Thread keeps breaking - New Machine & New Operator

[TheRobertRalph]

I have a leather shoe patcher machine that I just bought. I'm sewing leather I had made from one of my bulls I slaughtered. 

My issue is that the thread keeps breaking. The needle punches the leather just fine and it'll lock a few stitches in but then breaks. 

What is the first thing to look for? Wrong needle, maybe? 

 

Leather thickness = 2/8"

Machine: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anqidi-11-8-Manual-Patch-Leather-Sewing-Machine-DIY-Cobbler-Shoe-Repair-Boot-Patcher-Industrial-Stitching-Machine/420734277

Thread: https://www.michaels.com/coats-and-clark-extra-strong-upholstery-thread/M10212112.html

Needle: DPx17 - 135x17 - 18/110 (came with the machine)

 

I'm not an expert but the tension seems to be adjusted fine. 

 

[TheRobertRalph]

I have also experimented with making the stitch length much longer and that seems to help.

Now, it pops the top thread when I am sewing thick leather or two pieces together. 

 

[ljk]

I like this machine it will sew 138 thread with a 135/16 /23 needle. The foot can be moved. it has needle timing and hook timing.  That's the good stuff The bad rough finish on hook and shuttle needs polishing.  Lot of these machines need work, however with couple of hours  it will sew.  Go to facebook chinese shoe patcher and read the files and post.

[kgg]

11 hours ago, TheRobertRalph said:

What is the first thing to look for? Wrong needle, maybe? 

The links to the machine or thread didn't work for me but when I tracked them back the machine is a clone of the old Singer 29K maybe a 29k- 70. When sites that cater to the domestic user say "upholstery or heavy duty"  they usual are referring to V69 thread. The needle you are using 135 x 17 size 18/110 will work with V46 in thicker material or V69 thread in thinner / tougher material. The 1/4" thickness of your leather is near or at the top sewing limit capacity of the machine. The needles 135 x 17 needles are for sewing fabric and the one that came with the machine probably isn't the best quality.

My suggestion would be to change the needle to a leather 135 X 16 needle and either a size 18 or 19 and a brand name like Schmetz needles for V69 thread that you are using.

A good needle size to thread size chart would be: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

kgg

[TheRobertRalph]

On 11/21/2022 at 6:55 AM, TheRobertRalph said:

I have a leather shoe patcher machine that I just bought. I'm sewing leather I had made from one of my bulls I slaughtered. 

My issue is that the thread keeps breaking. The needle punches the leather just fine and it'll lock a few stitches in but then breaks. 

What is the first thing to look for? Wrong needle, maybe? 

 

Leather thickness = 2/8"

Machine: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anqidi-11-8-Manual-Patch-Leather-Sewing-Machine-DIY-Cobbler-Shoe-Repair-Boot-Patcher-Industrial-Stitching-Machine/420734277

Thread: https://www.michaels.com/coats-and-clark-extra-strong-upholstery-thread/M10212112.html

Needle: DPx17 - 135x17 - 18/110 (came with the machine)

 

I'm not an expert but the tension seems to be adjusted fine. 

 

For what it is worth, here is the portion of the manual that refers to needles. 

On 11/21/2022 at 5:21 PM, ljk said:

I like this machine it will sew 138 thread with a 135/16 /23 needle. The foot can be moved. it has needle timing and hook timing.  That's the good stuff The bad rough finish on hook and shuttle needs polishing.  Lot of these machines need work, however with couple of hours  it will sew.  Go to facebook chinese shoe patcher and read the files and post.

That gives me hope it'll work. Thank you for the needle and thread information. 

[TheRobertRalph]

On 11/21/2022 at 7:05 PM, kgg said:

The links to the machine or thread didn't work for me but when I tracked them back the machine is a clone of the old Singer 29K maybe a 29k- 70. When sites that cater to the domestic user say "upholstery or heavy duty"  they usual are referring to V69 thread. The needle you are using 135 x 17 size 18/110 will work with V46 in thicker material or V69 thread in thinner / tougher material. The 1/4" thickness of your leather is near or at the top sewing limit capacity of the machine. The needles 135 x 17 needles are for sewing fabric and the one that came with the machine probably isn't the best quality.

My suggestion would be to change the needle to a leather 135 X 16 needle and either a size 18 or 19 and a brand name like Schmetz needles for V69 thread that you are using.

A good needle size to thread size chart would be: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

kgg

Thank you! Those are great suggestions. I'm trying to understand the needle sizes more. There are 135x17 #18 needles widely available but the 135x16 #18 is harder to find. What is the difference? I know it is a noob question.

I am excited to change needles and see what happens. I have some of these that I was going to try but they are 135x17 #18: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JV6GQUC

[kgg]

3 hours ago, TheRobertRalph said:

What is the difference?

The 135x 17 needles are in a nut shell made to separate the fibers of the fabric while a leather point is made to slice / cut through leather. I would suggest depending on how thick and tough the leather is using a #18 or #20 needle. For the price get some of each. A good link is Wawak.com : https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118

I early on converted to Schmetz and only use Schmetz needles in all my machine with excellent results. I replace my needles when they have about 8 hours of sewing time on them or when I find they are getting dull whichever comes first.

kgg

 

Edited November 23, 2022 by kgg

[MtlBiker]

4 hours ago, TheRobertRalph said:

What is the difference?

135x17 needles are for fabrics

135x16 needles are for leather

Either will fit in your machine.

[TheRobertRalph]

On 11/23/2022 at 11:36 AM, kgg said:

The 135x 17 needles are in a nut shell made to separate the fibers of the fabric while a leather point is made to slice / cut through leather. I would suggest depending on how thick and tough the leather is using a #18 or #20 needle. For the price get some of each. A good link is Wawak.com : https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118

I early on converted to Schmetz and only use Schmetz needles in all my machine with excellent results. I replace my needles when they have about 8 hours of sewing time on them or when I find they are getting dull whichever comes first.

kgg

 

Thank you for that great info!! I have ordered the needles you suggested. I also got other similar ones from Amazon asap. 

Anyhow, with the new needle, I am able to set the first stitch but then the subsequent ones don't grab the bobbin thread. Is there any first things that I should check to see why this is?

I appreicate the help in advance. 

Just now, TheRobertRalph said:

Thank you for that great info!! I have ordered the needles you suggested. I also got other similar ones from Amazon asap. 

Anyhow, with the new needle, I am able to set the first stitch but then the subsequent ones don't grab the bobbin thread. Is there any first things that I should check to see why this is?

I appreicate the help in advance. 

Oh, incidentally, if I sew thinner material, like a flannel shirt scrap, it catches the bobbin.... Very curious to me. 

[kgg]

9 hours ago, TheRobertRalph said:

Is there any first things that I should check to see why this is?

Simple things to check:

Have you inserted and threaded the needle properly? The long groove should be on the left side and the needle needs to be fully up into the needle bar. As you get closer to the upper sewing limit if the needle isn't set to the 9 to 3 o'clock position it can miss picking up the bobbin thread.

Also sometimes you need to reset the needle by twisting it a degree or two. I just had this happen with a portable walking foot after breaking a needle. I replaced the needle and on a test seam on a thin piece of cotton fabric it sewed perfectly. Once I started to sew the 0.53 mm poly binding to the item which was a combination of cotton, double batting and a rubber coated fabric it was sewing at it's max. Twisting the needle a degree or two solved the problem.  

10 hours ago, TheRobertRalph said:

if I sew thinner material, like a flannel shirt scrap, it catches the bobbin.... Very curious to me. 

Have you selected the right hole for the needle size in the bobbin cover? If the hole selected is too large and the material is woolly the material is probably is being force through. Try sewing the same flannel with a piece of thin paper on on bobbin side to keep the woolies from being forced in.

kgg