Build Along - Letter Box

[Brokenolmarine]

I went out to the Woodshop a couple days ago with the intent of making another custom cane, for something to do.  I have a couple already, but the idea hit again after watching a few videos.  I was going to make a black walnut cane with maple inlay.  I found a nice 2x2 piece of black walnut and started to plane away the gunk that builds up when the wood is stored for a few (ten?) years.  Then, as the grain started to appear, I was shocked... that walnut, was mahogany. 

I am nothing if not flexible, and I decided on the fly that this wood would NOT become that cane.   Also on my project list was a storage box for the LETTER stamps for the leather bench.  This would do nicely.  I had been keeping the stamp heads in the factory foam tray, what a pain in the ... um... behind. I had the design in my head for a while.  This would be perfect.  Normally I would do nearly all the work with hand tools, but Arthur was visiting and I would add the Table Saw to the task.  Since I had a few 3D stamps as well, I laid them out on the granite and played with the layout until I was happy, then measured until I knew the size I needed.

[Brokenolmarine]

I cut a piece of the mahogany long enough to accommodate the 13-1/8 x 3-1/2 I needed.  Then I set the blade depth for the dados I wanted.  I ran the edges against the fence on the saw, rotated the wood 180 degrees and ran across the blade again.  I had two parallel dados on one side.  Now, rotate the wood 180 degrees and repeat.  Now I have two sets of dados on opposite sides of the wood.  Rotate the wood 90 degrees and mark the centerline down the length.  Set the blade and rip down the center.  BOOM, sides.

I repeated the process with the leftover wood and now had sides for two boxes.  I set up the chop saw and cut the 45 degree angles to make box joints.  As always, I test fitted the sides.

The rectangular box will be the letter box, so I tested it's fit around the letter layout.  Perfect.

[Brokenolmarine]

Next up was cutting the dual panels to fit the dados.  The box will be glued together with the panels in place and then the shaping and sanding will take place.  Much easier to do with the box whole, it's more stable than trying to do with a base and lid.  Once the box is almost complete, you run the box over the table saw blade, using the fence to insure consistancy.  Run the long sides first, push in wedges and tape to secure, then cut the short sides.

The letter box will get a carved/tooled leather insert on top.  The square-ish box will get a spalted maple insert on top and go to the wife as a gift.  She can use it to keep sewing accessories in for her She Shed (or Bitch Barn as the Daughter calls it.)  I have some beautifully grained spalted maple to accent that mahogany.  Her shop was set up from a bare building we ordered, then finished the inside.  It's very nice.

 

[Chux]

I thought you made a leather mailbox!! Lmao

[Brokenolmarine]

That would be cool, inside an apartment hallway... until some punk trashed it because they were jealous.  (30 years in LE, yup, someone would. )

[Brokenolmarine]

Funny thing about the She Shed... that door WAS gloss white, but when the Oklahoma sun would hit it in the afternoon... the refected glare would come right thru the back door like a laser and blind me.  I told Miss T she could either live with keeping the back door and the back door blinds closed after lunch, or choose a flat dark color for the door. 

Edited March 7, 2023 by Brokenolmarine

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Brokenolmarine said:

She Shed (or Bitch Barn as the Daughter calls it.)

Just about split my sides when I read that. Nice building.

kgg

[Brokenolmarine]

Out in the shop for a session this afternoon.  I used some time fitting and planing, fitting and planing until I got the wife's box right, then pressure fitted it to insure all was right.  Since this box was made from excess, the long sides were slightly thicker than the short sides and they had to be planed down to the same thickness.  The thing about handmade, especially those with handtools, is that you hand fit things.  Part of the pleasure of the task.

 

The pressure fit check is important because you apply pressure during glue up.  If you hand check all the joints and they look great, then apply pressure...  ... sometimes they don't look so great any longer.  Next up I pressure checked the Letter Box.  It matches up fine.  I am looking at the inside edges.  The outside edges and the top edges will be adjusted (planed or whatever) after the glue up.)  As you can see in the pic below, the right hand short side is a tad higher.  I'll clamp the box down and plane that smooth after.

Both boxes were broken down, and the pieces carefully laid out to maintain their position.  Glue was applied to all eight corner contacts and ONE side of each of the panels for each of the two boxes, and they were reassembled.  Once this was done the clamps were applied and tightened just enough to take the slack.  Then the boxes were adjusted to square up the inside edges.  Than pressure slowly applied until you could pluck the strap.

They will be left in the band clamps while I work on the two inserts, give them plenty of time to set.  Then the clamps will be removed and the real work begins. 

[Sheilajeanne]

16 hours ago, Brokenolmarine said:

Her shop was set up from a bare building we ordered, then finished the inside.  It's very nice.

That is VERY nice indeed! I especially like the dragonfly decoration - nice touch!

[PastorBob]

Very nice indeed!

[doubleh]

Great little box.. Woodworking is another of my hobbies and I like seeing nice work.

[Gezzer]

Very nice and I for one appreciate the " hand planed " aspect !!!

[Mulesaw]

Great looking box, I thought it was a mailbox at first too.

I really like the hobby barn It looks like there is some serious sewing being done there!
 

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Today's session was all about the insert for the wife's box.  I started by looking for the right piece of wood.  I found a nice burled piece, but kept looking and BOOM... a VERY nice spalted piece jumped out and cried, "Use Me, Use Me."  It was perfect.  As you can see by the pencil line down the right side, the first step was going to be getting a fairly straight edge to work from.

I started by running it across the table saw freehand, moving very slowly and trying to stay right with the line. 

I then checked it by clamping it in the vise and checking the edge with a known straight edge on a good rule.  (They aren't ALL straight.  )  It was a tad off.  To the plane boss, the plane.... 

You plane a bit, then recheck, plane a bit, then recheck.  All this is to insure you have a flat, square edge to run along the fence on the table saw.  We are wanting to fit this in the top of the box and don't want gaps.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

With a nice square edge, I measured the width and set the table saw fence and ripped the piece to width.  (Close)  Then test fitted the width.  Just a bit wide.  I tapped the fence just a hair, and ripped it again.  Still just a hair.  A tiny tap and one more pass.  Perfect width.  Same game with the length.  Two passes got it.

Now they were mated.  I ran a SHARP pencil around the inlay, marking the fit.  Time to roll the edges.  Clamped 'er back in the vise and got out the molding plane, and using the pencil mark as my guide, rolled the edges to meet that line.  Rotate, roll an edge, rotate, roll an edge til you are done.  I could have done it a lot faster with a router, but ... NOISEY, and a router at that high speed can grab and tear spalted wood.  Plus I like the whisp sound that sharp plane makes. 

There is a bunch of sanding left to do, and shaping on the mahogany... but next session I'll cut the leather for the inlay on the other box, and carve/tool that piece.   Looking forward to that one.

[Gezzer]

NICE !!!!!!!!!  I love the molding plane , is the iron made from an old file ?

The splatted maple is beautiful !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have in the past toe-screwed a known straight board on the off side to get that initial table saw cut , it just has to be wider than your stock .

Edited March 9, 2023 by Gezzer

[Brokenolmarine]

2 hours ago, Gezzer said:

NICE !!!!!!!!!  I love the molding plane , is the iron made from an old file ?

The splatted maple is beautiful !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have in the past toe-screwed a known straight board on the off side to get that initial table saw cut , it just has to be wider than your stock .

I bought a dozen of the molding planes with a variety of iron profiles, from Lee Valley Tools in Canada.  They are antiques.  They were used to make...ah... moldings for baseboards, crown moldings for ceilings, trim... whatever.   If you watch some of the woodworking shows, some of the guys will have shelves filled with them.  I actually was VERY lucky to have them.  About six or eight months after we bought the farmhouse here in Oklahoma, the "new" bathroom addition the previous owner had added developed serious leaks.  He thought he was a carpenter and a plumber.  He was neither. He tended to use "Used" components whenever possible and had used old water line NOT rated for hot water.  It would swell when it carried hot water and leak, then shrink back.  Swell and leak, then shrink back.  It was specifically banned for use, but he found a lot of it somewhere and all the hot water lines in the place had to be redone.

Unfortunately, the water damage ruined the surround around the jacuzzi garden tub, and severely damaged the base to the bathroom vanity.  A granite topped double sink.  We had planned to just replace it.  But... it would have cost $1300 for the base alone, about twice that for the complete vanity. 

Water damaged base:  Note the cracked paint and the damage UP the dividers and the swelling in the "floor" of the vanity.

When we attempted to remove the base of the vanity, it just fell apart.  The bulk of the vanity was partical board and had acted like a sponge soaking up the water.

We used cabinet grade plywood to make a new base, but new trim was not available, so I had to buy the wood, cut it to the proper width, and using two molding planes in combination, create matching molding.  The process took a while as the bases for the pedestal feet had to be countersunk into the new base, and the molding precisely fitted.  Note the areas where I cut out damage to the interior walls and damage to the face.

[Brokenolmarine]

Over a week, using a LOT of the tools available in the shop, I rebuilt the vanity.  In the pic below, you can see the molding has been painted, and the areas in need of repair inside have been patched and painted.  ONE area on the face still needs painted white.  The doors in the background on the far table have their first coat.

 

It was a lot of work, but it saved a LOT of money, and the molding planes made it possible.  Miss Tina said to go ahead and try, she wasn't sure it was salvageable.  I told her I could do it, and a LOT cheaper than the cost of the replacement base.  In the final picture the bathroom lighting makes the completed vanity look ivory/yellow, but it's white.  Crappy lighting, which we later replaced, but it turned out great.  You'd never know it was damaged.

I love the molding planes.  Here are the bulk of them.

Another profile:

The plane storage for my other planes....

Some of the planes I used a LOT, and some I rarely touch, but when you need one, you need it.  Often, it's just the thing.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Out in the shop again this afternoon, this time to work on the letterbox insert.  First step was to measure the inlay area on the top of the box.  I got 12-5/8 x 3"  found a nice piece of leather in the bin and squared an edge then cut it to width.  Squared an end and cut it to length.  Made sure NOT to undercut.  It fit nicely.

After casing, I transferred the design to the leather using a Belt Template from Tandy's collection...  I like this one as it will let me work the 3D magic as best I can.    Oak Leaves and Acorns.

The leather was longer than the template, but it allows for a seamless interlocking of the design and careful transfer means you can use as much or as little as you like from the pattern template.  The next step was to cut in the transferred design.  You can see how much difference that makes comparing the two.  With the tight curves on this pattern I used a 1/8" blade, with a sharp angle to it.

 

The leather was so well cased that the reference lines from the template can be lightly seen at the edge of the design.  In some cases, this might be an issue, but they will be covered when I do the background so they are not a concern.

[Brokenolmarine]

Slow and easy is the name of my game.  I am not GOOD at this yet, so I have to go Slooooow.  but, after about an hour, my arthritic hands and I got the pattern cut in.  That will be all for us today.  Tomorrow we will start with the tooling.  I am hoping all the practice will make these leaves and acorns come alive. 

[Brokenolmarine]

I spent a couple hours in the shop today, working to bring the two dimensional design to life.  The first hour or so, tooling on the design.  Still not where I want to be, but happy that my skills have improved a lot.  I didn't spend a lot of time with the lifters like I would have on something that would see a lot of light.  This will sit on the shelf in my private workshop.  But I still tried to create that 3D effect as much as possible. 

The next hour or so was spent with a small detail brush, working on dying the pattern.  Of course, I didn't work on the panel IN the box.  I had it on the workbench.  I will let the dyes dry, then put on a resistance coat, and antique.  That will tone down the colors, and highlight the detail.  A coat of Watco oil will provide finish and a richness to the leather as well.  Once I have applied a couple coats of finish, I'll wax it.  It should compliment the mahogany box once IT's done.

[Brokenolmarine]

Worked in the shop for a while today, Sanding the maple insert by hand.  Started at 120, then 220, and then to 325 grit. This was 120, but by the time I was all the way thru the progression it was looking pretty good.

I always save the offcuts from the builds until the project is completely finished, and there is a reason.  I use them to test various aspects of the finishes, or in case I need to use the plug cutter to make plugs or cut wedges.  Always nice to match the wood.  In this case, I wanted to decide if the Golden Oak base would improve the look of the maple, or to go with JUST the natural.  A test piece would answer that question.  Finished on side of the offcut in the combo and one straight.  Both Miss T and I preferred the fuller, more rich color of the Golden Oak combo.

So, I finished sanding out the inlay, including filling a pinhole in one end prior to sanding... then wiped it down to remove the sanding dust.  A base of Golden Oak Watco Oil followed by two coats of Natural Oil... and left to dry.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Then, I turned to the boxes.  First they were clamped to the bench and the high areas were planed to match the profiles of the other edges.  Then I used a molding tool to roll the edges and corners.  Finally everything was sanded to blend the edges and corners.  I left the edges for the inside corners sharp as they will receive the inlays.

I will do some final hand sanding tomorrow, and then we'll be ready to make those (Pucker Factor) Separation Passes over the table saw.  Once that is done, I'll touch up the freshly cut edges and then move to the final phases.  The "Sewing Room" box will get inserts to align the top and it will simply sit on the top of the box.  The Letter Box will get hinges and a latch of some sort.  The letter box will also get interior treatments.  A bit more still to come.

[Brokenolmarine]

A peek at the leather insert... I spent an hour on IT yesterday as well.  Antiquing and putting on two coats of sheen finish.  Looking pretty good.  Toned down the colors.  I put the antique on heavy and then slowly worked it off using q-tips, taking much more off on the high areas then concentrating on some of the lower areas to insure it didn't stay too dark.  I'm fairly happy. 

[Brokenolmarine]

Back out today, ready to pucker up.  The first step was to set up the distance from the fence to the blade.  Again, saved the cutoffs and used a piece with the dados to set up.

I made the first passes on the LONG side, on both boxes, then cut spacers from the right thickness of cardboard, and wrapped the boxes in tape, high enough that the tape wouldn't interfere with contact of the fence. 

Then prepared to cut the short sides.  One hand and the featherboard would insure constant contact and position, the other would use a push stick to guide the box across the blade for safety.