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Dürkopp 17 Patcher - Sunday Morning Barn Find

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nice C!!!

glenn

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some cleaned parts

Interestingly most of the bigger parts are marked with the last 3 digits of the machines serial number.

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Edited by Constabulary

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nice C!!!   Durkopp mad the shoepatchers in 25 machine lots.  The problem was parts from one lot would not necessarily work form one lot to the next.  The number on it was a serial number part for that machine or lot.    The parts sure look nice and cleaned up after being in the electrolysis tank!!!

glenn

Edited by shoepatcher

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more parts to clean (bobbin winder and other bits). Disassembling the bobbin winder was a little tricky. I feared to break something - fortunately I did not. :wacko:

Lots a tiny bits n screws...

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Edited by Constabulary

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Still nice C!

glenn

10 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

nice C!!!   Durkopp made the shoepatchers in 25 machine lots.  The problem was parts from one lot would not necessarily work from one lot to the next.  The number on it was a serial number part for that machine or lot.    The parts sure look nice and cleaned up after being in the electrolysis tank!!!  I need lots more pics to help me with mine.

glenn

 

Edited by shoepatcher

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Head is apart

EDIT:

cannot rotate the pics I shot with my cellphone as it seems :wacko:

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Edited by Constabulary

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C,

I have a 17-1-1 that looked just like that and the table is just as rusty!!!   Too many projects in front of it however.

glenn

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Glenn, yet most parts were just dirty but not rusted. Dried oil + dust sometimes looks like rust. The parts turned out really nice!

I´m not sure about the color for the casting. I have green in mind or just black as it was.

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Black would look better.  I have on e Durkopp in green,  Not as nice as the black.

glenn

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alright - so black it will be ;) Just primed the machine casting and some parts.... More pics in the coming days...

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Edited by Constabulary

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Wow! This project is making my heart skip a beat!

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Real nice C  real nice!!!!!

glenn

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that's a very fine job you are doing it's a real beauty .

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This machine is a bit different to what I have read in the Class 17 manual (of  a later version I guess) so far . At least in terms of how to insert the needle correctly / timing. Usually you shove the needle all the way up in the needle holder tighten the needle holder screw and done. This machine is different. When I took it apart I noticed a very clear mark on the needle bar (very unusual for a patcher). Now that it is almost reassembled again I had to figure how to time the machine. It has an eccentric on the gear box (see earlier post) but it indeed ist not for timing it is for compensating wear on the racks and pinion and that is a great feature!

I the hell was not able to figure the timing cause I shoved the needle all the way up (of course). I assumed you can advance or retard the shuttle driver pinion by 1 tooth or so.... but no - did not work. Then yesterday night I went trough my manual collection and hell I found an original manual (German Language) for this machine :blink: :banana: . Did not even know that I have one and since when - really no clue. Now it is clear what the mark on the needle bar is for.

So, you have to bring the needle bar in a position that the mark is leveled with the surface of the top side of the head. Then insert the needle in the needle holder until the needle eye is leveled with the surface of the needle plate. And then the machine is timed right. Unusual but not a bad idea. But you have to know that cause all other patcher machines I ever had (yet) were different to this.

Will post more pictures later.

 

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Edited by Constabulary

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Damn.  That is a whole another way to time a shoepatcher.  I will have to remember that. trick.  coming along nice!!!

glenn

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Amazing job!!

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OMG !!  I wouldn't have the confidence to do what you have done , just looks great :specool:

I've worked on  old tractors, old landrovers and an old triumph and made them go again,, but not  old sewing machines. I think I would have trouble re-setting the timing, but I will be paying attention  on here on how you do it.  I've always been fascinated by peeps on here doing full restores on old machines. 

Still reckon the deer emblem  will look good in gold against the black, but thats just me, ... or is it ?? ;)

Well done  :) :)

 

HS

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Broke the hook :ranting2:  but I think I have a replacement, however it may work with out the tab too. Will check...

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I split a screw while turning the screw driver - no idea how this happened :blink: :lol:

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But I´m almost done with the head but still needs some work and maybe some adjustment. Added new longer thread spool pins. I forgot to "electrolyse" the hand wheel... so that's next. I just put it on for testing.

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Edited by Constabulary

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Damn.  That looks nice C!!!!!  Never seen a screw split like that.     You wire wheeling the parts after they come out of the electrolysis tank?

glenn

Edited by shoepatcher

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10 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

You wire wheeling the parts after they come out of the electrolysis tank?

Yes, every single part! ;)

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Looks nice.

glenn

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That screw body looks pretty ductile.  I wonder if it can be brazed?  Flux it with borax, then squeeze back in shape, then a tiny bit of brazing rod applied.....  worth a try.

God bless

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The screw is replaced already. It was the most unimportant screw on the whole machine. It just holds the oil pot in place. ;) I was just super surprised that it split up like this. Manufacturing error - I will check with Dürkopp if I still wave warranty. :lol:

When the "planets" are aligned like this and the needle is set as mentioned above the machine is correctly timed and sews well.

 

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