Roper Wallet Pocket Problems

[ArkieNewbie]

I just made my first roper wallet. It has 6 pockets down each side. The problem is that I have a big bulge in the middle where the majority of the pockets overlap. What did I do wrong?

I have a potential solution of making "t pockets". I think if I make the pockets like the drawing below and then drop the next pocket down to where the first pocket angles in that should fix my problem. Am I overcomplicating this?

[mike02130]

The T-pockets ought to be skived thinly to eliminate bulk.  If you go with what you have drawn, your cards will teeter totter because it's so narrow.  You'll still have a bulge but now only narrower.  Skive is the way.

You have some sort of V-pocket going on there which will make it bulkier.  I suggest a T-pocket.  It has "ears" which instead of overlapping, they sit flush with each other along the stitch line.  You would still want to skive though.

Edited December 6, 2022 by mike02130
add stuff

[GrampaJoel]

There will always be a bulge of some kind even with t-pockets. 
skiving will eliminate quite a bit of the bulge but not all.

the closest I have come to eliminating the bulge is by using nylon glued or sewn to the 

(’T’ ) part of the T-pockets.

[Danne]

When it comes to pockets (without lining, and not folded edges) These are the three most common solutions.

1. V-shape, skived edges and a little bit of overlap for the next pocket (Overlap have the benefit that you don't see a gap between pockets, but can be tricky to skive so it looks good)

2. T-shape with overlap.

3. T-shape without overlap.

Orange = Where you need to skive, how much you skive depend on the leather weight and your skill with the skiving knife/french edge/skiving machine

Green = A good solution, let's say the thickness of the leather you use are 1mm (2.5oz) you skive down this part to around half of the thickness. If you use stiffer veg tan this is relatively easy to do with a sharp french edger. Or if you have a bell knife skiving machine it makes it easier for softer leather.

Ps. burnish the back side of the leather with Tokonole or similar, it makes the surface a little stiffer and makes the shape of the pocket under less visible, works good for veg tan and a lot of combination tanned leathers. (Do this before you cut of the shape of the pocket, or you might distort it)

Edited December 6, 2022 by Danne

[Danne]

Here is an example where I overlap t-pockets. Now this is a fully lined construction (so it's 0.45-0.5mm leather that are skived for the pocket before it's glued together, but I do it in the same way, just more finicky to skive thinner leather)

0.5mm leather for card pocket

 

[ArkieNewbie]

Thank you to all three of you! Very good info. @GrampaJoel @mike02130

@Danne , thank you for the visuals! You're option 3 is what I had pictured in my head. The leather I have for my pockets is a 2/3oz. veg tanned. I have a set of French edgers so skiving down the edges should be a pretty decent option. I'm not super skilled with them yet but I am getting better. Making belt keepers has helped me with my skiving skills. Would it be recommended to skive down the edges of my wallet back as well? I am using a piece of 2/4oz. Hermann Oak veg tanned for the back.  

I had someone order a roper wallet last night so this will be a good "trial by fire".  

[Danne]

17 minutes ago, ArkieNewbie said:

Thank you to all three of you! Very good info. @GrampaJoel @mike02130

@Danne , thank you for the visuals! You're option 3 is what I had pictured in my head. The leather I have for my pockets is a 2/3oz. veg tanned. I have a set of French edgers so skiving down the edges should be a pretty decent option. I'm not super skilled with them yet but I am getting better. Making belt keepers has helped me with my skiving skills. Would it be recommended to skive down the edges of my wallet back as well? I am using a piece of 2/4oz. Hermann Oak veg tanned for the back.  

I had someone order a roper wallet last night so this will be a good "trial by fire".  

It doesn't have to look "perfect" since it's hidden, even a safety beveler would probably do a good job in veg tan. Where to skive can sometimes be tricky, when you skive, you want to do it where it doesn't have a huge impact on durability, but it also depends on the type of leather and construction, and how you skive, 

Let's take a bi-fold with two pockets on each side. And you want to skive under pocket sections. And this skive is 2mm from the edge, and you stitch 3mm from the edge. The red solution will create a stress point at the edge of the pocket, the green one will have it's last stitch through the full thickness of leather, and a lot less stress on that location.

(Ps, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts and experience from prototypes and such)

[GrampaJoel]

8 hours ago, Danne said:

Here is an example where I overlap t-pockets. Now this is a fully lined construction (so it's 0.45-0.5mm leather that are skived for the pocket before it's glued together, but I do it in the same way, just more finicky to skive thinner leather)

0.5mm leather for card pocket

 

Ooooohh. I need some pink leather just like that for a wallet.

will you share with me what type of leather it is?

thanks

Joel

[Danne]

8 minutes ago, GrampaJoel said:

Ooooohh. I need some pink leather just like that for a wallet.

will you share with me what type of leather it is?

thanks

Joel

It's goat leather Alran Sully, color is rose. rmleathersupply is the US distributor. Really nice leather, good tear strength, and combination tanned and have a good feel to it.

Edited December 6, 2022 by Danne

[GrampaJoel]

2 minutes ago, Danne said:

It's goat leather Alran Sully, color is rose. rmleathersupply is the US distributor. Really nice leather, good tear strength, and combination tanned and have a good feel to it.

Thank you, thank you VERY MUCH!!

Joel