Members Icho Posted December 16, 2022 Author Members Report Posted December 16, 2022 On 12/13/2022 at 1:55 AM, Michiel said: That is an interesting part (the adjustable stop) i have never seen this one before does someone have (or can make) better pictures of it so i can see the complete design? regards michiel Here is a couple pics. It is a pretty simple piece. Let me know if you need any other info. Quote
Members Constabulary Posted December 16, 2022 Members Report Posted December 16, 2022 (edited) On 11/27/2022 at 5:22 AM, Icho said: I´m not an Adler expert but when I look at your picture and cross check the parts list of a 269 - I would guess your stitch length adjuster is not correctly assembled. Just a guess.... Cross checked the older parts list as well: You may also check the orientation of part # 268 16 004 0 - you (maybe) have to rotate it by 180° but I do not know the design of this part but f.i. on certain on Pfaff machines the orientation of this part matters! Edited December 16, 2022 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Michiel Posted December 16, 2022 Members Report Posted December 16, 2022 Thank you! this will do Quote
Members Icho Posted December 17, 2022 Author Members Report Posted December 17, 2022 3 hours ago, Constabulary said: I´m not an Adler expert but when I look at your picture and cross check the parts list of a 269 - I would guess your stitch length adjuster is not correctly assembled. Just a guess.... Cross checked the older parts list as well: You may also check the orientation of part # 268 16 004 0 - you (maybe) have to rotate it by 180° but I do not know the design of this part but f.i. on certain on Pfaff machines the orientation of this part matters! Good catch. I recently had it apart to see if I should remake part # 268 16 004 0(the plastic stopper) or buy and realized that it was cheap enough so that is one of the parts I'm waiting for. I thought it felt different going together than it did coming apart. I haven't had the machine running since and I know the reverse was a problem with the part the correct way. Once part # 268 16 004 0 comes in, I will see if it makes a difference rotating it 180 makes a difference. I did see a video on the backstitch topic, it was an Adler but a different machine. That plastic piece (part # 268 16 004 0) was the problem. There was a newer version of it that had a bit of a chamfer on the backstitch side of it. It is also something I will keep in mind even though it is a different machine, it looks to be the same idea. Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 22, 2023 Members Report Posted January 22, 2023 @Icho Just checking. Any progress here? Did you get the parts and have installed them? Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Icho Posted January 25, 2023 Author Members Report Posted January 25, 2023 On 1/22/2023 at 11:50 AM, Constabulary said: @Icho Just checking. Any progress here? Did you get the parts and have installed them? The parts didn't get here until after the holidays but I think I got it. I am not sure what fixed it and I hope it keeps up. It is looking really good for the first few backstitches then you see that it is off by a bit. See pics. Bottom with string tag. It actually seems to have gotten better since I took this pic. Here is a list of what I did. Checked the foot travel synchronization. Unfortunately it made no difference. Played with tension. It helped but minimally. Tried a larger needle. That helped! It made the normal forward stitch pretty much perfect. It didn't matter what thickness the leather was that I put though but it didn't help the backstitch much but it did help a bit. Not the stitch length but how clean the stitch was. This is where I started noticing real differences. I didn't feel confident about my tension assembly because when I lifted the feet, it didn't fully release the thread. I took it off and stared at it and thought about it. I noticed that it wasn't pushing the tensioner free of the thread so I played with a plate in the assembly. When I put it back together the thread released a lot better and the tensioning knob seemed to be more noticeable. The stitches were also better. Them when I turned up the tension, I got what you see in the pics. At this point I have had at least 80% of the components off or at least loose on the machine between cleaning and tuning but at least I am pretty comfortable servicing it now and it seems to be running smooth. I even completed my first project... a bag for my wife. The pic is also below. I still have to get used to the machine since I'm very new to sewing machines. I'm not convinced with what the best needle height is to flip it to reverse. From what I read, just past the lowest point but I had good luck with the needle up. I just had to align to the first hole but then the stitches matched nicely. Quote
Members ibrahim Posted February 19 Members Report Posted February 19 Hello everyone, I have a durkopp adler 269 sewing machine. When I sew back after a straight stitch, the thread gathers at the bottom and I couldn't find a solution. If there is a photo or video, I would like to see it. Best regards Quote
Trox Posted February 20 Report Posted February 20 On 11/27/2022 at 5:22 AM, Icho said: I did end up coming across a video for a pfaff that is the same idea. In the video for that particular machine he had to set the needle bar up 4mm and make sure the feed dog isn't moving. I know it is a different machine with different specs and I have to go with the service manual for my machine but I figured I'd just check. At 4mm up the feed dogs and needle bar did not move. Tomorrow I will bring it into spec according to the adler 269-373 service manual. I do already have all of the manuals printed out and organized in a binder. I did that the evening I brought the machine home. The other thing I in the video was what looks to be called the pressure piece. I noticed mine is broken on 1 side. See pic. I will look into getting a new one but if it ends up being a pain I may end up making one out of aluminum. Thank you for the help so far. I know this is an old post, I had to make a new such piece myself when I bought my 267-373 years ago. Made it from a piece of hard plastic, the old way with saw and file. Then I ordered one from my local DA dealer, price was under 10 US$. Lesson learned, check availability first. By the way, even when your machine may not be supported anymore. This part is the same on the newer machines , 267, 268 and 269. Maybe on more models too. Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
AlZilla Posted February 22 Report Posted February 22 On 2/19/2025 at 3:14 PM, ibrahim said: Hello everyone, I have a durkopp adler 269 sewing machine. When I sew back after a straight stitch, the thread gathers at the bottom and I couldn't find a solution. If there is a photo or video, I would like to see it. Best regards @ibrahim You'd be better off starting a new thread rather than tagging in on an old one. You'll get more attention. Also a pic or two so people can actually see what's going on. Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
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