Hatchet sheath—any helpful advice

[Jaxx1024]

21 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

your stitching makes it look much better!! Don't rush slow down and enjoy the process of learning and creating.

A welt in a sheath is a strip of leather put between the outer two pieces that protects the stitching from being cut by the blade. Usually about a 1/4" to 3/8" wide. running the length of the blade. you glue it between the two outer pieces along the edge then sew through it

Awesome! Thank you guys! 

16 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Here's a tutorial that might give you some ideas.

 

http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-make-leather-axe-sheath.html

 

Thanks Tug! I will check it out later. 

[Bert03241]

JMHO but I'd use heavier leather 8 to 9 oz. Hatchets tend to get thrown around the campsite and get beat up pretty good over time

[zuludog]

Search YouTube for 'making a leather axe sheath' There are several videos; such as this one, but there are others

 

[DaveP]

Here's one I had made. It was done twice as well. As above with hatchets and axes the welt really does need to be tapered . I have a double layer in this welt.  I also used copper rivets on the corners. They are inside the welt.

[Tugadude]

19 minutes ago, DaveP said:

Here's one I had made. It was done twice as well. As above with hatchets and axes the welt really does need to be tapered . I have a double layer in this welt.  I also used copper rivets on the corners. They are inside the welt.

that's very nice!

[Jaxx1024]

5 hours ago, Tugadude said:

that's very nice!

Very nice indeed! Thank you for the tips. I will definitely do that next time! 

[chuck123wapati]

of course head shape and axe function also affects design of the sheath. These are made to carry on a belt for example.

[TedNoiz]

Doesn't matter what it looks like.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  What matters is that it works and you're happy with it.  

The first two hatchet sheaths I made were of thin leather, too.  I always use thick veg-tan now.  It's the only way to fly for sheaths, especially for rugged use.

I keep away from rivets whenever I can with sheaths and holsters, especially steel rivets, and stick with stitching all the way.  Steel is going to be hard on your blade if rivet and blade meet.  If you choose to go with rivets, use copper.  Copper is much softer than your steel blade and won't damage it anywhere near as bad as steel.  Also, stitching is by far and away stronger than copper rivets and doesn't add weight to your project.  So... whaddya need rivets for?  I avoid them when I can.

 

 

 

[Jaxx1024]

On 9/21/2022 at 6:12 PM, TedNoiz said:

Doesn't matter what it looks like.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  What matters is that it works and you're happy with it.  

The first two hatchet sheaths I made were of thin leather, too.  I always use thick veg-tan now.  It's the only way to fly for sheaths, especially for rugged use.

I keep away from rivets whenever I can with sheaths and holsters, especially steel rivets, and stick with stitching all the way.  Steel is going to be hard on your blade if rivet and blade meet.  If you choose to go with rivets, use copper.  Copper is much softer than your steel blade and won't damage it anywhere near as bad as steel.  Also, stitching is by far and away stronger than copper rivets and doesn't add weight to your project.  So... whaddya need rivets for?  I avoid them when I can.

 

 

 

Thank you! I will implement this stuff into my next projects!