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AlZilla

Other things that affect hook timing, Singer 111W

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I'm working on my 111W153 and reading lots of resources.  Somewhere on this forum someone mentioned that another adjustment went hand in hand with hook timing (can't remember what, offhand).

I'm wondering if there's an order of operations or list of other adjustments to make when looking at hook timing on these 111 machines?

My timing seems to be right on but I'm not entirely convinced something else doesn't need to be tweaked.

Thanks

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You mean the needle bar height or needle to hook distance?? From my experience when you read the 111w manual you have the right order of what to do first.

Edited by Constabulary

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2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

You mean the needle bar height or needle to hook distance?? From my experience when you read the 111w manual you have the right order of what to do first.

Well, neither of those really.  I thought somewhere I read that the feed dog adjustment could affect hook timing.  It makes a kind of sense that the different systems on the sewing machine can affect each other.  For example, setting the needle bar height is necessary before setting hook timing.  I just wondered if there were other things to check before setting the timing.

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Watch this video and the part 2 video. 

 

This is the best explanation of how to go through all the adjustments on a triple feed walking foot machine. It is demonstrated on a Consew 206rb5 but I've used it on my Singer 111w155 in combination with the Singer service manual to get my machine in tune. 

Sorry the video started in the middle. It was where I saved it.

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2 hours ago, vpd66 said:

This is the best explanation of how to go through all the adjustments on a triple feed walking foot machine. It is demonstrated on a Consew 206rb5 but I've used it on my Singer 111w155 in combination with the Singer service manual

Cool. Thanks for this.

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No problem. If your half way mechanically inclined, able to follow directions, then I see no reason why you can't get these types of machine sewing with the videos.

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Before you start re-timing make sure to check that the timing belt is on correctly.You do this by turning the machine until the takeup is all the way up,then tilt the machine back & look @ the collar on the middle shaft,it has an arrow on it that should line up with the arrow on the thin piece of metal just to the right of it.Here's a manual you can read about it here.

111W152_W153_W154_W155+INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

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Thanks, guys.  I have it stitching pretty fair at this point.  I have just a little bit of top thread peeking onto the bottom. Next time I get to sit down with it, I'm going to loosen that bottom tension a 1/16th turn and see how it goes.

I haven't gone through all the adjustments yet but it's my next step. Make sure everything is at baseline.

Edited by AlZilla

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12 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

Before you start re-timing make sure to check that the timing belt is on correctly.You do this by turning the machine until the takeup is all the way up,then tilt the machine back & look @ the collar on the middle shaft,it has an arrow on it that should line up with the arrow on the thin piece of metal just to the right of it.Here's a manual you can read about it here.

Thank you. I went through that timing belt process a few months back when I first got the machine.  I didn't know how much resistance there should be turning it freehand, but it seemed a little tight. It had been sitting for a decade or more.  So I took the belt off in order to turn the top and bottom independently and isolate where any tightness was happening. I found that each the top and bottom rotated pretty freely with the belt off and decided the tightness was just the belt.  It runs free and easy with the motor.

I'm going to go through the process outlined in the above videos and check each adjustment before I try too much stitching. Partly as self-education and to be as sure as I can that the machine is as close to factory fresh settings as I'm able.

 

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12 hours ago, AlZilla said:

Thank you. I went through that timing belt process a few months back when I first got the machine.  I didn't know how much resistance there should be turning it freehand, but it seemed a little tight. It had been sitting for a decade or more.  So I took the belt off in order to turn the top and bottom independently and isolate where any tightness was happening. I found that each the top and bottom rotated pretty freely with the belt off and decided the tightness was just the belt.  It runs free and easy with the motor.

I'm going to go through the process outlined in the above videos and check each adjustment before I try too much stitching. Partly as self-education and to be as sure as I can that the machine is as close to factory fresh settings as I'm able.

 

We've found some of the belts off ebay & other suppliers might be tight & only use a name brand which cost alittle more but well worth it to have a smooth running machine that spins freely.

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