Chisel Size for Pocket Projects?

[NDphung]

Sorry again for being late to this topic but previously I read that European Irons/Chisels are meant for marking only not punch through. I believe that most modern European(French) Irons/Chisels can be used to punch through to about 4-5mm thick leather (9-10 oz) with their slim and long teeth (ref. Kevin Lee, JunLin, KS,Sinabroks, ZJ, Beagle, Craft Jayme etc). I could be wrong please let me know.

I even committed the most sacrilegious act by punching through 4mm of combined French Chevre and reinforcement using a Vergez Blanchard #8 Pricking iron (the class was given by a French teacher to boot). I know that it should be strictly use for marking follow by the awl. but here is the result, The backside of a clutch I made (2 x 1 mm French Chevre + 2mm Reinforcement with Campbell's Satin Laid Linen thread 532 or 832  I forgot).I will send front side (interior)   

[NDphung]

Front side interior . So I think technically you can punch through 4mm of leather even with a Vergez Blanchard Pricking Iron. To an untrained it actually doesn't look too bad. I rushed so a couple of stitches are messed up and I have not finished the other side (But the holes are punched through). 

[NDphung]

22 minutes ago, Danne said:

1. I have it clamed on my stitching clamp when I open the holes with my awl, it wouldn't work on a flat surface since the edges of the wallets interior are skived, so it wouldn't lay flat, and if it did I could instead punch all the way through with stitching irons.

2. I find that I get a more consistent result if I open up like the whole row of holes before I stitch, then I reposition the wallet to stitch another part, and first open those holes with an awl also. That way I feel more certain that I have the same angle all the time. 

3. I first cut of the sharp tip, then I flatten it to an oval shape. A lot of people don't want to spend the time doing this and then Palosanto have awls that people seem happy with, and they are already sharp and have a good profile. 

Thanks, I have not seen many crafters do it this way but I have seen your BiFolds and they are pretty spectacular so the result speaks for itself.

[Danne]

25 minutes ago, NDphung said:

Sorry again for being late to this topic but previously I read that European Irons/Chisels are meant for marking only not punch through. I believe that most modern European(French) Irons/Chisels can be used to punch through to about 4-5mm thick leather (9-10 oz) with their slim and long teeth (ref. Kevin Lee, JunLin, KS,Sinabroks, ZJ, Beagle, Craft Jayme etc). I could be wrong please let me know.

I even committed the most sacrilegious act by punching through 4mm of combined French Chevre and reinforcement using a Vergez Blanchard #8 Pricking iron (the class was given by a French teacher to boot). I know that it should be strictly use for marking follow by the awl. but here is the result, The backside of a clutch I made (2 x 1 mm French Chevre + 2mm Reinforcement with Campbell's Satin Laid Linen thread 532 or 832  I forgot).I will send front side (interior)   

 

18 minutes ago, NDphung said:

Front side interior . So I think technically you can punch through 4mm of leather even with a Vergez Blanchard Pricking Iron. To an untrained it actually doesn't look too bad. I rushed so a couple of stitches are messed up and I have not finished the other side (But the holes are punched through).

Yes, I would say that the older French irons (Like Blanchard) is pricking irons, and you are supposed to use them in combination with an awl. And new models like the ones you mentioned can be used as either pricking irons or stitching irons where you punch all the way through, because of their slimmer prongs without a taper.

When you used Blanchard to punch all the way through 4mm, the temper of the leather will determine how it will looks. A softer leather like goat leather will close up the holes better than for example a firm bridle leather. 

As you know, I like to make watch straps, and here these new irons really shine, because without using an awl it's possible to punch all the way through and get slim clean holes. And in my opinion it's not just the fact that the holes are less visible, with a slim hole the thread position itself better, which can be hard on thin leather when you cast the thread, but it's certainly easier if the hole isn't that wide at the front side.