Adler 167 Help

[Dave84]

Hi All,

Having an odd issue I cant find much info about, besides the concentric location, of the needle bar on my Adler 167-373.  I just had to rotate it 90 degrees so know the thread guide hole is facing away from me instead of to the left, the needle was hitting the side of the feed dog, snapping needles.  It seemed to just happen out of nowhere, but now its a pain to thread.  Thoughts?  need a new needle bar?

2023-01-24_09-37-41 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr

Next, I'm sampling some wallets machine stitched but I always have this issue, so I thought I'd ask.  The bobbin side of the stitch always comes out super flat and the holes look more shredded.  Using a diamond tip needle with poly thread.  How can I make the bobbin side look as clean as the top?  I do wonder though am I looking for perfection?  I see some machine stitched items out there where both sides look clean.  I've double checked that the loop is centered and it is, the bottom image shows the blow out/tear out.  Refer to above pic as that's the current setup, a zipper foot with the feet smoothed out on a grinder, bottom feed dog never gets changed.

Inside of wallets, faces up while stitching:

2023-01-24_09-37-33 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr

Outer shell faces down, bobbin thread side:

2023-01-24_09-37-25 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr

 

One last thing, looking at a Consew 277-R3 that looks good for $1500.  Should I just buy it as I plan on getting a cylinder arm in the future? I'm impulsive lol

[Dave84]

Anyone have any insight as to why I had to rotate the needle bar?  I'm noticing thread snapping more often, no doubt due to the thread being dragged across sharper angles of metal.

[Michiel]

If your needle or needle bar is not bent, 

my gues is the frame your needle is in is not in the right position.

The frame can taken out so when it is loose or not 100 % in the right position or angle the needle does not meet de needle hole in the middle

I Think its called the needle bar rocker frame

regards, michiel

 

Edited January 30, 2023 by Michiel

[Dave84]

5 hours ago, Michiel said:

If your needle or needle bar is not bent, 

my gues is the frame your needle is in is not in the right position.

The frame can taken out so when it is loose or not 100 % in the right position or angle the needle does not meet de needle hole in the middle

I Think its called the needle bar rocker frame

regards, michiel

 

Thanks Michiel.  I did think MAYBE the bar is bent, but would you know how the frame could get messed up?  I've had this Adler for several years and this issue just started happening.  I have had a few times over the years where needles brake hitting the lower feed dog when I try to stitch too much leather freely, not glued or taped, have learned that lessen.  But a couple weeks ago I had to rotate the bar to get the needle to line up with the hole, it got that bad.  Where can you recommend to start replacing or tuning?

[CowboyBob]

1 hour ago, Dave84 said:

Thanks Michiel.  I did think MAYBE the bar is bent, but would you know how the frame could get messed up?  I've had this Adler for several years and this issue just started happening.  I have had a few times over the years where needles brake hitting the lower feed dog when I try to stitch too much leather freely, not glued or taped, have learned that lessen.  But a couple weeks ago I had to rotate the bar to get the needle to line up with the hole, it got that bad.  Where can you recommend to start replacing or tuning?

What I've seen happen alot on these is the hole elongates (I guess from the needle pushing into the far side away from the screw),loosen the needle set screw & see how much play the hole has in it,I'm betting you need a new needlebar which we do have in stock.

[Michiel]

4 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

What I've seen happen alot on these is the hole elongates (I guess from the needle pushing into the far side away from the screw),loosen the needle set screw & see how much play the hole has in it,I'm betting you need a new needlebar which we do have in stock.

I would start with this suggestion ….

 

and otherwise get the needle bar rocker frame out so you can see if the needle bar is bent

sometimes if you take something out you discover what caused the problem

or, if not, when you clean everything and put it back sometimes the problem is solved (or not)

[Dave84]

Hi all, I'm updating this thread and would like your help.  My Adler has been working just fine on denim, other heavy fabrics and light leather and will keep it for those projects.  Now, after doing several jackets, some perfect, larger percentage still having an issue of wandering needle from deflection at thicker seams causing wavey lines at these joints, although tamed immensely over the years, I'm done with my system of avoiding as best as possible all above.  One comment on another thread mentioned hitting the limit of this Adler 167-373.  These seams can get to a 1/2" unskived on .08mm-1mm leather so what machine would be the next step up for jacket making, bags, wallets?  I'd like to stay with a name brand for easy parts, service and Youtube tutorials.  Thanks

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, Dave84 said:

These seams can get to a 1/2" unskived on .08mm-1mm leather so what machine would be the next step up for jacket making, bags, wallets?

@Dave84

You are one step above a typical walking foot machine's specs. I would point you towards a Juki LU-1508NH. This is a modified production machine that uses a longer system 190 needle and has the geometry to let the feet raise higher both when lifted and in operation. It is rated to sew 1/2 inch with up to T-210 (#207) thread. This machine sells for well over $3,000.

You can also consider a Cowboy CB3200. It is a walking foot machine that sews 1/2 inch with thread sizes 138 through 346. Equipped with a drop down edge guide it will conquer your thick jacket seams without blinking a needle's eye. Plus, it is less expensive than that souped up Juki. This machine is a form of "441" clone that can easily tension heavy thread in the bobbin and on top.

One other walking foot machine that I think can accomplish this is the Cobra Class 26. It would need to be setup to use System 190 needles and is rated to use #210 (207) thread, at least on top (calls for a #24 needle).

If you don't want to change machines, you'll have to crank down the foot pressure screw the squish the thick seams down to 3/8 inch and attach a drop down edge guide, or buy an edge guide outside foot to keep the stitches  in a straight line. Make sure you are using a #23 leather pint needle. I would recommend a tri-point or diamond point in this case.

[Dave84]

14 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

@Dave84

You are one step above a typical walking foot machine's specs. I would point you towards a Juki LU-1508NH. This is a modified production machine that uses a longer system 190 needle and has the geometry to let the feet raise higher both when lifted and in operation. It is rated to sew 1/2 inch with up to T-210 (#207) thread. This machine sells for well over $3,000.

You can also consider a Cowboy CB3200. It is a walking foot machine that sews 1/2 inch with thread sizes 138 through 346. Equipped with a drop down edge guide it will conquer your thick jacket seams without blinking a needle's eye. Plus, it is less expensive than that souped up Juki. This machine is a form of "441" clone that can easily tension heavy thread in the bobbin and on top.

One other walking foot machine that I think can accomplish this is the Cobra Class 26. It would need to be setup to use System 190 needles and is rated to use #210 (207) thread, at least on top (calls for a #24 needle).

If you don't want to change machines, you'll have to crank down the foot pressure screw the squish the thick seams down to 3/8 inch and attach a drop down edge guide, or buy an edge guide outside foot to keep the stitches  in a straight line. Make sure you are using a #23 leather pint needle. I would recommend a tri-point or diamond point in this case.

Thank you Wiz, I will be looking into the first two.  The Juki has been recommended to me several times as well.  On another note, would you happen to know or point me to a source to replace the needle bar on my Adler 167-373?  I cannot find anything nor is the manual clear on what the order of operations are.