Why Ritza Thread?

[zuludog]

AFAIK Rocky Mountain's own brand linen & synthetic thread is Yue Fung, under their own name, and it's good stuff

I've tried Ritza thread and I too don't see why it's supposed to be so good

The threads I've settled on are Artisan Leather's own brand braided polyester - Chinese from a UK supplier - and Yue Fung

[SUP]

@zuludog Thank you. I'll certainly try both.

I've used Rhino thread from SFL . It is a flat thread as well. It works okay.

Edited February 20, 2024 by SUP

[Danne]

5 hours ago, zuludog said:

AFAIK Rocky Mountain's own brand linen & synthetic thread is Yue Fung, under their own name, and it's good stuff

I've tried Ritza thread and I too don't see why it's supposed to be so good

The threads I've settled on are Artisan Leather's own brand braided polyester - Chinese from a UK supplier - and Yue Fung

And if I'm not completely wrong, the producer of Yue Fung's thread is Meisi. Meisi also have a nice sample pack so you can try their different threads. My favorite is Meisi Xiange twist, it looks very similar to linen thread, but it's a synthetic thread so durable over time when used for wallets and other things where friction cause the thread to tear when linen is used.

[mike02130]

On 2/18/2024 at 1:02 PM, SUP said:

Why is Ritza thread considered one of the best?

I've never heard that one before except from the young kids that just started out, recently.  It has its purposes such as for sheaths, holsters and the like.  It's a bit thick for more refined work.  Vinymo and Meisi Xiange are pretty much the standard for higher-end work.  

[Danne]

4 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

I've never heard that one before except from the young kids that just started out, recently.  It has its purposes such as for sheaths, holsters and the like.  It's a bit thick for more refined work.  Vinymo and Meisi Xiange are pretty much the standard for higher-end work.  

I agree completely here. Ritza25 might be one of the most durable thread for a leathergood like a holster, but it doesn’t mean it’s the most suitable for a slim wallet or watch strap.

It would be like saying ”A SDS rotary hammer drill is the best drill”

Sure it can be true if you drill a lot in hard concrete, but it would certainly not be the best drill for someone who put up some shelves in their apartment with drywall.

[SUP]

@mike02130, I have no idea whether 'higher end' work requires thinner thread than  I presume 'lower end' work does. I do know that such thin thread does not work on the larger bags and backpacks that I make for family and friends. I started out recently too, about a year ago, although I am much older.

I also don't know the ages of the people who consider Ritza to be one of the best or recommend it and would not presume anything. Older people do try different things too. 

In my opinion, Thinner thread is needed for  items like wallets and watch straps. Larger items like backpacks, saddles etc.  need thicker thread. 

It is possible that Vinymo and Meisi ranges are of thinner thread, correct me if I am wrong, because I searched and could not find thread that is 0.8-1mm in thickness.  Rhino, Ritza and others have ranges of thread of thicker diameters.

Comparing them would be like comparing key limes to grapefruit.

 

Edited February 20, 2024 by SUP

[DieselTech]

Yeah I wish they made the rocky mountain thread in some larger diameters. I think the .55mm thread is in that 207-277 thread size. 

[sparctek]

I am a hobby leather worker and I've only been doing this for a couple of years. So, take this for what it's worth as my observations:

Ritza tiger thread is flat woven polyester so it has high strength and resistance to elements. If you are making items to be used outdoors this thread is a good fit for those items. Especially strap goods.

I like using it on larger items I make, i.e. book/bible covers, not because of it's strength and resistance to elements, but because it looks very nice paired with 8 spi french pricking irons. For that spi I like to use the .6 mm thread. The only time I've had an issue with it twisting and knotting, is when I have a long run and the thread starts to dry out. When that happens I just  run the remaining thread through bee wax and it goes back to behaving normally.

For smaller items like wallets or card holders I like to use linen thread. I like the Meisi super fine M40 paired with 10 spi pricking irons. I tried the round poly braid thread but it didn't look as nice to me as linen thread. That is just personal preference.

One other thing to note: I did notice the tiger thread tended to dry out and kink more when I pulled the thread at weird angles when setting the stitch. If I pull the thread straight out with both hands, there is less friction on the thread and it seems to behave better. That goes for both linen and Ritza threads.

Just my thoughts...

 

[SUP]

@sparctek, that is a lot of useful information! I appreciate that. 

Ritza is lightly waxed, so it is possible it rubs off as I stitch.  I will try waxing it periodically, before it knots. Seeing that it knots over time,  it might just be drying out as you say. I am not sure  whether I pull it at weird angles - I will watch out for that.

One question - how do you get flat thread  to lie flat in your stitches? Doesn't it  wind around as you go through the stitches? I try to keep it flat as I stitch, rather like when I make laced bags, but this is difficult with the thin thread.

 

Edited February 20, 2024 by SUP

[sparctek]

I spent a lot of time practicing my stitching before I did my first project, so I made a lot of mistakes and figured out my own way of trying not to repeat them. One of the first things I do is make sure the first stitches lay flat in the slanted hole the awl makes. Both back and forward stitches. If I have to slow down and guide the thread flat I will take the time to do that.

Once those first stitches lay flat those that follow will tend to lay flat.  Early on when I was practicing with long thread lengths I started to pull the thread slowly holding it with my thumb and first (pointer) finger. I watch as I am pulling the thread and if I see the thread starting to turn or twist I roll my thumb and finger in the opposite direction to counter act it.  Once the stitch loop is really close to the  stitch hole I adjust my hands so the thread is being pulled by my pinkies, and then I set the stitch with tension. That seats the thread flat. But, eventually the thread will tend to start turning when it gets dry. That's when I apply more bees wax. That usually works unless the stitching run is so long the thread starts to fray from friction.

Being completely honest I still miss a couple now and then.