Bersa Thunder . 380 Inlay attempt

[Bert03241]

2 hours ago, Hags said:

Use a smaller drill bit, then run the awl though.  Or, run a groove or line on the back and watch where the awl is coming out. As long as you don't pierce the leather, you can adjust. Then wet it and hammer it down. That shrinks the holes a bit as well. I tend to make my holsters a bit wider between the slots. It feels more comfortable for me as it spreads the load. I don't skive the back of the loops,  but do use a 1/4" x 1 1/2" (large paint stick)with rounded edges to slide in during the later part of wet molding to arc the holster and pull the ends down and in. Hope this helps, everyone is a bit different.

definitely will use a smaller bit and pierce with an awl on the next one thanks for all the great suggestions guys.  

[Bert03241]

2 hours ago, Gezzer said:

Maybe draw the inside lines on you  paper/card stock pattern where you can erase if needed .Once you like them  mark with a round awl as you trace your over all pattern . I have to get stuff right " on paper " all of the time but it saves me some leather .

I do the design in corel and transfer to the laser so everything is were its suppose to be . maybe I can dial down the power and laser lines on paper then do like you said. thanks

hags are you sewing by hand or machine? I sew by hand and my thread is much heavier then machine thread I think.

[Hags]

I use a cobra class 3, arthritis. I use 277 bonded nylon top and bottom. You can use a smaller thread. Look at Maine thread company,  they have many sizes of thread.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Hags

[Bert03241]

I actually have an assortment pac of thread from them, different   colors and sizes

[Hags]

4 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

I actually have an assortment pac of thread from them, different   colors and sizes

I want to get some of their braided and try that as well.