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Dwight

346 Waxed Thread

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When I first bought my Tippmann Boss from Tandy . . . I bought and used a waxed 346 white thread that I loved . . . 

One day they did not supply it any more . . . new stuff was not waxed.

Since bought a Cowboy 4500 . . . and while it sews OK . . . no problems there . . . would like to get back to that waxed thread look I used to make.

Tried every search angle I can find . . . Ebay . . . Amazon . . . Google . . . 

Hoping someone on here can point me to some.

Thanks, may God bless,

Dwight

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I have an old wax pot from Ferdinand Bull if you want to try a pot on your machine. Let me know and I will find it and send it to you... 

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1 hour ago, Cattledude said:

I have an old wax pot from Ferdinand Bull if you want to try a pot on your machine. Let me know and I will find it and send it to you... 

How do you use one of those?  I believe one came with my Cowboy 4500 . . . some kind of a pot like thing that sits up on top  . . .  never saw any directions or anything on how to use it . . .  

Maybe you could give me a clue???

May God bless,

Dwight

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Just to be clear. Are you talking about a hard wax or thread lube? Reason being that many people actually mean the liquid thread lube pots that still get called wax pots. The old timers refer to a wax pot as a pot that heats (gas jet or electric) and melts wax into the thread. Thread lube is a liquid lube like Sellari's, Lily, or silicon. 

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4 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

Just to be clear. Are you talking about a hard wax or thread lube? Reason being that many people actually mean the liquid thread lube pots that still get called wax pots. The old timers refer to a wax pot as a pot that heats (gas jet or electric) and melts wax into the thread. Thread lube is a liquid lube like Sellari's, Lily, or silicon. 

Best I can describe it . . . there was a white . . . waxy feel to the thread itself.

And if I did a cowboy belt on my Boss . . . there would be a white residue on the needle by the time I got doe with  sewing the belt.  It would gather on the left edge of the needle . . . and I'd have to take my finger and thumb . . . kinda "milk" the glob off into my hand and then into the trash basket.

Things I liked the most about it was it never moved . . . once sewed . . . it was done . . .  and there was no frayed little wisps of thread like I occasionally find with the present thread I'm using.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Dwight; I got a 8 oz spool of bonded white nylon with my Toro Artisan 3200, that left fine waxy flakes on everything. It looks and feels like regular nylon, but left a ring on the needle and dust/flakes on everything. It's called Artisan "Sewbond". Don't know of any other waxed nylon other than spools of waxed hand sewing nylon/sail makers thread.

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I think you have been using pre-lubricated thread.  Several years ago, Tandy supplied white pre-lubricated thread in 1# spools.

I have purchased pre-lubricated thread here.  "We are now having our own brand of bonded and pre-lubricated* nylon and polyester thread made for us, under the Cowboy label." 

I have been using their thread for several years.  It's not as "wet" as the Tandy thread was, hardly leaves any deposit on the needle, most of the time, not noticeable at all.

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I like the prelubricated thread also. For most work I did not need to use the thread lube pot on the Ferdco 2000. It is kind of a pain to set up and fish the top thread through the guides and strippers. Where I did use it was on production straight run stuff. I made a bunch of doubled and stitched latigo reins for contract and also my own sales. Basically set the guide and let 'er rip with the servo wide open for 7 feet across the end and another 7 feet of pedal to the floor. Smoke would come off the needle and thread would get "sticky" and skip if I didn't lube. Sewing machine people told me the lube is more for heat reduction and lubricating the needle than actually lubing the thread and that made sense to me. I used Sellari's, Lily, and at times even Lexol conditioner as thread lube and not much difference I could see. I was in one shop that ran wide open. He set his spools in coffee cans and  the thread ran off them from inside the can. He squirted the new spools with  oil pretty heavy to start and then every so often as the spool went down. 

    The wax pots are heated and the thread goes through melted wax. As it cools the wax hardens and helps lock the thread and seals the hole. Pick some petrified stitches on some old saddle skirts and you will understand. 

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