Leather Splits- uses, some feedback please

[gkyork]

Hello All,

I bought some leather "splits" from Springfield Co, and after receiving them, I'm kind of at a loss as to how to best use them. Springfield indicates that since they are veg tan, they should be good for carving stamping, dyeing, etc. I also am not seeing the material as very durable for the outdoors. I am looking to make pouches and small bags, largely for myself, but eventually for sale-able projects as well.  Any help is appreciated, thanks you all!

[tsunkasapa]

I assume these are the 'rough on both sides' splits. The only use I've found for them is to thicken lighter leather. They have no structural strength.

[Handstitched]

If its what I'm thinking of, rough on both sides,  I have used  ( thin) splits as lining on some projects. I also made my  workshop apron out of some. Not much good for too much else. 

HS

[Klara]

2 hours ago, Handstitched said:

Not much good for too much else. 

Then what do they do to create classic "split leather", the plastic-coated one? Is it really the plastic coating that creates strength? For I have a belt (bought extremely cheaply for its beautiful buckle) and stuff (belt, dog collars, leash, bags) I've made out of a split hide which I bought by error, and everything is holding up perfectly. So I wouldn't say the stuff is useless  - but I wouldn't know how to use it either... 

[TomE]

Can use splits as the filler for raised leather features.  I use leftover splits to test blade sharpness and to mock up different construction methods.  

[SUP]

Some of the high-end leathers like Saffiano are splits with additional layers of synthetics on  them. I have heard others are too, but do not know which ones. I have no idea of their strength either. They could hold up or it could be that being so expensive, people who buy items made from such leathers are just more careful with them.

I have a split from Springfield, a large, stiff, heavy one. I discovered that pieces of it make great 'poundo' boards - much kinder on my chisels and punches. I keep it on a block of wax which is itself placed on a granite slab. Works well for me. The split soon becomes weak and floppy where I punch on it though. Whether all leathers do that so easily or  splits are weaker, I do not know.  I just replace it as needed.  I also use it to practice stitching and checking dyes. 

One side of the split is relatively smooth , I used water and burnished it and plan to practice tooling on it. I did not use Tokonole as I plan to dye it as well. Tokonole would probably give it a good shine and finish. 

The split that I have is too heavy for using as a support for floppier leathers. But I know there are items made with plain splits.  I have a tool kit made with  split leather - the type where you place the tools in little slots and roll, so it is very flexible. It is smooth on both sides but it has not been burnished or dyed - it is a plain untreated split. If that is possible, i see no reason why you should not be able to make pouches and bags, if your splits are of the appropriate temper. You could try burnishing them with Tokonole first, to ensure they can be made to look presentable. Any burnishing agent should work, not necessarily just Tokonole.

Hope that helps a bit.

Edited December 27, 2023 by SUP

[gkyork]

3 hours ago, SUP said:

Some of the high-end leathers like Saffiano are splits with additional layers of synthetics on  them. I have heard others are too, but do not know which ones. I have no idea of their strength either. They could hold up or it could be that being so expensive, people who buy items made from such leathers are just more careful with them.

I have a split from Springfield, a large, stiff, heavy one. I discovered that pieces of it make great 'poundo' boards - much kinder on my chisels and punches. I keep it on a block of wax which is itself placed on a granite slab. Works well for me. The split soon becomes weak and floppy where I punch on it though. Whether all leathers do that so easily or  splits are weaker, I do not know.  I just replace it as needed.  I also use it to practice stitching and checking dyes. 

One side of the split is relatively smooth , I used water and burnished it and plan to practice tooling on it. I did not use Tokonole as I plan to dye it as well. Tokonole would probably give it a good shine and finish. 

The split that I have is too heavy for using as a support for floppier leathers. But I know there are items made with plain splits.  I have a tool kit made with  split leather - the type where you place the tools in little slots and roll, so it is very flexible. It is smooth on both sides but it has not been burnished or dyed - it is a plain untreated split. If that is possible, i see no reason why you should not be able to make pouches and bags, if your splits are of the appropriate temper. You could try burnishing them with Tokonole first, to ensure they can be made to look presentable. Any burnishing agent should work, not necessarily just Tokonole.

Hope that helps a bit.

You could try burnishing them with Tokonole first, to ensure they can be made to look presentable. Any burnishing agent should work, not necessarily just Tokonole.

Am I understanding to burnish the faces of these splits, to improve appearance? this material I have is maybe 2-3 ounce so edge burnishing just rounds(curls) the edges. I have heard of using "mop n glow"(an acrylic floor finish) as a sealant burnishing agent, Any thoughts?

[SUP]

Yes you understood correctly.  I meant burnishing the surface of the splits. The split I have, even on the smooth side, is rougher than the grain side of  full or top grains. Water burnishing works but needs a lot of elbow grease to buff; less so with Tokonole. 

Mop-n-glo I have heard of as a sealing agent. I have no experience with it so do not know if it can be used here as a burnishing agent. Maybe someone else here will give you that information.

Other burnishing agents are gum trag, beeswax, saddle soap.  However, most of these, including Tokonole, might make casing to tool or carve or dyeing difficult as they, except for saddle soap,  as far as I know, all resist water. So burnishing with water/saddle soap or burnishing after dyeing and then cutting might be a way out. 

 

 

 

[gkyork]

@SUP

Thanks  for you help!!

[SUP]

You're welcome.

This is the tool kit I mentioned earlier.

It is about 4-5 Oz thick  - this is difficult to roll even  when I keep the smallest items in it - even small stamps make it far too bulky to roll. And it should have had slots for tools on only one side. It should have actually been made with thinner leather.

I have another similar kit for punches that is made with synthetic material - that has slots on only one side.

Edited December 27, 2023 by SUP

[Klara]

Now that I see the picture I remember that I have a tool belt/bag that looks similar. It must be split leather (I bought it before getting into leather work and never thought about the material) and is holding up well.

In your place I'd make a simple bag, dye it if desired (not sure stamping would work) and then seal it with Mop n Glow (the more water resistant, the better, for an outdoors bag). And then just use it. Either it holds up, or it doesn't.