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Sometimes when I am doing the cuts for a carving pattern, they don't seem to be deep enough to get nice even indentations when using the bvevelers or other pattern tools. What am I doing wrong? I strop my blade before start. I don't do a lot of carving for that reason. I do stamping more.

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Perhaps the angle of your blade is too obtuse, meaning too 'fat'? A more acute angle may change that.

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I find that sometimes my cut lines are too shallow, as, I'm interpreting you to say too. I try not to stop anymore than necessary

and keep the blade going same depth , at the ends I kind of lessen the cut pressure to taper my cut upward to a stop but even that takes lots of practice and I'm not too well versed at it either But, I keep trying !. Maybe that might help ?

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I think it's more a problem of humidification of your leather or even of the nature of your leather. It's possible to carve  a design on leather without using swivel knife before and having a very good volume.therefore the quality of the blade or the sharpness cannot be the only factor.

Personally, I don't like blade of swivel knife too much sharpened I want it's very polished like a mirror but no sharp (it's a long debate and everyone has their own technique). With that, I obtain a correct result with good contrasts.

Like that

471514872_20161008_1851371600x1200(2).thumb.jpg.c6ff94fd9fb29035e039ed3a2d3541cc.jpg

It's Hermann Oak 7/8 Oz natural stra


Other question, what you use as tools? bevelers? 

Do you have pictures of your job to help you more?

Mich'

Edited by FrenchMich

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Here is one. It came out looking to flat because the cuts were too shallow

IMG_0471.JPG

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Did you wet mold this ?  The reason I ask is that just recently I tooled a knife sheath and then wet formed too ........ lost a lot of definition   .  I have since been advised to do one or the other and  it worked much better .

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On 10/9/2022 at 8:09 PM, Gezzer said:

Did you wet mold this ?  The reason I ask is that just recently I tooled a knife sheath and then wet formed too ........ lost a lot of definition   .  I have since been advised to do one or the other and  it worked much better .

Yes I did wet form

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16 hours ago, Outfitr said:

A good steep beveler will help also.

What is a steep beveler?

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On 10/7/2022 at 7:06 PM, FrenchMich said:

I think it's more a problem of humidification of your leather or even of the nature of your leather. It's possible to carve  a design on leather without using swivel knife before and having a very good volume.therefore the quality of the blade or the sharpness cannot be the only factor.

Personally, I don't like blade of swivel knife too much sharpened I want it's very polished like a mirror but no sharp (it's a long debate and everyone has their own technique). With that, I obtain a correct result with good contrasts.

Like that

471514872_20161008_1851371600x1200(2).thumb.jpg.c6ff94fd9fb29035e039ed3a2d3541cc.jpg

It's Hermann Oak 7/8 Oz natural stra


Other question, what you use as tools? bevelers? 

Do you have pictures of your job to help you more?

Mich'

That is a great piece of work. I find that the dampness of leather has a great deal to do with your cuts and do my cuts while the leather still shows some moisture. I also like a sharp blade but a sharp swivel knife is an entirely different thing than a a regular cutting knife. I strop a lot and sometimes stop and resharpen my blade when stropping isn't quite getting my blade like I like it. I use one of the angle qadgets and a fine diamond hone to sharpen. switch to ceramic for a few strokes, and then to the strop until the blade edge  looks like a mirror. Don't forget to keep your finger pressure the same and the knife at a 90 degree angle to the leather..

Edited by doubleh

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On 10/9/2022 at 6:50 PM, Pappys Leather said:

Here is one. It came out looking to flat because the cuts were too shallow

IMG_0471.JPG

according to Al Stohlman "Leather craft tools" cuts should be about 1/2 the thickness of the leather.   

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I agree with Al. When I stared in leatherwork I bought his books and used his knowledge as a basis to teach myself as there was no other option. Smart man about all things concerning the art of leatherwork.

Edited by doubleh

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I concur with AS . Thats where a lot of my knowledge comes from .  I use an angled blade, sharpened with a  fine sharpening stone  finished off with  jewellers rouge on a leather strop, followed by a few cuts into a scrap of leather.  It glides through after that. 

@Pappys Leather Sometimes it just comes down to practice, experimenting and just doodling on scraps .  It took me a while in the early days to get it right. 

On 10/8/2022 at 9:06 AM, FrenchMich said:

Like that

I like that too :) 

HS

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20 hours ago, Pappys Leather said:

What is a steep beveler?

A steep beveler is a tool that has a steep angle. 

Barry King has a really nice line of steep bevelers but I'm sure there are others including Pro Leather Carvers:
https://www.barrykingtools.com/groundersbevelers.htm

https://proleathercarvers.com/products/smooth-steep-angle-beveler-set-2

I bought my set from BK and they helped my work a great deal.   I'm sure others here will have their own opinion, though.

I can only attest for BK tools and have not tried others.   

~JL

 

 

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13 hours ago, JayEhl said:

A steep beveler is a tool that has a steep angle. 

Barry King has a really nice line of steep bevelers but I'm sure there are others including Pro Leather Carvers:
https://www.barrykingtools.com/groundersbevelers.htm

https://proleathercarvers.com/products/smooth-steep-angle-beveler-set-2

I bought my set from BK and they helped my work a great deal.   I'm sure others here will have their own opinion, though.

I can only attest for BK tools and have not tried others.   

~JL

 

 

I'm not knocking you for the link because of what it says but I think the description is wrong unless I am wrong about my thinking of what a steep bevel is.

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Normal, (Tandy) bevelers have a 15 degree angle. Barry's steep bevelers have 30 degree angle, and his extra steep have 45.  Hope this clarifies.

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On 10/11/2022 at 11:21 AM, chuck123wapati said:

according to Al Stohlman "Leather craft tools" cuts should be about 1/2 the thickness of the leather.   

Sometimes it seems the blade will just cut so deep and it doesn't seem deep. Here is one I just finished the cuts and stamping

IMG_0396.jpg

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7 hours ago, Pappys Leather said:

Sometimes it seems the blade will just cut so deep and it doesn't seem deep. Here is one I just finished the cuts and stamping

IMG_0396.jpg

What weight leather?  Are you getting your leather damp all the way through then letting it case properly? To me it looks like your leather may have been to dry to tool well.

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I have noticed when using imported leather versus, say Hermann Oak, the depth of cut is not as deep and the beveling as well.  Like @chuck123wapati mentioned, are you casing the leather real good before cutting / stamping?

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Yes I wet the leather and let dry to start looking the color of the leather. This is a cover for a Tandy leather pouch. Maybe 2-3oz.

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Could you post a picture of just a couple of cuts in some scrap  and don't bevel them , just cuts ?  maybe a picture of your swivel knife blade ?

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Here is picture of my practice cuts and my knife.

IMG_0405.jpg

IMG_0406.jpg

IMG_0404.jpg

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The casing has to be just right. Too dry, and the figure won't have good definition, and your cuts won't be deep enough. Too wet, and the cuts will tend to close up. It takes practice to get it just right.

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Is your blade hollow ground ?  If not I think you may be ready for a new one or at the very least a trip to the stones ..... but I  may be totally wrong .

Here in your pic it doesn't look like you have much bevel left , I  enlarged about 300%

 

IMG_1780.thumb.JPG.32a0ce4a689b2d5448a410edcd93c23c.JPG

 

Here is a normal picture of mine , but again they would be different if yours is hollow ground .

 

 

IMG_1779.JPG

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9 hours ago, Pappys Leather said:

Here is picture of my practice cuts and my knife.

IMG_0405.jpg

IMG_0406.jpg

IMG_0404.jpg

The heart looks like a too dry cut to me. Like stated by others, proper case is very important. Personally I would chunk the hollow ground blade. Some like them, I don't. The ordinary straight blade works better for me. Different people like different tools but it wouldn't hurt and might help to try both.

Edited by doubleh

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