Diesel1622 Report post Posted September 12, 2022 Good afternoon. I’m having some problems with my antique process and looking for recommendations. For the backstory, I’m currently using eco- flo dyes, fiebings tan-kote, and fiebings vintage gel. My problem is, after I’ve dyed, no matter how many coats of tan-kote I use, my vintage gel is darkening my dye job. Even if I rub it off quick, and lord forbid I let it sit for more than 20 seconds. Anyone have any clue what I’m doing wrong? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) After dying, add a resist to the whole area, then the antique paste edit: apologies I have just realised that tan kote is a resist- need more coffee Edited September 13, 2022 by HaloJones Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kakabus Report post Posted September 24, 2022 Hi, not sure, if you found your answer. I had the same problem. First of all, tan-kote is not the best resist to use. I tried resolene, which actually did the job better but not the best. I am planning to buy Pro Resist to try it out. Tan-kote is not waterproof which is quite bad when using a liquid gel. Try using an antique paste. Gel will most probably penetrate resolene as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chakotay Report post Posted September 24, 2022 Antique will darken your work to some degree no matter what. Same with oils and other finishes. They all effect the final look. I compensate by beginning with lighter coloring. In other words, if I want the final piece to be "medium brown" I use light brown dye (or dilute whatever dye I'm using) . To lighten an already-dyed workpiece, you could scrub over the leather with a melamine foam pad (aka Mr. Clean magic eraser), or cloth dampened with alcohol to remove some of the antique. hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burkhardt Report post Posted September 25, 2022 Some things you didn't say is what leather are you using and why are you dyeing it if you are using antique? It's all confusing because my question was when I started was if you use a resist, then why are there different colored antiques? It's because the antique will always leech through a little, the color of antique will dictate how dark it will get. If you don't resist and even use like a tan gel antique on the leather and wipe off as quick as you can it will be black as night. On import leather it's colored so light from the start that I've dyed before antiquing. On Herman Oak if you oil it, then resist and use a light colored antique it will end up lighter as the darkening from the oil will fade away over time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loki74 Report post Posted September 27, 2022 Try switching to a paste. I've found the gels really tend to eat through the resist more for some reason. I've also found bee natural RTC be better for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsunkasapa Report post Posted September 27, 2022 1 hour ago, Loki74 said: Try switching to a paste. I've found the gels really tend to eat through the resist more for some reason. I've also found bee natural RTC be better for me. I really like all of their products I've used. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites