Regis Report post Posted November 19, 2007 I glued guitar strap parts together before sewing and so that I could dye & antique all togather as one peice. In doing so, I let a drop of Barge smear on the surface. I took some scrap leather and tried removing Barge smear using Feibling Deglazer and alcohol. Deglazer looked ok but, dye and antique did not take/penetrate on the spot. I also tried erasing it with a penscil eraser and that looked good but still didn't work. Appreciate any tips. Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don101 Report post Posted November 19, 2007 (edited) erm if it isnt cleaning up it could only be a top surface problem, ive never run into this problem myself as we dont have barge here, but how about taking a very fine i mean realy fine wet and dry sand paper and just roughen the top surface on the spot and add a concentrated amount on the spot of dye and let it soak for a bit and rub it in, if you are using antique it might blend in ok, you had better put a drop of barge on a scrap piece of leather and try it out first on that before you ruin your project, with my stupid idea LOL, Don Edited November 19, 2007 by Don101 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 19, 2007 I think Don is on the right track here. try scraping the surface CAREFULLY with the side if an Xacto knife. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted November 19, 2007 I think the damage is done, What you should have done is let the barge dry completely and then rub it off. By using the deglazer first you have let the barge soak into the leather instead of just sitting on the surface. With most contact cement you can ususlly rub off the cement after it drys then clean up any residue with a cleaner of some type. I feel sanding the surface will just make things worse, you may get rid of the cement but leave a rough spot. In the future try applying a finish to a carved or stained project prior to assembly with the cement. This way it will make clean up easier. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted November 19, 2007 Regis.... when that happens. You were on the right track by useing an eraser. Next time that happens , get yourself one of those SANDING BELT cleaners, cut yourself about a 1/2''piece after the glue dryes, just erase it. When i have tried to use the cleaner or deglazer it just diluted the glue and all i was doing was just rubbing th glue in. good luck on the next one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted November 19, 2007 Thanks all. My test peice didn't work because I never let them dry. Now that the actual belt is dry, I am able to scrape off with xacto and clean minor residue with eraser. Luke, I do even have one of the file and sanding belt cleaners. I had not thought of it but, it will be a great eraser for just this sort of thing. Fortunately, I didn't thin the Barge so It did not seem to soak-in at all. Next time I want to dye & antique the peices together, I'm going to lay them side by side with tape on the back. Thanks again, Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted November 19, 2007 Hey Regis, Remember Earth-shoes. The had that amber colored super hard gum rubber sole? Call Kevin at Springfield leather and ask him to send one to you. They are the greatest for taking rubber abd contact cement off of anything from suede to pigskin, shark, you name it. No residue and as Bo(his boot maker there ) says' If it gets dirty- take it outside and rub it on the cement" You can't wear the thing out! Glad the mallet worked out pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishguy Report post Posted November 19, 2007 a rubber cement pick-up from a stationary store works well too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin King Report post Posted November 19, 2007 not sure if it right for your situation, but i have had good results with acetone with other types of oops things in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hidemechanic Report post Posted November 20, 2007 I agree with Randy. In my experieces with BooBoos, using anything to remove glue that will thin it will just make the spot worse or at least leave a spot that you have to get real creative with, and you still have to live with something you know is there. An old timer told me a long time ago that the mark of a good craftsman is how well he covers his mistakes. As to removing glue from grain surface I too wait till the glue is on the dry. Sinse I use sheepskin scrap for spreading glue I usually have a dry patch laying around so I use that for lifting glue off. It's rubbery and sinse that's how these glues work(assembling when on the dry) the dry glue patch will adhere to the glue spot and Usually lift it off. Sometimes you need to "role" it off meaning lightly rub from one side to another,like erasing just in one direction. Good luck. G.Hackett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites