Stitching questions

[Hilly]

Well, after some experimentation, I've found that using a smaller thread has been my best solution. I was using the thread that Tandy sells, which is quite heavy. I switched to using 4 ply waxed linen, and I can now pull the harness needles through the awl holes pretty well.

I even went as far as getting a hand stitching chisel to punch holes, hoping that larger holes would be the answer. I found that although the holes are a nice diamond shape, and evenly spaced, they were still visible after my stitches went in, even when I used the heavier thread from Tandy.

I may still use the chisel on some heavier items I make later (cases and such), but for small items and small thread, it just does't look good to me. I have since gone back to the stitching groover and overstitch wheel. I also went to a smaller stitch spacing, which makes my stitches look neater.

I tried glover's needles and although they went through the holes much easier, they also kept catching and splitting the threads because of the very sharp point.

Any of you just starting out with the problem of not being able to hand stitch without the constant use of a needle nose pliers might try using a smaller thread, or getting a bigger awl (if someone makes a bigger awl). Just sayin'.

Hilly

[jimsaddler]

Hey this is interesting. All the comments have merit. Please allow me to run through a few things on Hand Sewing as I've done a we bit of in my time and taught groups of up to 60 how to do it commercially.

Firstly, The right Needle for the Thread size is important as is the right size Awl. #2 & #3 Harness Egg Eye Needles will probably be the best sizes for general use for Holsters and a 4 or 3 Cord thread. For ease of sewing make your own threads from Saddlers Hemp and a mixture of Beeswax and Resin (Rosin). I won't go into the Making at this stage, leave that for later.

Glovers needles are too sharp and should only be used where you need to pierce the Leather singly!

If using pre-waxed Thread. To keep your thread clean you should polish the Wax into it before sewing. Secure the middle of the Thread on a Bench Hook or nail, Use a small piece of Garment Leather, wrap it round the Threads twice and vigorously rub it from end to end (friction melts the Wax into the Thread).

Take the two ends of the thread and scrape a taper on them with the back of a Knife. Then there should be enough wax in the tips to form a taper between your Fingers. Use this taper to thread into you Needle Eye and pull the Thread through about 1 1/4" further than the length of the Needle. Then push the Needle point through the middle of the Thread twice, then pull the excess thread back through the eye until you are at the point that you pierced the Thread. Pull the Tapered Tail over the eye and onto the Thread with your fingers. The Needle now is part of the Thread!

Do the same to both ends of the Thread and you have a basic stitching thread.

To stitch select an Awl to suit the thickness of both Needles and it should be a flat Diamond in profile. Put your first hole at about a 15 degree slope and center the Thread in the Leather, Make your next hole at te same angle, then as you start to withdraw the Awl place the back needle into the Hole and follow the Awl to the other side, As it comes out of the Hole you should have the second needle ready in your thumb and forefinger to grab the emerging Needle ( remember that the gives you a grip when the Needle is laid across the emerging Needle to help you pull it out). Pull the Needle and Thread out about 6 or 7 inches, then drop the emergent Needle to your middle Finger and Palm and insert the return Needle slightly into the emerged Thread. Use your left hand to pull steadily on the back of the emerged Thread and it will pull the second needle into the hole. Throw the back Thread up and over the needle as it appears and take hold of the Needle along with the back thread and pull it through. This will aid you to easily get the Thick Thread and Needle through the Hole and results in a neat Stitch if done well. Repeat the proceedure for each stitch. The idea of throwing the Back loop is to make the back slope of the Stitch look the same as the Front, NEAT! Hey it takes a bit of practise but you should get to the stage where you never put your Awl or Needle down and you become Automated.

I had Ladies sewing Buggy Traces 9 per inch at 34 to 40 inches per hour every day and the Back was as neat as the front. And they sang while they did it. The faster they went the better the quality.

I'll go into stitching in proper detail when I can get the time and Photo's to post.

Please have a happy Day. Jim.

[TracyMoss]

Contact Panhandle Leather for the Barbours linen thread. 806-373-0535

[barra]

Jim. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. Hand rolled hemp threads rolled on a thread apron made from an old sweat flap and old belt. As an apprentice i was the sewing machine and knife sharpener and can honestly say I have fond memories of stitching gig traces.

When you can stitch 4' an hour at 8 SPI (neat and NO dead sailors) then you can hand stitch BOY. I used to look at the clock and go like the wind for an hour and then measure the distance and keep trying to better it. I'd have all my threads pre made and just have to put on the needles. He could stitch accurately and consistantly with no prick marks (just by eye). Something to aim for BOY

Now while I did not make the actual set in the attached pic. When I was an apprentice we made some of the original harness for the this teamster

Barra

Edited February 28, 2008 by barra

[jimsaddler]

Jim. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. Hand rolled hemp threads rolled on a thread apron made from an old sweat flap and old belt. As an apprentice i was the sewing machine and knife sharpener and can honestly say I have fond memories of stitching gig traces.

When you can stitch 4' an hour at 8 SPI (neat and NO dead sailors) then you can hand stitch BOY. I used to look at the clock and go like the wind for an hour and then measure the distance and keep trying to better it. I'd have all my threads pre made and just have to put on the needles. He could stitch accurately and consistantly with no prick marks (just by eye). Something to aim for BOY

Now while I did not make the actual set in the attached pic. When I was an apprentice we made some of the original harness for the this teamster

Barra

Hey Barra

Where are you from?

You seem familiar to me.

Jim

[barra]

I'm from Adelaide South Australia and learned from Ken howard. the pic is of the Coopers brewery clydesdales and Mike Keogh

Barra

[Hilly]

Hey this is interesting. All the comments have merit. Please allow me to run through a few things on Hand Sewing as I've done a we bit of in my time and taught groups of up to 60 how to do it commercially.

Firstly, The right Needle for the Thread size is important as is the right size Awl. #2 & #3 Harness Egg Eye Needles will probably be the best sizes for general use for Holsters and a 4 or 3 Cord thread. For ease of sewing make your own threads from Saddlers Hemp and a mixture of Beeswax and Resin (Rosin). I won't go into the Making at this stage, leave that for later.

Glovers needles are too sharp and should only be used where you need to pierce the Leather singly!

If using pre-waxed Thread. To keep your thread clean you should polish the Wax into it before sewing. Secure the middle of the Thread on a Bench Hook or nail, Use a small piece of Garment Leather, wrap it round the Threads twice and vigorously rub it from end to end (friction melts the Wax into the Thread).

Take the two ends of the thread and scrape a taper on them with the back of a Knife. Then there should be enough wax in the tips to form a taper between your Fingers. Use this taper to thread into you Needle Eye and pull the Thread through about 1 1/4" further than the length of the Needle. Then push the Needle point through the middle of the Thread twice, then pull the excess thread back through the eye until you are at the point that you pierced the Thread. Pull the Tapered Tail over the eye and onto the Thread with your fingers. The Needle now is part of the Thread!

Do the same to both ends of the Thread and you have a basic stitching thread.

To stitch select an Awl to suit the thickness of both Needles and it should be a flat Diamond in profile. Put your first hole at about a 15 degree slope and center the Thread in the Leather, Make your next hole at te same angle, then as you start to withdraw the Awl place the back needle into the Hole and follow the Awl to the other side, As it comes out of the Hole you should have the second needle ready in your thumb and forefinger to grab the emerging Needle ( remember that the gives you a grip when the Needle is laid across the emerging Needle to help you pull it out). Pull the Needle and Thread out about 6 or 7 inches, then drop the emergent Needle to your middle Finger and Palm and insert the return Needle slightly into the emerged Thread. Use your left hand to pull steadily on the back of the emerged Thread and it will pull the second needle into the hole. Throw the back Thread up and over the needle as it appears and take hold of the Needle along with the back thread and pull it through. This will aid you to easily get the Thick Thread and Needle through the Hole and results in a neat Stitch if done well. Repeat the proceedure for each stitch. The idea of throwing the Back loop is to make the back slope of the Stitch look the same as the Front, NEAT! Hey it takes a bit of practise but you should get to the stage where you never put your Awl or Needle down and you become Automated.

I had Ladies sewing Buggy Traces 9 per inch at 34 to 40 inches per hour every day and the Back was as neat as the front. And they sang while they did it. The faster they went the better the quality.

I'll go into stitching in proper detail when I can get the time and Photo's to post.

Please have a happy Day. Jim.

Thank you, Jim! You just answered a whole lotta questions I had! I am going to get some smaller needles! I also began stitching the way you have explained, and I can now stitch without laying down the awl, though I'm still quite clumsy at it. I'm sure it will get easier with time.

[barra]

Hilly. Your one up on me. Took me forever to get used to hand stitching without putting the awl down. well done.

Barra