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Posted

Any of the various "generic" servos available on ebay/Amazon/Aliexpress will work with your 563, it doesn't need anything special. If possible try and get one with a 45mm/1 3/4" pulley and try it first without a speed reducer, it might be all you need.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

jrdunn:  how thick of leather do you sew on your Juki 562 with that set up that you mentioned above? Also, how slow can you sew with different thicknesses of leather?

Is it safe for me to assume, that you cannot use a needle positioner?

Thank you very much for your input and information.ValJ

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Posted

Garyak: can you please tell me how thick of leather you can sew with the Reliable 6000sm and how slow can you sew with? does it have enough torque as slow speeds to sew through thick leather?

i’ve heard some complaints about the reliable motor getting louder as it gets older. Have you noticed that to be true? I have a head injury from a distracted driver, hitting me in my vehicle and sound makes a huge difference to my ability to function. This is part of the reason I am transitioning from a clutch motor. 

Thank you for your information and input in advance, ValJ

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Posted

Everyone has been very helpful and gracious in giving me the above information!!!

As I am looking at some specific motors, I have a question I hope can be answered: What is the performance difference at the point of Sewing, at the needle, for Sewing, medium to fairly thick leather slowly (which will be on the Juki LU563) between the following two motors the first one has 3/4 hp and 12 coils/poles the other motor the second one has a 1hp with 8 coil/poles??? 

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Posted
On 2/16/2024 at 4:50 PM, kgg said:

Basically you have two main choices i) Brush type servo motor ii) Brushless servo motor

Brush type servo motor have No electronic controller components. The typical size is 550 watt, use a simple dial for setting the motor speed and have typical startup speeds in the 200 rpm range.

Brushless servo motors have a electronic motor control. The typical size is 750 watt, set the speed of the motor on control panel, have a typical startup speed of 500 rpms and have the built in ability of a needle positioner. The number of internal coils typically are 6 while the better ones have 12 coils. More coils the better the motor. Some of these motors with a needle positioners will not work properly if a speed reducer is added.

Needle positioning feature some people love them while others not so much.

Cost wise a basic brush servo motor is about $150 CAD while a 12 coil brushless servo motor is about $250 CAD.

A 550 watt brush type servo motor should handle the torque needs of the Juki LU 563 without the need for a speed reducer while a brushless servo motor may require one due to the typical startup speed of the motor.

kgg

Am I understanding correctly that a 550 W brush type Servo motor would have more torque at a slower start up speed than a brushless servo motor?  Can you tell me approximately how many stitches per minute a startup speed of 200 RPMs would translate to?

In general, I have always had a very good understanding of mechanical and electrical items, but since my head injury from a distracted driver, hitting me, I have more difficulty remembering and grasping some information – – very frustrating – – I appreciate any help that you can give me here. if I took cost of the motor out of the picture (which is a definite consideration for me I am unable to work) but if I took that out of the picture, what would be the most reliable motor with the highest startup, torque and slowest speed? it would be very helpful to have a good functioning needle positioner, but I probably would not trade it off for slow speed and high torque.

THANK YOU!

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, ValJ said:

Am I understanding correctly that a 550 W brush type Servo motor would have more torque at a slower start up speed than a brushless servo motor?

The torque of a brushless is greater then one with brushes. However the brushless have a higher startup speed then the brushed servo motors. Personally I prefer the brushed servo motor over the brushless due to it's simple design. No electronics to add another layer of possible problems. But then again I don't need / want the needle positioning feature and the one that came with my TSC-441 clone is filed in the "special" drawer. That said most of the world except for North America are using the brushless and they are becoming more popular here as they are all being import from places like China.

If I had to choose I would personally go with the Consew 550 watt that @Wizcrafts recommended. The next option would be the Reliable 6000SM.

kgg

 

 

 

 

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Are you sure you need a needle positioner? I fitted mine (came with the motor) tried it and didn't like it, I much prefer a slower speed sewing leather and that means I can stop/start the needle where I want it. If you want to get the maximum torque and slowest controllable speed then fit a servo (brush/brushless won't matter) and a "standard" reducer.

Answering your question regarding the difference between the two motors either of them will be more than adequate to handle anything you can fit under the feet. Be careful not to overthink things, if the two motors are nearly the same price then get the bigger one but if not then the 550 watt motor will work fine.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted
On 2/20/2024 at 11:54 AM, ValJ said:

jrdunn:  how thick of leather do you sew on your Juki 562 with that set up that you mentioned above? Also, how slow can you sew with different thicknesses of leather?

Is it safe for me to assume, that you cannot use a needle positioner?

Thank you very much for your input and information.ValJ

I have sewn two 10 oz. veg tan.  I don't really recommend it.  If you do, use SHARP needles.  I have a CB4500 for thicker stuff now.  I now use it for softer and thinner leather and putting zippers in.  I didn't have any interest in a needle positioner, still don't.  I'm not sure about this but. . .  I think the problem arises when your positioner indexes off the motor.  Then the 3:1 reduction messes with your position sensor.  I believe that if your sensor indexes off the handwheel of the machine, it should work as designed.  I'm not sure, though. There are people on the forum way smarter than me on this stuff.  Hopefully, they'll chime in.   JM2C,  Jim

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the all the advice...... which I followed .......  and encouraged our advertisers/supporters .........  and beautiful downtown Toledo, Ohio is sending me  a ConSew  550.

Now to sit patiently for it to arrive................  will be picking it up at a USA addy across the border and do my own brokerage...cheaper that way..   

Good competitive price including shipping.

Will post my progress in due course.

 

Bob C 

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Just to let everyone know.......  I followed the advice from the forum..............  my 211G156 runs perfectly smooth with the home made reduction box and the Toledo 550 watts motor.  Works nice on heavy duck canvass up to 7 layers and can do the curves at chunk-chunk-chunk speed no problems....... I wanted slow to match my skill level and it delivers......... have yet to tackle the leather straps but with the proper needles it should be a breeze.   Biggest problem now is bobbin size....... and making a temporary larger table with sheet plywood.

 

Thanks for all the advice.  Bob C

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