Still trying to learn carving.

[gregintenn]

Thank you for the advice as well. I believe you are correct that my leather was too wet.

You quoted me saying something I did not say.

[Tim Schroeder]

Yes, your correct, sorry about that.  I apologize. No edit button. Can't fix it now.  It was @Goldshot Ron that made that statement. It was just one of ID 10T computer errors. Sorry. 

[Tim Schroeder]

Sorry about that @gregintenn I have contacted @Northmount and asked him to delete that post. Hopefully he will since it does actually contain misinformation. 

[gregintenn]

It isn’t any big deal. I just knew I’d never say anything like that.

[gregintenn]

 

 

While it's still a disaster, I feel like drier leather and a sharper knife did indeed help. As long as I'm improving, I'll probably keep practicing. Maybe I've found something I just can't do.

I surely appreciate all the suggestions and advice.

 

 

[Tim Schroeder]

We’ll get you there don’t worry

[sparctek]

1 hour ago, gregintenn said:

 

 

While it's still a disaster, I feel like drier leather and a sharper knife did indeed help. As long as I'm improving, I'll probably keep practicing. Maybe I've found something I just can't do.

I surely appreciate all the suggestions and advice.

 

 

I am not an expert by any means, but can offer something that helped me improve my swivel knife work.  When I first started, my hand would cramp up after just a few minutes of cutting. I finally figured out my knife was set too short and to compensate I had a very tight grip on the barrel with all my fingers. That made it hard to turn smoothly and it made my hand cramp up. I experimented with various lengths (adjustable knife) but it wasn't until I saw a video from Gordon Andrus that I was finally able to set a good length that felt comfortable and allowed me to turn and run the swivel knife with much less effort and no more cramping.  Here is a link to the video:

The other things already mentioned are definitely important. I just thought this may help  you as it did me.

[chuck123wapati]

Your holster is pretty good for the first time!!

An old cook told me once "patience makes the best sauce" Take your time , let your leather case out properly no matter how long or how you soak it, spray it, dip it in one toe at time, whatever super secret expert advice, I use Bobs method too, sometimes  sometimes not.  Cut an extra scrap of the same leather to test on, jab it with your finger nail or stamp, something every once in a while until you see it creating the right impressions, they should be crisp and darker in color and most importantly they don't show signs of fading or popping back out.

One thing to look for If your leather is to wet or your knife to dull it will make the swivel knife stick and jerk along as your try and cut.so if you feel that jerkiness then you know one of two things are hampering you.

Al Stohlman will never lead you a stray you can get his books cheaply, some for free in the Tandy library!!! 

And my last suggestions on learning this craft, you will be using and looking at designs created by people who have been tooling for most of their natural life so don't expect your work to look as good for quite awhile. Just have fun with it and realize you will create your own personal techniques as you go. Also make some stuff without tooling too so you can learn the basics of sewing , dying,  finishing etc.   most of my tooling is still on scraps i usually do two or three practice pieces before committing to the final piece.

Good luck to you my friend we all started just like you at one time and are very willing to help. 

[JLSleather]

Leather too wet is prolly the most common mistake made by new guys - maybe we jus in a hurry to git goin'?

But I'll throw ONE MORE wrench in the mix here bout moisture content of the leather.  I do it different ways, largely depending on the thickness of the leather. 

About 4 oz or less, I add water to the FLESH SIDE with a sponge, lay it on the marble (or granite, or whatever).  Since the rock is impervious, the moisture must go THROUGH the leather to evaporate... which is all you need to tool.  Works every time.

 

 

 

 

Git up in the 7/8 oz range (or so, again, not a hard line rule), I add that same "back" water, but also wet the front (though not as heavily).  As you can guess, this causes the water on the underside to go out more slowly, thus "soaking' a bit more. 

 

And it continues up as the thickness increases.  Until you get to FORMING leather, and at that point I don't think there's such a thing as "too much" water.  And SOMETIMES, leather needs to be formed BEFORE its tooled, so a guy might have to FORM the leather, then let it dry out some to do the tooling.

 

SOME POINTS HERE:

I use water.  Not soap. Not dishwasher.  Not saddle soap. Not super glue.  WATER.

In the 'early days', I read Stohlman's book on belts, said to put a belt strip in the sink until it stops making bubbles.  SO I did.  I got tired and went to bed and that thing still was nowhere near "return to original color"

"Cool to the touch" means ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.  My shop is like 65° mostly.  The guy with the 80° shop with think MY leather is "cool to the touch" at ALL TIMES and therefore "ready" to tool, even when it is not.  In fact, if his shop is 15° warmer than mine, HE should git bizy, cuz his leather gonna dry BEFORE mine does.

All leather is NOT created equal.  Git GOOD leather.  If your leather isn't right, then how you "case" it won't fix it.  This is THE #1 issue at all times.  If you dn't know good leather yet, ASK somebody who does. You can usually tell who that is,.... they're showing you well-made leather but not trying to sell you some

 

[gregintenn]

 

I'm still struggling with the swivel knife, but am beginning to figure it out...maybe.

Once again I'd like to express my appreciation to all who've offered advice and suggestions.