Locking in machine stitches

[Teradee]

Hi everyone!

I’ve been saddle stitching a while and it works great and importantly it rarely budges once finished. 
 

I’ve recently started machine sewing and my question is this…I normally add a lock stitch to beginning and end, I sometimes groove for the stitches to sit down in, and hammer it when done. 
 

With all of that, it still seems like it’s on the verge of coming apart.  Are there additional ways to really lock that stitch line down?  CA glue?  Something else help??

 

thanks for any tips!

 

Jason

[kgg]

12 minutes ago, Teradee said:

With all of that, it still seems like it’s on the verge of coming apart.

What size of thread are you using with what needle size? Usually I back stitch about four or five.

kgg

[Michael Sheldon]

Back stitching usually takes care of the issue for me, but on some items that may get higher stress, or back stitching is awkward, I've been known to cut the threads long, and hand-backstitch a couple holes with a saddle stitch.

[GrampaJoel]

When machine sewing, I used to back stitch a few stitches and melt the threads on the back side.

I only do hand stitching now. But I often do it the same way. I don’t use cotton thread.

has always worked for me.

[Teradee]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

What size of thread are you using with what needle size? Usually I back stitch about four or five.

kgg

Im using pretty heavy thread....bonded nylon, size 138.  I think the need is a 20 or 22?

2 minutes ago, GrampaJoel said:

When machine sewing, I used to back stitch a few stitches and melt the threads on the back side.

I only do hand stitching now. But I often do it the same way. I don’t use cotton thread.

has always worked for me.

i do all of these often as well, but i havent tried leaving it long and hand back stitching.   that might be nice as back stitching often looks a little messy

 

[Teradee]

11 minutes ago, Michael Sheldon said:

Back stitching usually takes care of the issue for me, but on some items that may get higher stress, or back stitching is awkward, I've been known to cut the threads long, and hand-backstitch a couple holes with a saddle stitch.

i hadnt considered that for some reason!  thanks for the recommendation!

[kgg]

40 minutes ago, Teradee said:

Im using pretty heavy thread....bonded nylon, size 138.  I think the need is a 20 or 22?

A good thread size to needle size can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). For V138 you need a # 22 in thin and either a #23 or #24 in thicker / tougher leather. The #20 will not provide the correct size hole to allow the thread to move through it properly. That will cause tension problems and slipped stitches.

Also are you doing a drop test on the bobbin to get the bobbin tension close?

kgg

[Teradee]

46 minutes ago, kgg said:

A good thread size to needle size can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). For V138 you need a # 22 in thin and either a #23 or #24 in thicker / tougher leather. The #20 will not provide the correct size hole to allow the thread to move through it properly. That will cause tension problems and slipped stitches.

Also are you doing a drop test on the bobbin to get the bobbin tension close?

kgg

yessir!  but i have to be totally honest here....i fiddle with everything so much to get everything "dialed in"...the split second the stitch "looks right", I forbid my kids from breathing on or near the sewing machine until im done.  Sometimes the bobbin passes the drop test...sometimes its loose.  If it looks correct, I dont change it.  

Sooooo...would that cause sub-par stitches or snug stitches perhaps?  (snug meaning nice, secure stitches)

[kgg]

26 minutes ago, Teradee said:

Sooooo...would that cause sub-par stitches or snug stitches perhaps?  (snug meaning nice, secure stitches)

Yes. Every time you change thread spools, manufacturers of thread, thread size, needle size change or even changing the color of thread from a white to black (black is stiffer) you need to recheck the bobbin tension. Cheap Chinese thread in my experience is usually of poor quality. I have even had a needle break because of poor quality thread that I using in a pinch. They ran out of thread part way through spooling the cone so they they just joined the two end by tieing a knot to finish the spool. The needle broke when the knot wouldn't go through the eye.

To much bobbin tension and you wind up not having the bobbin thread being pulled up into the leather while to little tension and the bobbin thread will be on the top side of the leather. The needle is also important factor as too small a needle for the thread size there isn't enough room for the threads, top and bobbin, to exist in the needle hole and you can get skipped stitches. While to large a needle and the stitch will be sloppy at best. Getting the top and bobbin thread tension right is like two teams having a tug of war with the needle being in the middle.

What machine are you using?

kgg

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Teradee said:

i fiddle with everything so much to get everything "dialed in"...the split second the stitch "looks right", I forbid my kids from breathing on or near the sewing machine until im done. 

If possible add a couple photo's of your thread path from the thread spool to the eye of the needle.

kgg

Edited January 20, 2023 by kgg

[Teradee]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

Yes. Every time you change thread spools, manufacturers of thread, thread size, needle size change or even changing the color of thread from a white to black (black is stiffer) you need to recheck the bobbin tension. Cheap Chinese thread in my experience is usually of poor quality. I have even had a needle break because of poor quality thread that I using in a pinch. They ran out of thread part way through spooling the cone so they they just joined the two end by tieing a knot to finish the spool. The needle broke when the knot wouldn't go through the eye.

To much bobbin tension and you wind up not having the bobbin thread being pulled up into the leather while to little tension and the bobbin thread will be on the top side of the leather. The needle is also important factor as too small a needle for the thread size there isn't enough room for the threads, top and bobbin, to exist in the needle hole and you can get skipped stitches. While to large a needle and the stitch will be sloppy at best. Getting the top and bobbin thread tension right is like two teams having a tug of war with the needle being in the middle.

What machine are you using?

kgg

yeah - ive battled in that tug of war a lot!  .  and ive learned once the knot is tucked into both sides and the stitch looks "correct" then i stop and just start sewing.  Im currently using a brother ls2-b837