Watch Straps

[CalgaryJim]

I got into trying to make my own leather watch straps about 5 months ago after spending what I thought was a lot of money on straps, even though I had started buying straps from Tuns in Vietnam. They worked out to $35 to $50 USD for most of the leather types, with a 15% discount on two or more straps, and only about $5 USD for shipping. I figured, two or three hundred dollars on equipment and I can learn to make straps 'just like those YouTubers, lol. Well not I'm well into it with tools, some good, some bad, various leather types, and threads, inexpensive to expensive (Fil au Chinois).

I soon realized that a) the good strap-makers on YouTube are probably doing it eight hours a day, full-time; b) some of them are terrible; and c) it's a heck of a lot harder than I could have imagined, I'm spending 2 or 3 hours a day leatherworking and almost as much time watching videos and reading forums like this one. So, not quite a full-time hobby, but my days do seem to revolve around it.

I'm finding this forum probably the best site for me to learn about leatherwork, along with YouTube I do use the r/leathercraft forum, facebook much less so. I didn't see a dedicated sub-forum here for strap-making so thought I'd create this one to make it easier going forward for me and others to find information, especially current information as many websites selling leather and tools/supplies are no longer in existence.

Looking forward to your contributions, both what you have made or are making, and tips/tricks, as well as general knowledge sharing.

Oops, I thought I was creating new category under Other Specialties. I'll ask the Administrator if they can do that.

[Mablung]

There are also a good number of threads addressing watch straps, too.  They seem to require some heightened precision, including some smaller-than-usual pricking irons or stitching chisels, as well as finer thread and needles.  Additionally, they seem to require some skiving skill, for things like the strap end keepers (since most are very gradually lap-skived and then cemented and stitched).  I haven't tried making any yet, although I intend to.  First I need some different chisels or irons and a much sharper stitching awl.

[TonyV]

yeah, hobbies are like that.  Spend a couple hundred bucks on tools and supplies and build it myself with amateurish results because I don't want to spend 50 bucks for a professionally made whatever-it-is.

But at least I have the pride of DIY!

[CalgaryJim]

4 minutes ago, Mablung said:

There are also a good number of threads addressing watch straps, too.  They seem to require some heightened precision, including some smaller-than-usual pricking irons or stitching chisels, as well as finer thread and needles.  Additionally, they seem to require some skiving skill, for things like the strap end keepers (since most are very gradually lap-skived and then cemented and stitched).  I haven't tried making any yet, although I intend to.  First I need some different chisels or irons and a much sharper stitching awl.

Thanks Mablung, you are right, there are. Problem for me is finding them, when I do multiple word searches, whether I use 'AND' or "watch straps", etc, I get threads that don't follow the search rules I used. And they are located in some many different sub-forums. You are right about your observations, although I base that only on what I've heard from others, I haven't tried making anything else from leather so I don't have a comparison myself. And my interest is entirely focused on watch straps, it's an off-shoot of my watch collecting hobby.

[CalgaryJim]

Just now, TonyV said:

yeah, hobbies are like that.  Spend a couple hundred bucks on tools and supplies and build it myself with amateurish results because I don't want to spend 50 bucks for a professionally made whatever-it-is.

But at least I have the pride of DIY!

I hear you, my tool costs have gone up though as I try to make something I'd actually wear. I've been keeping track of my expenses, by now I could have bought about 50 straps or more from the Vietnamese strapmakers, lol. A not insignifcant part of that cost is shipping and customs/brokerage fees, there is a Tandy Leather store here I buy from but for better tools and especially leathers, I am importing to Canada, mostly from RMLS.

 

I agree, there is the pride of DIY. I'm not there yet though, I'm hoping within another 6 months I'll be at a level where the straps I make are good enough that I would otherwise buy them.

[Danne]

I remember when I made my first watch strap, and before I started I planned on spending a couple 100 euros on tools also, and thought "how hard can it be" And to my surprise it was way harder than I thought. 1. All small details are very important, things you can get away with on larger items will stick out on a watch strap. 2. A strap need to be comfortable so not too stiff, but at the same time it should be reinforced so it doesn't loose it's shape, and depending on the style of strap you might have to use a different reinforcement method. 3. Thin leather is hard to stitch with a consistent result. 4. Watch straps require a very consistent dimension, so let's say you plan to make a strap for a watch with 20mm between the watch lugs, then you might have to cut it to slightly under 20mm to make room for edge paint. 

I have spent way more time trying to figure out different construction methods than I have actually made straps, and I have done quite a lot of straps for a hobbyist crafter that doesn't sell anything. Sadly I often see crafters on both Instagram and Youtube that make slimmer straps with insufficient reinforcement, or reinforced in a way that will not hold up over time. I hope my last statement doesn't come off as me being a wiseacre, I'm just a hobbyist and I of course understand that there are a lot of really good strap crafters out there, but I also feel confident in my construction methods, because I have done a lot of prototypes and tests.

With that said, making watch straps is fun, and it doesn't have to be expensive, I mean the cost of leather is low, and you can choose to work with a lower budget and still make nice straps. 

Some examples of expensive tools that can be replaced with cheaper ones.

Expensive: Fileteuse.  Cheap: Handheld creaser you heat over alcohol lamp like Wutas creasers.

Expensive: Quick release plier.  Cheap: Notch the corner at the lugs of the strap

Expensive: Multi punch for buckle pin holes.  Cheap: Single punch and use a template

Expensive: High end stitching irons.   Cheap: Cheap pricking irons and learn to shape and use an awl

 

 

[Mablung]

45 minutes ago, CalgaryJim said:

Thanks Mablung, you are right, there are. Problem for me is finding them, when I do multiple word searches, whether I use 'AND' or "watch straps", etc, I get threads that don't follow the search rules I used. And they are located in some many different sub-forums. You are right about your observations, although I base that only on what I've heard from others, I haven't tried making anything else from leather so I don't have a comparison myself. And my interest is entirely focused on watch straps, it's an off-shoot of my watch collecting hobby.

That's fair.  The threads can be tough to find easily.  I got a decent watch recently, want to make a black strap for it alongside the brown one I got with the watch, and am resisting the urge to allow my watches to be fruitful and multiply, lol.

[Northmount]

2 hours ago, CalgaryJim said:

Problem for me is finding them, when I do multiple word searches, whether I use 'AND' or "watch straps", etc, I get threads that don't follow the search rules I used. And they are located in some many different sub-forums.

If you use a Google Search, you can use all the different types of search parameters, rules, etc.  Their search engines and indexing are far more powerful and faster than here at LW.

Use "site:URL 'your search parameters' "

Example "site:leatherworker.net watch straps"   https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=site%3Aleatherworker.net+watch+straps

Adjust the search parameters as you wish to find the posts that are related.

 

[DieselTech]

3 hours ago, CalgaryJim said:

I hear you, my tool costs have gone up though as I try to make something I'd actually wear. I've been keeping track of my expenses, by now I could have bought about 50 straps or more from the Vietnamese strapmakers, lol. A not insignifcant part of that cost is shipping and customs/brokerage fees, there is a Tandy Leather store here I buy from but for better tools and especially leathers, I am importing to Canada, mostly from RMLS.

 

I agree, there is the pride of DIY. I'm not there yet though, I'm hoping within another 6 months I'll be at a level where the straps I make are good enough that I would otherwise buy them.

CalgaryJim is there any watch strap speciality tools you have bought on your watch strap journey? 

I have been looking into the idea of making watch straps, & I kind of figured it would cost at least a $1000 dollars on quality tools to make watch straps. 

Do you think that is a accurate figure? 

Thanks. 

[TomE]

15 hours ago, Northmount said:

If you use a Google Search, you can use all the different types of search parameters, rules, etc.  Their search engines and indexing are far more powerful and faster than here at LW.

Use "site:URL 'your search parameters' "

Example "site:leatherworker.net watch straps"   https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=site%3Aleatherworker.net+watch+straps

 

Thanks for the tip, @Northmount!  I am finding all sorts of posts about bridle leather, horse tack, etc that I previously missed.  Dreaming up lots of experiments based on new information.

Edited February 16 by TomE

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/15/2024 at 11:37 AM, Danne said:

I remember when I made my first watch strap, and before I started I planned on spending a couple 100 euros on tools also, and thought "how hard can it be" And to my surprise it was way harder than I thought. 1. All small details are very important, things you can get away with on larger items will stick out on a watch strap. 2. A strap need to be comfortable so not too stiff, but at the same time it should be reinforced so it doesn't loose it's shape, and depending on the style of strap you might have to use a different reinforcement method. 3. Thin leather is hard to stitch with a consistent result. 4. Watch straps require a very consistent dimension, so let's say you plan to make a strap for a watch with 20mm between the watch lugs, then you might have to cut it to slightly under 20mm to make room for edge paint. 

I have spent way more time trying to figure out different construction methods than I have actually made straps, and I have done quite a lot of straps for a hobbyist crafter that doesn't sell anything. Sadly I often see crafters on both Instagram and Youtube that make slimmer straps with insufficient reinforcement, or reinforced in a way that will not hold up over time. I hope my last statement doesn't come off as me being a wiseacre, I'm just a hobbyist and I of course understand that there are a lot of really good strap crafters out there, but I also feel confident in my construction methods, because I have done a lot of prototypes and tests.

With that said, making watch straps is fun, and it doesn't have to be expensive, I mean the cost of leather is low, and you can choose to work with a lower budget and still make nice straps. 

Some examples of expensive tools that can be replaced with cheaper ones.

Expensive: Fileteuse.  Cheap: Handheld creaser you heat over alcohol lamp like Wutas creasers.

Expensive: Quick release plier.  Cheap: Notch the corner at the lugs of the strap

Expensive: Multi punch for buckle pin holes.  Cheap: Single punch and use a template

Expensive: High end stitching irons.   Cheap: Cheap pricking irons and learn to shape and use an awl

 

 

Thanks, much appreciated suggestions. I'm finding getting sturdy templates, ie, acrylic, for my wrist size, 65mm for the short strap and 105 or 110 for the long strap, so far, impossible. Paper templates are okay if I'm super careful with cutting but I'm not yet there and get nervous using paper templates as I've already cut into them so many times.

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/15/2024 at 3:22 PM, DieselTech said:

CalgaryJim is there any watch strap speciality tools you have bought on your watch strap journey? 

I have been looking into the idea of making watch straps, & I kind of figured it would cost at least a $1000 dollars on quality tools to make watch straps. 

Do you think that is a accurate figure? 

Thanks. 

These are all in Canadian dollars but I bought a $50 Weaver 24mm Japanese skiving knife, it works well for me, a $95 Tandy Pro 35mm skiving knife that is very hard metal so I'll have to really work at sharpening it, a $40 35mm skiving knife from Japan (leathercrafttools.com) which works well enough, a $20 adjustable width creaser from Tandy, a $150 very nice quarter round knife from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply which I use for cutting but not skiving, a $20 edge groover which I don't use anymore because I've heard it's not a good idea, you expose the unprotected leather, $100 Tandy Pro French pricking irons (6 and 2 prong set), Tandy poundo board, Tandy folding self-healing cutting mat, Tandy 6x6" granite slab, edge bevelers ($50 Tandy Pro and $20 Weaver), wing divider, a $25 round hollow hole multi-hole punch from Wuta Leather, plus some other tools.

Actually, although not entirely updated, this pdf document shows over $1,400 CAD when you include the multitude of small dollar items.

As per my first paragraph, some I don't use anymore as they aren't good quality or aren't needed for me making watch straps.

I see some Maine thread is miscategorized as tools, should be supplies.

Spreadsheet of Leather Tools.pdf

[Danne]

I thought I share this. The only thing really expensive here is the electric creaser and Ksblade irons, but the same result is possible with cheaper alternatives as mentioned. 

 

[DieselTech]

1 hour ago, CalgaryJim said:

These are all in Canadian dollars but I bought a $50 Weaver 24mm Japanese skiving knife, it works well for me, a $95 Tandy Pro 35mm skiving knife that is very hard metal so I'll have to really work at sharpening it, a $40 35mm skiving knife from Japan (leathercrafttools.com) which works well enough, a $20 adjustable width creaser from Tandy, a $150 very nice quarter round knife from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply which I use for cutting but not skiving, a $20 edge groover which I don't use anymore because I've heard it's not a good idea, you expose the unprotected leather, $100 Tandy Pro French pricking irons (6 and 2 prong set), Tandy poundo board, Tandy folding self-healing cutting mat, Tandy 6x6" granite slab, edge bevelers ($50 Tandy Pro and $20 Weaver), wing divider, a $25 round hollow hole multi-hole punch from Wuta Leather, plus some other tools.

Actually, although not entirely updated, this pdf document shows over $1,400 CAD when you include the multitude of small dollar items.

As per my first paragraph, some I don't use anymore as they aren't good quality or aren't needed for me making watch straps.

I see some Maine thread is miscategorized as tools, should be supplies.

Spreadsheet of Leather Tools.pdf 231.61 kB · 1 download

Thanks. I appreciate the informed run down of tools. I had a feeling a grand was a touch low on my estimate.

[NDphung]

5 hours ago, CalgaryJim said:

These are all in Canadian dollars but I bought a $50 Weaver 24mm Japanese skiving knife, it works well for me, a $95 Tandy Pro 35mm skiving knife that is very hard metal so I'll have to really work at sharpening it, a $40 35mm skiving knife from Japan (leathercrafttools.com) which works well enough, a $20 adjustable width creaser from Tandy, a $150 very nice quarter round knife from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply which I use for cutting but not skiving, a $20 edge groover which I don't use anymore because I've heard it's not a good idea, you expose the unprotected leather, $100 Tandy Pro French pricking irons (6 and 2 prong set), Tandy poundo board, Tandy folding self-healing cutting mat, Tandy 6x6" granite slab, edge bevelers ($50 Tandy Pro and $20 Weaver), wing divider, a $25 round hollow hole multi-hole punch from Wuta Leather, plus some other tools.

Actually, although not entirely updated, this pdf document shows over $1,400 CAD when you include the multitude of small dollar items.

As per my first paragraph, some I don't use anymore as they aren't good quality or aren't needed for me making watch straps.

I see some Maine thread is miscategorized as tools, should be supplies.

Spreadsheet of Leather Tools.pdf 231.61 kB · 1 download

150$ round knife? I think you can do as well with a NT or SDI cutter which will set you back for 20$. 

Which size of Tandy Pro 2.7 or 3.0 (I believe made by Since)  pricking Irons did you buy? Is the size of the Maine thread matches well with your irons size and thin enough for watch strap? 

9-12 prongs would be ideal and easier to prick a straighter line.

Checkout a crafter from Belgium: Atelierdecoster on Instagram. He does very nice watchstrap 

 

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/26/2024 at 4:48 PM, DieselTech said:

Thanks. I appreciate the informed run down of tools. I had a feeling a grand was a touch low on my estimate.

$1,400 CAD is about $1,000 US when you convert at retail and take into account transaction fee credit cards charge. So you're able to do it for tools. But then supplies cost me another a few hundred believe it or not. And then there's the leather of course

You'll have money in shipping from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply to within the US of that's where you live. Free shipping on orders over $100 there, and no Duty or Brokerage fees either. Those three costs have cost me a lot of money being in Canada.

If I get ambitious I'll update my spreadsheet to indicate what not to buy but it won't knock a lot off the $2,500 CAD ($1,500 US) I've spent so far.

Tandy prices in the US may be better too than their stores in Canada.

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/26/2024 at 8:14 PM, NDphung said:

150$ round knife? I think you can do as well with a NT or SDI cutter which will set you back for 20$. 

Which size of Tandy Pro 2.7 or 3.0 (I believe made by Since)  pricking Irons did you buy? Is the size of the Maine thread matches well with your irons size and thin enough for watch strap? 

9-12 prongs would be ideal and easier to prick a straighter line.

Checkout a crafter from Belgium: Atelierdecoster on Instagram. He does very nice watchstrap 

 

I have Olfa $10 cutters and like them too.

 

The pricking irons are Since brand, 2.7mm. the Maine 0.02"  thread works well with those. Here's a picture for you.

My fav thread though for appearance is Fil au Chinois 832, it's about 0.4mm thick, looks beautiful.

 

Thanks for the Belgium tip!

 

[DieselTech]

33 minutes ago, CalgaryJim said:

I have Olfa $10 cutters and like them too.

 

The pricking irons are Since brand, 2.7mm. the Maine 0.02"  thread works well with those. Here's a picture for you.

My fav thread though for appearance is Fil au Chinois 832, it's about 0.4mm thick, looks beautiful.

 

Thanks for the Belgium tip!

 

Looks good. Nice work. 

What leather did you use there? 

Thanks.

[NatesLeatherGds]

My beater, go to strap. Simple, strong, easy replacement. If I get excited, I might stitch some detailing on the edge. Yes, small punches, thin thread. Otherwise -- straps take skill. Personally, I decided long ago, after 10+ hours on straps to take the same sort of skills and repurpose them for bags, wallets, and things that I could bang out quick(er) and sell. And yes, "no, I'm not spending 50$ on a leather wallet -- will make my own" - start of hobby. 10 years later, still going. 

[Mablung]

28 minutes ago, NatesLeatherGds said:

My beater, go to strap. Simple, strong, easy replacement. If I get excited, I might stitch some detailing on the edge. Yes, small punches, thin thread. Otherwise -- straps take skill. Personally, I decided long ago, after 10+ hours on straps to take the same sort of skills and repurpose them for bags, wallets, and things that I could bang out quick(er) and sell. And yes, "no, I'm not spending 50$ on a leather wallet -- will make my own" - start of hobby. 10 years later, still going. 

That’s not a bad design idea. I might borrow it for making a beater strap for my Tissot I bought a month and a half ago or so. 

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/27/2024 at 10:42 PM, DieselTech said:

Looks good. Nice work. 

What leather did you use there? 

Thanks.

Thanks. It's actually some chrome tan leather from a leather store remnants bin. Too soft to be useful.

[CalgaryJim]

On 2/26/2024 at 3:10 PM, Danne said:

I thought I share this. The only thing really expensive here is the electric creaser and Ksblade irons, but the same result is possible with cheaper alternatives as mentioned. 

 

Thanks, I'll definitely check this out.

[CalgaryJim]

I found someone who was willing to make me an acrylic template set for 20/16 taper, 105mm and 65mm long, Buzzard Brain Leather on Etsy. He had to make them from scratch as he didn’t have a set of drawings he could use. I’m happy to report they turned out quite well and he only charged me the same price as his regular templates.

Edited March 22 by CalgaryJim
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