441 presser foot “locked”

[robygen]

good evening, I have a problem with the presser foot of my 441 clone.  it doesn't move.  I have searched and read on the forum about similar problems, but the proposed solutions do not work.  can anyone help me?

[TomE]

Not sure about locked feet, but this video from @Uwe was a great help for setting the timing of the walking foot mechanism. 

 

Edited January 31, 2023 by TomE

[robygen]

2 hours ago, TomE said:

Not sure about locked feet, but this video from @Uwe was a great help for setting the timing of the walking foot mechanism. 

Thank you, I’ve already tried it but preser foot still doesn’t move

[RockyAussie]

@robygen There are a LOT of possible reasons that could cause this and to help narrow this down it would help to have some pictures or even better a video showing what is happening. Have you used the machine alright previously or not? Do you have both feet attached? When you say the presser foot does not move do you mean they will not lift? or will not move forward and back?

[robygen]

Thank you, now presser foot problem seems to be solved, I followed again video instructions.

BUT…

 

now the thread is torn from the needle after a few stitches ... It seems to be a tension problem ...?  :-(

[TomE]

23 minutes ago, robygen said:

now the thread is torn from the needle after a few stitches ... It seems to be a tension problem ...?  :-(

Try a new needle and rethreading.  Check that bobbin is feeding normally.  Also check the hook for burrs and polish if needed.  I recently needed to increase needle size from #24 to #25 with a new hide that was slightly thicker than my usual work.  The thread (277/207) was fraying on top and using a bigger needle fixed it.  Needle size and leather thickness/temper are part of the tension equation.

Edited February 1, 2023 by TomE

[kgg]

48 minutes ago, robygen said:

now the thread is torn from the needle after a few stitches ... It seems to be a tension problem ...?  

What size of needle are you using and in how thick is the material? In thick / tough stuff you may have to move up to a #26 needle. A good reference thread to needle size can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Top thread fraying at the needle more then likely indicates the top thread is being frayed because there isn't enough room for the needle, the bobbin thread and the top thread in the hole created by the needle.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, robygen said:

now the thread is torn from the needle after a few stitches

While too much thread tension can be a factor, another cause could be the tip of the hook catching between the windings of the thread and splitting them open. There are only a few ways this could happen.

1. There is a burr on the tip of the hook.
2. The hook is hitting the needle instead of just passing through the scarf without contacting it.
3. The hook is too far from the needle causing it to fray the loop.
4. The thread is poorly bonded and has twisted loose as the needle moves up from BDC.
5. The thread is overly bonded and comes off the spool like a coil spring. This can cause the loop to turn away from the hook.
6. The thread is right twist instead of left twist.
7. The check spring travel is too short, which causes too much slack in the top thread.
8. The check spring tension is too light, with the same outcome.
9. The timing is late, causing the hook to barely pick off the loop, which gets tighter with each stitch.
10. The timing is early, causing the hook to arrive before a quality loop has formed. Loop gets split as hook barely catches it.
11. The foot pressure is too low, allowing the leather to lift with the needle. This can also cause skipped stitches.

 

[robygen]

thank you very much everyone, I will make a few attempts following the instructions you have given me :-)