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Diesel1622

Antique problems

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Good afternoon. I’m having some problems with my antique process and looking for recommendations. For the backstory, I’m currently using eco- flo dyes, fiebings tan-kote, and fiebings vintage gel. My problem is, after I’ve dyed, no matter how many coats of tan-kote I use, my vintage gel is darkening my dye job. Even if I rub it off quick, and lord forbid I let it sit for more than 20 seconds. Anyone have any clue what I’m doing wrong?

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After dying, add a resist to the whole area, then the antique paste

 

edit: apologies I have just realised that tan kote is a resist- need more coffee

Edited by HaloJones

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Hi,

not sure, if you found your answer. I had the same problem. First of all, tan-kote is not the best resist to use. I tried resolene, which actually did the job better but not the best. I am planning to buy Pro Resist to try it out.

Tan-kote is not waterproof which is quite bad when using a liquid gel. Try using an antique paste. Gel will most probably penetrate resolene as well.

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Antique will darken your work to some degree no matter what. Same with oils and other finishes. They all effect the final look. 

I compensate by beginning with lighter coloring. In other words, if I want the final piece to be "medium brown" I use light brown dye (or dilute whatever dye I'm using) .

To lighten an already-dyed workpiece, you could scrub over the leather with a melamine foam pad (aka Mr. Clean magic eraser), or cloth dampened with alcohol to remove some of the antique. 
hope this helps.

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Some things you didn't say is what leather are you using and why are you dyeing it if you are using antique? It's all confusing because my question was when I started was if you use a resist, then why are there different colored antiques? It's because the antique will always leech through a little,  the color of antique will dictate how dark it will get. If you don't resist and even use like a tan gel antique on the leather and wipe off as quick as you can it will be black as night. On import leather it's colored so light from the start that I've dyed before antiquing. On Herman Oak if you oil it, then resist and use a light colored antique it will end up lighter as the darkening from the oil will fade away over time.

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Try switching to a paste. I've found the gels really tend to eat through the resist more for some reason. I've also found bee natural RTC be better for me.

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1 hour ago, Loki74 said:

Try switching to a paste. I've found the gels really tend to eat through the resist more for some reason. I've also found bee natural RTC be better for me.

I really like all of their products I've used.

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