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Lil Doodler

Elmers / white glue mix for edge treatment?

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Howdy!

I saw someplace on the web that some people use Elmer's white glue to cover up gaps on the edges where layer(s) of leather meet, to make a very smooth edge. Some mix the Elmer's with acrylic paint or Edge-Kote before applying. Some hit the smoothed edge with acrylic paint or Edge-Kote after.

I think if that works, it will make finishing edges faster and easier.

I did a search of the forum, but didn't see anything, so I thought I'd ask to see if anyone is using this and had good results/long term good results. But the search results were more about gluing leather together with Elmer's, not as an edge treatment.

If you've tried this, please let me know what results you had.

Edited by Lil Doodler

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Arron from Makers Leather Supply does it. I do it now on almost all my vegtan because I got tired of paying a bundle for tolkenole. Works pretty well . I usualy follow with beeswax

 

Does not work on chrome tan. Still have to use the tokenole on that

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Did it for years. Diluted out Elmers about 50:50 with water. It makes a hard edge, not always the most flexible with that ratio. That was my mix for stuff that didn't need to flex - saddle horns, stirrups, belts. Wallets and things that flexed a lot I used Feibings LeatherSheen or an acrylic floor wax. With the Elmers especially you need to burnish with a wood slicker or white canvas. I found out the hard way that denim scraps from old jeans bled blue color into the glue. 

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8 minutes ago, bruce johnson said:

Did it for years. Diluted out Elmers about 50:50 with water. It makes a hard edge, not always the most flexible with that ratio. That was my mix for stuff that didn't need to flex - saddle horns, stirrups, belts. Wallets and things that flexed a lot I used Feibings LeatherSheen or an acrylic floor wax. With the Elmers especially you need to burnish with a wood slicker or white canvas. I found out the hard way that denim scraps from old jeans bled blue color into the glue. 

"(giggle)" . . . thanks Bruce . . . 

I just never could get any results I liked with blue jeans . . . gave up on the idea before I got the "blues"

May God bless,

Dwight

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I do it occasionally. I'd say use water-resistant or all-weather PVA glue. Then it won't become glue again at the slightest hint of water. The glue I get is thin enuf it doesn't need any more thinning but I put a small amount of acrylic floor finish (aka Pledge with Future shine or Mop and Glo or whatever its called now) in which helps the water proofing.

It will work on chrome tan. ppl aren't putting it on right. You need to clamp up the chrome tan real tight and very close the join, like 1 mm from it. After applying the PVA you need to keep it clamped up until its fully dry. Its not a fast finish but its good for smoothing that awkward c/t edge 

In all cases I apply it with a #1 multi-purpose digit.  I slick it with some beeswax when its dry

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In that video I have to question whether what he does is any different to just dampening the edge with water because he wipes it off almost straight away.

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Thanks for sharing!

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The question I have is does this method get milky when moisture gets in it (like a wallet being stored in a pocket) or does it remain the same????

And how long does the mixture last???

Edited by Doc Reaper
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PVA glue going 'milky' means its trying to return to its glue state. If you use water-proof, or outside use, or weather-proof glue it won't be going 'milky'

A mix for applying to leather edges lasts for as long as the glue stays liquid. Several hours, days if you keep it in an air-tight container If starts to get too thick just add a small bit of water. In fact slightly thick glue works best on edges.  Treat it as you would your bottle of PVA glue

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