Question on dyeing.

[fredk]

You don't have to dye before using Antiquing. I often apply it without dyeing

[TonyV]

All valid advise above.  There are so many techniques available and you have options to choose and practice with.  Fobs are great for learning new skills and methods and I'll add one:

Have you tried buffing your finish as the last step?  Shining up the outermost face of the piece can make the stamping really stand out.

[Tophee]

Thank you all for your advise. Atm I only have resolene, I am unsure if that can be used as a resist for any antiqueing paste I would get. So I would have to get either tan kote or pro resist as I see alot of people use from the posts I have seen which at this moment I do not wanna get too much stuff. I cannot dip unfortuantely, limited space, not buying dye in large amounts yet. But I have seen more than a few people mention dipping their leather pieces, at least for pro dyes from fiebings. I did attempt to buff the finish with a micro cloth. It didn't really seem like it did much to the piece I posted a picture of. But I have other little pieces I will be making once I get a lighter color dye so I will do it on those as well and see. The other night I tried diluting this Mocassin Brown dye and using a scrap piece to see a color change, it didnt change the color still was very dark. So at least with the dye I have, diluting seems to just stretch it out not change the color. I diluted the dye 50/50 with alcohol. Ill be picking up a lighter dye and antique paste, still debating on getting pro resist or tan kote, unless I can use resolene as a resist than I will use that for now. 

[Mablung]

1 hour ago, Tophee said:

Thank you all for your advise. Atm I only have resolene, I am unsure if that can be used as a resist for any antiqueing paste I would get. So I would have to get either tan kote or pro resist as I see alot of people use from the posts I have seen which at this moment I do not wanna get too much stuff. I cannot dip unfortuantely, limited space, not buying dye in large amounts yet. But I have seen more than a few people mention dipping their leather pieces, at least for pro dyes from fiebings. I did attempt to buff the finish with a micro cloth. It didn't really seem like it did much to the piece I posted a picture of. But I have other little pieces I will be making once I get a lighter color dye so I will do it on those as well and see. The other night I tried diluting this Mocassin Brown dye and using a scrap piece to see a color change, it didnt change the color still was very dark. So at least with the dye I have, diluting seems to just stretch it out not change the color. I diluted the dye 50/50 with alcohol. Ill be picking up a lighter dye and antique paste, still debating on getting pro resist or tan kote, unless I can use resolene as a resist than I will use that for now. 

Resolene should work as a resist. Test it on a scrap piece to be sure. With any resist, it’s important to not leave the antique paste on too long. Most of those coatings aren’t absolutely “antique proof,” if you will, so it is important to wipe the antique off quickly if you only want it to stay in the stamp grooves. Otherwise, it dries in place and becomes more difficult to remove. 

[Northmount]

@Tophee Moved to Tooling, Stamping & Carving Leather > Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners