Buffing wheels and compounds Help please

[Leather2]

Hi all. I was recently able to pick up a baldor slow speed buffer for sharpening my leather tools, and I am wondering what brands and styles of buffing wheels are best. The arbor is 3/4in an I am thinking of doing six inch wheels. 
How many ply/how thick should the wheels be? Should they be stiff canvas? Yellow? White?

Also, as far as compounds go, I am planning to do two different compounds. What ones should I do? Green and Black? Green and Gray? Also what are some quality brands I can get? 
thank you.

JC

[Ddat]

Can't help on the question of wheels, but regarding what type of compound to get: if you're asking, it doesn't really matter. I sharpen all my wood working, leather, and kitchen tools and just use whatever is closest. I can't tell the difference and I disturb a lot. Get a couple and try them out.

[bladegrinder]

I believe I have the same buffer but 3600 rpm. I use it in knife making and have had it about 30 years. what I use are 1/4" wheels stacked to 1" you can find them at Trugrit abrasives or other knifemaking suppliers. whether you use one or stack them there is considerable time involved getting it balanced on the shaft to run true, you just have to keep adjusting it on the shaft until it runs smooth and there's no vibration. if your going with two compounds I'd go with white and green, green being the finest...and messiest. get a wheel for each compound.

congrats on the buffer, I believe the Baldor with 3/4" shafts are the best out there. and be careful a buffer can be the most dangerous machine in the shop.

Edit...the wheels I use are spiral sewn.

Edited November 5, 2023 by bladegrinder

[TomE]

I agree with @bladegrinder's choices.  I have a 3/4hp Baldor motor with 5/8" shafts and a sewn cotton buffing wheel.  I use green compound for everything. The other side is a deburring wheel.  Has lasted 12 yrs in a machine shed although I'm hearing a bit of bearing noise.  I use it for hoof knives and leather tools. 

[Leather2]

9 hours ago, bladegrinder said:

I believe I have the same buffer but 3600 rpm. I use it in knife making and have had it about 30 years. what I use are 1/4" wheels stacked to 1" you can find them at Trugrit abrasives or other knifemaking suppliers. whether you use one or stack them there is considerable time involved getting it balanced on the shaft to run true, you just have to keep adjusting it on the shaft until it runs smooth and there's no vibration. if your going with two compounds I'd go with white and green, green being the finest...and messiest. get a wheel for each compound.

congrats on the buffer, I believe the Baldor with 3/4" shafts are the best out there. and be careful a buffer can be the most dangerous machine in the shop.

Edit...the wheels I use are spiral sewn.

Thank you, Is there a reason you stack the wheels instead of getting a bigger wheel?

Just now, TomE said:

I agree with @bladegrinder's choices.  I have a 3/4hp Baldor motor with 5/8" shafts and a sewn cotton buffing wheel.  I use green compound for everything. The other side is a deburring wheel.  Has lasted 12 yrs in a machine shed although I'm hearing a bit of bearing noise.  I use it for hoof knives and leather tools. 

How corse is black compound vs green compound??

thanks

[TomE]

3 minutes ago, Leather2 said:

Thank you, Is there a reason you stack the wheels instead of getting a bigger wheel?

How corse is black compound vs green compound??

thanks

Mine is one wheel with the cotton layers sewn together to make a firm edge.  My buffing wheel is 3/4" x 6". Fits the curved blade of a hoof knife.  I don't have experience with black compound.  Green is plenty fine for my blades.  I buy supplies from Farrier Product Distribution or Sharpeningsupplies.com.

[Leather2]

49 minutes ago, TomE said:

Mine is one wheel with the cotton layers sewn together to make a firm edge.  My buffing wheel is 3/4" x 6". Fits the curved blade of a hoof knife.  I don't have experience with black compound.  Green is plenty fine for my blades.  I buy supplies from Farrier Product Distribution or Sharpeningsupplies.com.

Thank you

[bruce johnson]

I'm definitely the wrong guy to ask. I have 5 variable speed grinders and then three VS bench lathes (essentially small bench buffers).  Some of wheel/grit combinations are 1/2 inch on an arbor for my drill press. Everything for the grease based compounds on the grinders are two stacked 1/2' wheels. I use 1" denim wheels for five grits of greaseless compounds. For waxy grease based compounds I use sisal, spiral sewn treated and spiral sewn non treated, and loose wheels. Once I get past the greaseless compounds I use four grease based compounds currently. All my compounds come from Maverick Abrasives now. They have been more consistent and economical for me.

Black compound on sisal is most aggressive and removes grit marks pretty well. Makes a nice transition step up from the 600 grit greaseless.  Next step is green - treated wheels first and then spiral sewn regular wheels to give a nice reflective polish and most people probably quit there. I go to purple compound on a spiral and then a loose wheel and it really brightens up after the green. I use pink on a loose wheel as a final buff or softer materials - the pink is really more of a polish than much abrasive - can use it on wood, plastic, or brass to really make it pop.

For my leather stropping wheels - black and green then purple on a loose wheel

[Leather2]

3 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

I'm definitely the wrong guy to ask. I have 5 variable speed grinders and then three VS bench lathes (essentially small bench buffers).  Some of wheel/grit combinations are 1/2 inch on an arbor for my drill press. Everything for the grease based compounds on the grinders are two stacked 1/2' wheels. I use 1" denim wheels for five grits of greaseless compounds. For waxy grease based compounds I use sisal, spiral sewn treated and spiral sewn non treated, and loose wheels. Once I get past the greaseless compounds I use four grease based compounds currently. All my compounds come from Maverick Abrasives now. They have been more consistent and economical for me.

Black compound on sisal is most aggressive and removes grit marks pretty well. Makes a nice transition step up from the 600 grit greaseless.  Next step is green - treated wheels first and then spiral sewn regular wheels to give a nice reflective polish and most people probably quit there. I go to purple compound on a spiral and then a loose wheel and it really brightens up after the green. I use pink on a loose wheel as a final buff or softer materials - the pink is really more of a polish than much abrasive - can use it on wood, plastic, or brass to really make it pop.

For my leather stropping wheels - black and green then purple on a loose wheel

Thanks Bruce

[dikman]

I'd just like to reinforce what Bladegrinder said - buffing wheels can be extremely dangerous if you get a "catch"! The loose floppy ones in particular, I approach them with a degree of caution, having had a few things grabbed by them and flung hard against the wall behind. I have a couple of different grits but I tend to use green mostly, seems to work fine for my needs.