Chakotay

I normally run #207 thread in my Class 26. I've even accidentally run #277 on the top (grabbed the wrong spool.) It ran fine.

Yep, you found them! Some of the items (like the shaped die cutters) are best used on an arbor press (or similar). You may see me on the videos pounding on them with a maul, but that's usually just because I only needed one or two cuts and didn't want to set up the camera for it. The leathercraft stuff on Amazon really runs the gamut of junk to very good. Just read the reviews carefully. But at the price it's a good place to try a particular tool before spending real $$$ on the expensive version. For instance, before dropping $180 on a single Sinabroks stitching punch, I decided to try the $40 "WUTA" brand stitching punches (a set of 3) first just to see if I like this style of stitching. They work great and l never bought the Sinabroks verison.

I believe Babylon sells both craftboard and clear acrylic templates for this satchel. I get them from Amazon. Just look up "leather corner cutters" or similar. There's several styles of them and they're pretty cheap.

I actually made a video of this for my Youtube channel. I didn't use a pattern at the time of filming. However, you can get one from Babylon Leather (link in the video description . . . note I don't receive any commission for this.)

Back when I started using it you couldn't find it anywhere else. Found an international seller on eBay who sold gallons of it relatively cheap. But good to know I can score it more locally now! When I run out of my current supply I'll defiantly go there.

Just don't take a deep breath of Barge or Weldwood! lol

^ This 100%. Aquilim 315 is the only glue I use anymore. You can see me using it all the time on my YouTube channel. Previously bought Barge and Weldwood simply because those were easily available at Home Depot and Lowes. Aquilim is more expensive, and you have to order it online from Germany, but for me the fact that it's water-based, non-toxic, and low-oder more than offsets the health risks associated with the high-VOC stuff. I was getting headaches brushing on the other glues. I found it's plenty strong for everything I've thrown at it. But I use it almost exclusively for gluing liners . . . which all get stitched anyway . . . so how strong does it really need to be?

I have. . . . and decided I much prefer just printing PLA.

Antique will darken your work to some degree no matter what. Same with oils and other finishes. They all effect the final look. I compensate by beginning with lighter coloring. In other words, if I want the final piece to be "medium brown" I use light brown dye (or dilute whatever dye I'm using) . To lighten an already-dyed workpiece, you could scrub over the leather with a melamine foam pad (aka Mr. Clean magic eraser), or cloth dampened with alcohol to remove some of the antique. hope this helps.

#X517 Basket Weave Stamp purchased at ProLeatherCarvers

Latest 1911 holster with my NEW favorite basketweave stamp. Fully lined with milled leather. I've got into a habit recently of doing edge binding on my holsters. I really need to stop; it's such a pain in the butt.

Where are you looking for them? A quick search in the usual places: Amazon, Springfield Leather, eBay, etc... I see lots of strap cutters and replacement blades for cheap.

Guess I shoulda have included that: Thanks! It a nice calf hide I picked up at Tandy.

Just finished this holster for a '51 Navy using hair-on-hide. I have a build video on Youtube as well.

here's my vinegaroon recipe: