches" in line (B).
I think your lines on the right side of the plastic window are doing the opposite, as shown by line (C). 

That's what I mean by "reverse." It seems like all the other stitching on your wallet is done the usual way, but that one line appears to be backwards, and doesn't match the other ones. But perhaps I am just seeing it wrong?

The 1 mm thread you used in this project looks okay -- it has a robust look to it which matches the design. 

Thank you for clarifying and also for the feedback! You're right that I did 'reverse slanted' for the stitching beside the plastic slot. Initially, it was only to secure the plastic more. I used gold thread at first, but after sewing, I wasn't happy with the look because there were gaps in the stitch holes (I think my sewing was just too tight that it pulled apart the holes and made them bigger). So I just thought to make it some kind of a design and stitch two different color threads over each other. First time I've done this stitching-- it looks like it uses up more thread than the usual stitching but I like it as a decorative. 

2 hours ago, fredk said:

You don't 'need' to buy a new tool for making a groove; your ruler and an old used up ball-point pen. A used up pen, no ink, press it hard and it will leave a fine groove for you to follow

28 minutes ago, DJole said:

Fred is right -- and you most likely have those things already!
As many have done, I bought a stitch groover tool years ago, which cut a stitching groove. I haven't used it for at least the past 5 years, though. I found it a bit hard to control and get good straight lines. 
Now, like many,  I just use an inexpensive wing divider. I find I get better results (as long as my edge cuts are straight!), and I can control the distance of the line from the edge a lot better.
The stitching groover now just sits in a box somewhere...I'm not even sure where it is at the moment! ;-)
 

Ah I might've misunderstood the suggestion. This is good to know-- I'd choose tools with multiple and practical functions over those with only specific uses (unless they're essential) any day. I used a scratch awl to make grooves for the wallets but obviously I really need more practice with symmetrical grooving and punching holes properly on the lines. A wing divider sounds like a multi-functional tool as well-- I'm thinking I can use a compass as an alternative if I ever need to do circular stitching. Thank you again for both your feedback and guidance. 

[Tugadude]

What you have accomplished to do is make your stitching look very tidy (in general) and consistent.  Going around corners is a learning curve and with practice you will get better.  Are you using a 2-prong iron to work the curves?  If not, that will help.  

There are areas for improvement, but you are showing progress, and that's key.  

I'm sure he's thrilled, and that's worth a lot in itself.

[Bert03241]

I would also slick down the rough inside of the wallet.Otherwise nice job

[PastorBob]

On 6/18/2022 at 2:34 AM, Criticles said:

Do you just sand and burnish it with gum, or do you also put paint over it?

I sand, then burnish either with gum or tokonole using the burnisher, then rub with a small piece of canvas as needed.  No edge coating otherwise.