Hilly Posted February 13, 2008 Report Posted February 13, 2008 (edited) I'm finally catching on to hand stitching - making nice, even stitches that look good except for the thread tends to turn this dirty grey color when I snug the stitches down. My hands are clean, my work area is clean, my thread is clean, so why the ugly color? I am currently using prewaxed linen thread sold by Tandy. It can't be just the nature of the thread, as I see all kinds of stitching on these boards that look pristine white. I am considering buying a "spool" of Barbours linen in white also one in black, but it's so expensive, and the hobby budget is in trouble right now. Also, can someone recommend good overall thread sizes for hand stitching different sized projects? The thread I have seems too heavy for small items, and just right on other items. Probably would look too skimpy on larger items... I realize it's most likely a matter of preference, but you just don't want to stitch up a knife sheath with rope, or sew a harness with a silk thread. Another question for all you hand sewing people... I'm making mostly holsters at the present, and I started out trying to use regular needles, and found they just don't work for sewing leather. The eyes break out about every other stitch, and I was forever changing needles. I finally got some harness needles. They last like iron, but they are so thick, that I can't push or pull them through my awl holes w/out a needle nose pliers (plus tendonitis and arthritis in my hands bothers me). Is there another needle available which gives the best of both worlds? Smaller diameter yet very strong? One last question for now... Can someone please recommend a source for linen thread that won't break the bank? Thanks, Hilly Edited February 13, 2008 by Hilly Quote
Ambassador abn Posted February 13, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted February 13, 2008 Hilly, regarding your first question, I've noticed the same thing when using pre-waxed nylon thread. My guess is that a really tight stitch allows the leather below to be seen through the thread. I've been able to restore that pristine white color by running an overstitching wheel over my stitching. It seems to loosen things up a little and restore the right tension... Maybe that would help you, too? Quote
Moderator Johanna Posted February 13, 2008 Moderator Report Posted February 13, 2008 Hilly- I like "glovers needles" for handsewing. They are slightly thinner than harness needles, but still sturdy and have a very sharp point that allows them to glide through the awl holes. I'm curious to see what everyone has to say about "dirty thread". Johanna Quote You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus. - Mark Twain
Hilly Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Posted February 13, 2008 abn: Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried it, and it did not seem to make any/much difference. But my stitches look really neat. Johanna: I will see if I can get a hold of some glover's needles and give them a go. I hope they work easier on my hands than the harness needles! Thank you. Quote
Members Randy Cornelius Posted February 13, 2008 Members Report Posted February 13, 2008 I will give you my take of pre waxed thread, it most of the time is "waxed" with a silicone based product that is allowing the natural coloring of the leather to rub off on the thread as you sew. Not sure what kind of leather you are useing but that would be my guess. Try using a good quality nylon or polyester thread and wax it yourself with bees wax. Bees Wax will naturaly seal the thread and hopefuly stop whatever is rubbing off on your thread. I have used prewaxed thread before but buy it from another source. How to wax thread is in the Stolhman books but here it is. Double the length of thread over something, a hook or nail. Take your beeswax and rub both the top and bottom of the thread briskly. then take a piece of brown paper bag and rub the threads to melt the wax into and burnish the threads. You are now ready to sew. Randy Quote Randy Cornelius Cornelius Saddlery LaCygne, Kansas Randy & Riley Cornelius Ride Hard, Shoot Fast and Always Tell the Truth...
Ambassador pete Posted February 13, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted February 13, 2008 (edited) Hilly- I don't know why you are having trouble. Are you pushing the awl through enough( both pieces) or just making a pinprick to mark the hole. I bought some egg eye harness needles in the 70's. I use them to sew lots of cases and covers(4/5-8/9 oz.) and haven't needed pliers to pull the needle. I do rub them with some 2000 grit sandpaper before I start though- makes them smoother.Some of them are actually rusty after 30+ years of non-use!!! pete ps- I have a CS Osborne from Hidecrafters. I just polished it up a bit on 2000 grit and I poke the hole all the way thorough- leaves plenty of room for the needle to pass Edited February 13, 2008 by pete Quote
Hilly Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Posted February 13, 2008 (edited) pete said: Hilly- I don't know why you are having trouble. Are you pushing the awl through enough( both pieces) or just making a pinprick to mark the hole.I bought some egg eye harness needles in the 70's. I use them to sew lots of cases and covers(4/5-8/9 oz.) and haven't needed pliers to pull the needle. I do rub them with some 2000 grit sandpaper before I start though- makes them smoother.Some of them are actually rusty after 30+ years of non-use!!! pete Hi Pete. I am pushing the awl all the way to the haft, through both layers of 8-9oz. leather. I even give it about a 1/8 twist to open the hole a bit more. I don't want to twist any more for fear of making a gaping hole in the leather. I often put the tip of my harness needle into beeswax to help it slide through better. The needles are still tight going through the leather. I'm using a regular awl with a diamond tip blade. The kind intended for stabbing stitching holes. The same kind as you stated in your post. It could be that I have lost much of my pinching strenght (as in pinching a needle between thumb and fingers) in my hand due to tendon surgery, or it could be the touch of arthritis in my hands. Either way, I find it difficult to grasp and pull the harness needles through the leather without the aid of pliers. Maybe something in my technique is wrong? I plan on visiting the leather show in April, so I can talk to other's there, and possibly learn something by watching. Maybe there are different sized harness needles? Tandy offers only 2 sizes. Fat and fatter, it would seem. I've ordered some glover's needles to see if it helps any. Edited February 13, 2008 by Hilly Quote
esantoro Posted February 13, 2008 Report Posted February 13, 2008 Hilly said: Hi Pete.I am pushing the awl all the way to the haft, through both layers of 8-9oz. leather. I even give it about a 1/8 twist to open the hole a bit more. I don't want to twist any more for fear of making a gaping hole in the leather. I often put the tip of my harness needle into beeswax to help it slide through better. The needles are still tight going through the leather. I'm using a regular awl with a diamond tip blade. The kind intended for stabbing stitching holes. The same kind as you stated in your post. It could be that I have lost much of my pinching strenght (as in pinching a needle between thumb and fingers) in my hand due to tendon surgery, or it could be the touch of arthritis in my hands. Either way, I find it difficult to grasp and pull the harness needles through the leather without the aid of pliers. Maybe something in my technique is wrong? I plan on visiting the leather show in April, so I can talk to other's there, and possibly learn something by watching. Maybe there are different sized harness needles? Tandy offers only 2 sizes. Fat and fatter, it would seem. I've ordered some glover's needles to see if it helps any. Glover's needles are very sharp and are for piercing much lighter leathers. Siegel of California and Ohio Travel Bags both have harness needles in various thicknesses. Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Hilly Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Posted February 13, 2008 Randy Cornelius said: I will give you my take of pre waxed thread, it most of the time is "waxed" with a silicone based product that is allowing the natural coloring of the leather to rub off on the thread as you sew. Not sure what kind of leather you are useing but that would be my guess. Try using a good quality nylon or polyester thread and wax it yourself with bees wax. Bees Wax will naturaly seal the thread and hopefuly stop whatever is rubbing off on your thread. I have used prewaxed thread before but buy it from another source.How to wax thread is in the Stolhman books but here it is. Double the length of thread over something, a hook or nail. Take your beeswax and rub both the top and bottom of the thread briskly. then take a piece of brown paper bag and rub the threads to melt the wax into and burnish the threads. You are now ready to sew. Randy Hi Randy. I was almost wondering if I couldn't use parrafin wax? It would serve the same purpose as beeswax, and I have boxes of the stuff in my canning supplies. Maybe the "leather color" wouldn't rub off on it as much as bees wax? Actually, I've been thinking that possibly the color change in the prewaxed thread is due to the amount of wax the manufacturer uses, and it compresses when you pull the stitches down, making it look darker? At any rate, I don't like the look of it. The only alternative I can think of is to use the brown or black prewaxed, or shelling out $$$$$$ and buying rolls of unwaxed linen, and waxing it myself. I have considered using a poly thread, and probably will on small items, however I find the look of the heavier linen thread attractive on larger projects. I do have a industrial walking foot sewing machine with leather needles for smaller projects such as checkbook covers, wallets, etc. I do love the hand stitched look on my western style holsters, and that's something you just don't get with thin poly thread. Quote
Moderator Johanna Posted February 13, 2008 Moderator Report Posted February 13, 2008 Oh, Hilly- make sure you say "Hi" to me in April at the show! I'm so excited to get to put faces to names of friends! Ed- You're right, glovers needles are intended to pierce lighter weight leathers, and yes, they are very sharp. They do work great for handstitching, though, and are easier to use than a sharpened harness needle. I'm guessing Hilly and I have similar problems sewing because we lack regular hand strength. Sewing with pliers takes up time, and it's awkward. Hilly, are you stabbing the hole with the awl, sewing a stitch, stabbing, sewing, or are you poking all your holes ahead of time? Some leathers seem to want to close faster than others, so if you can get into the habit of using the awl while sewing, that might help. Johanna Quote You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus. - Mark Twain
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