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  • Contributing Member
Posted

Yes, You are CORRECT. I zeroed the needle on the needle (250) that came with the machine and then put a 21 needle in it, and it didn't skip a stitch for 20". Sorry, I had to prove that to my hardheaded self. Hard to believe it would sew with the hook that far from the needle. 

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  • Contributing Member
Posted

Thanks for the help @CowboyBob.  I knew I was on my own to get it going when I bought it. It was almost half what ANY dealer would sell me one for.

@DocReaper there's no different size back plates or shims. Although the manual says there's 6 different sizes. CowboyBob said if he could get a shim, it was $350. Not sure why you would ever need the shim although this machine is made in china. If the housing was machined out to far you might need one to push the back plate back over towards the needle.  I thought this was the same machine Cowboy and Cobra are selling. I saw Uwe pull the back plate out of a Cowboy machine on YouTube. That's how I learned how to get it out. The Cobra manual tells you to take it out when cleaning the shuttle area. 

 The new method of shuttle to hook clearance is really cool. You could change the clearance every time you change the needle if you wanted to. It takes less than minute to make that adjustment. I understand @TomE that you don't have to even going from a 28 to 21. But you could in a matter of a minute or less. I set my machine up to just clear a #25 needle and I know it will sew just fine with a #21 just like your machine @TomE. That adjustment should be in the manual you get from the dealer. Even if it will sew going from a 28 needle to a 21 needle you should make that adjustment. I think you could just lower the needle until it comes back up the 3/16" and make that adjustment just by pushing on the needle.  

  • Members
Posted

@Tim Schroeder, sounds like you're up and running with the new machine.  Have fun with it.  I spent most of the past year hand sewing but with all the narrow plates, etc. now available I am learning to do finer sewing on my machine.  It's great to have both options.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Thanks @TomE  pretty good learning experience. I had a Class 4 before the narrow plates. It just wouldn’t do what I needed to. I trade it for that 26 I have. 
Do use the narrow plates?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I never would have believed you could put a #28 in it and then change to a #21 and sew with no problem. I proved it to my self without a doubt it will do it. 

  • Members
Posted

@Tim Schroeder Yes, I've been using @RockyAussie's narrow plate for over a year and like how it feeds heavy and light materials.  Recently bought @Patrick1's extreme narrow plate/dog, and the holster plate with feed dog, to go with #21 needles that Leather Machine Co recently got back in stock.  Looking forward to trying out his narrow "in-line" foot set for raised leather pieces.   I'm going to need a heavier splitter to make purses out of the leftovers from the 9-10 oz bridle leather sides I typically work with. :) 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I think I finally got it all right. 

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  • Contributing Member
Posted
On 2/1/2023 at 1:14 PM, Tim Schroeder said:

Bob also sent me this.

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So when I moved the needle to left, using this method, it left play in the walking foot bar.

Posted
16 minutes ago, Tim Schroeder said:

So when I moved the needle to left, using this method, it left play in the walking foot bar.

That might be because you didn't loosen screw #31 & move part# 30 to the left.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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