Camouflage and Viener

[Davm]

First, I've asked a lot of questions as a newbie so THANKS everyone for the help, really do appreciate it.  You have to carve a few things, look at it, analyze it and ask yourself, "why doesn't this look as good as a lot of the other work I see?"  One problem I am having is curved stems or scrolls.  A camouflage stamp seems too much of an arc but the Tandy book says to use that stamp and angle it.  The veiner seems similar but if used mostly for leaf veins?  As a general rule, for a curved stem, how far across do you have the stamp mark and how far across the pear shading? Do you usually stamp the outside of the curve about half way across and pear shade the balance?  Maybe every job is its own boss, there are no "rules". Thanks for any comments.  Do you have a variety of veiner and camouflage so the tool matches the work?

And, as I think about it, if you stamp the outside curve of the stem with a camouflage stamp an then bevel it,  right now my beveling seems to be obliterating the camouflage stamp- to a degree.

Edited July 28, 2022 by Davm

[chuck123wapati]

I have heck with this as well. I'm np pro by any means but here is my understanding for what its worth.

Yes you need multiple sizes so they match the size of your work. Stohlmans patterns are excellent but you need to remember he made them to match the size of tool so if you change the size of the pattern you need to change the size of the tools also. you also change the sizes as the scroll or stem gets smaller or larger. the camo stamps arc gives the impression of roundness in the stem while the veiner does so also at a lesser degree but also for texture purposes on the leaves and such. the pear shader is for creating a three dimensional look through shadow effect on the leather, it creates a shadow making your eye see dimension. Every job is its own boss and rules are minimal. If you would post a few pics we could see better what you are worried about. 

[kseidel]

To reference your beveling question, All of your beveling should be done before any decorative stamps are used. (ie: cams, veins, liners, mule tracks, etc.)  You can use cams with or without flutes, or veiners usually fluted, for decorating the swirls.  Studying the work of others will give you several options.  Keith

[battlemunky]

@kseidel, those examples hurt my sensibilities how good they are. Man is it well executed! I'm not a huge fan of traditional western carving but when it is excellent, it's impossible not to appreciate it.

[dikman]

Damn, Keith, that is so beautiful it hurts my eyes!!!! Makes my effort seems so........inadequate.

[Davm]

Beautiful work, A-1. Thanks on the beveling.  The Tandy book, which I'm starting to  l realize was for beginners, has it the other way but it didn't make sense.  On pear shading, is it the same? The book had the stamp but if you stamp and then shade, the shade takes out some of the stamp mark.

I saw a "you tube" where there was atool to sort of under cut the edge of a flower, etc. to make it stand out more. I think it might have been just for a particular part of a bend, curve, etc.

[chuck123wapati]

22 hours ago, kseidel said:

To reference your beveling question, All of your beveling should be done before any decorative stamps are used. (ie: cams, veins, liners, mule tracks, etc.)  You can use cams with or without flutes, or veiners usually fluted, for decorating the swirls.  Studying the work of others will give you several options.  Keith

the best in Wyoming !!! just for an bench mark for us beginners how many years have you been tooling? I know at 63 i will never get this good.

[dikman]

8 hours ago, Davm said:

Beautiful work, A-1. Thanks on the beveling.  The Tandy book, which I'm starting to  l realize was for beginners, has it the other way but it didn't make sense.  On pear shading, is it the same? The book had the stamp but if you stamp and then shade, the shade takes out some of the stamp mark.

I saw a "you tube" where there was atool to sort of under cut the edge of a flower, etc. to make it stand out more. I think it might have been just for a particular part of a bend, curve, etc.

I think that tool is a lifter, used to give a more pronounced 3D effect under parts of the petals.

[kseidel]

6 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

the best in Wyoming !!! just for an bench mark for us beginners how many years have you been tooling? I know at 63 i will never get this good.

You are very kind!  I started in the leather business in 1976.  Bought my first stitcher in 78, built my first saddle in 79.  I made saddles for years before doing any stamping.  Learned to stamp from Billy Gardner in 1985.  It feels like forever at this point, but I have been stamping for 37 years!  The important thing to remember is that I have made my living in this business full time for all those years.  It takes a LOT of hours of stamping and constant study to improve to develop this level of skills.  Thanks for the compliments.  Keith

[Davm]

Thanks on the lifter.