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Buttraxx

Changing G Bobbin to M Bobbin

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Hello ... I am looking for a technician that can change a g bobbin to a m-bobbin.  Looking for a technician in the central Florida area.   This for a Consew 226

Thank you in advanc

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7 hours ago, Buttraxx said:

I am looking for a technician that can change a g bobbin to a m-bobbin. 

Any industrial sewing machine repair shop probably can do this but the general conversion project will require:

i) the timing belt needs to be removed

ii) the lower shaft needs to be removed so the hook saddle can removed

iii) the hook saddle will need to be machine milled out to accept the larger hook

iv) the bobbin case opener needs to be changed

v) the take-up lever has also has to be changed so the head assembly needs to be striped.

vi) then the sewing machine needs to be reassembled and re-timed.

vii) since the machine is basically striped to the bare bones you probably should repair the timining belt

The real question is the conversion really worth it on an older machine? Doing it you self, if you can mill the hook saddle, for probably $150 US or so. Getting a sewing machine repair shop to do the work you are probably looking at $600- 800 US.

So is it really worth $750 to $950 to upgrade the machine?

I would suggest either:

i) leave the machine as is and put up with the more often bobbin changes.

ii) sell the machine and purchase a machine with the larger bobbin like the Consew 226RB-5. A new complete setup machine , table and servo motor would cost about $1500. t If you are going to get someone to do the work for you what are you willing to pay .

kgg

 

 

 

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iii) the hook saddle will need to be machine milled out to accept the larger hook

I'm not clear why any milling is needed. My 211A has an M bobbin. The M is a little over an inch in diameter.  In the 211A, the saddle can easily be moved away from the needle for the larger diameter hook.  The hook isn't surrounded by anything as far as I remember. It sticks above the saddle.  I'm not even sure I'd need a different case opener. 

The 226 seems like a clone of the 211. 

As for economics of it. If it really costs $600 to mod, you can buy a used machine with M bobbin for less than that. So I agree with you that it might not make sense. 

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27 minutes ago, Quade said:

I'm not clear why any milling is needed.

Have a look at this video of the Consew 226 being converted to the larger bobbin it should answer you questions and the parts you will need.

kgg

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On 6/1/2023 at 11:11 AM, Buttraxx said:

Hello ... I am looking for a technician that can change a g bobbin to a m-bobbin

Yeah, and if you still want to proceed, note that the conversion in the video changed the "G" bobbin to the much larger "U" bobbin rather than the "M" style. In for a penny, in for a pound.

-DC

Edited by SARK9

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1 hour ago, SARK9 said:

 

 

Yeah, and if you still want to proceed, note that the conversion in the video changed the "G" bobbin to the much larger "U" bobbin rather than the "M" style. In for a penny, in for a pound.

-DC

I have a Singer long arm machine that was upgraded to a U bobbin system over a decade ago. When it works right, it is great! But, it jams either the top or bobbin thread at the slightest provocation. This could be from starting or stopping suddenly, or turning a corner too fast. If I don't hold back the top thread just right when I start, it jams in the hook (and, I know what I'm doing). The other day, while I was in the midst of sewing a gently curved rocker patch onto the back of a vest, the thread jammed the machine to a halt. I had to cut the thread stubs off over and under the vest. I discovered that the bobbin thread had actually wrapped itself up and under the spring loaded bobbin securing clamp and around the bobbin post! It looped right around that sucker! My G size bobbin Singer machines don't normally have these problems. 

This isn't to say that every Singer or clone machine that gets modded to a U bobbin will have troubles like mine. In fact, I suspect mine is an isolated problem. That said, the risk of introducing new problems is real.

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it should answer you questions and the parts you will need.

Thanks. 

He used a 3/4" end mill to open up the hook hole.  I guess he wanted to install a larger bushing or the hook required a larger bushing? It wasn't clear. He said he was able to do the conversion for about $100 but that doesn't include labor or the milling.  I could see this costing $600 if you had to pay someone. 

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16 hours ago, Quade said:

Thanks. 

He used a 3/4" end mill to open up the hook hole.  I guess he wanted to install a larger bushing or the hook required a larger bushing? It wasn't clear. He said he was able to do the conversion for about $100 but that doesn't include labor or the milling.  I could see this costing $600 if you had to pay someone. 

It's the top part of the saddle that needs to be milled,not the hook bushing hole.The larger hooks are taller the the small ones ,the top hook bushing needs to be milled also,an easier way is to buy a Juki 563 saddle which sometimes popup on Ebay.You'll also need the Juki 563 Take Up lever.

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