Knife Display Case - WIP

[Brokenolmarine]

Okay y'all, fill your coffee mug, this will be a long stretch.  I was busy today.  

So, the oil dried overnight and my first task today was to wax the boards and get them ready to glue up.  I have talked in a lot of my posts about the beeswax.  In this series I have shared pics of the actual products.  This is the Beeswax I use.  I have to say I LOVE the smell of this stuff.  NOT like we used to smell the freshly mimeographed tests they handed out when us old folks were in school smell, or that dizzying smell of two part epoxy in a closed room smell.  This stuff smells GOOD.  It's bring back fond memories good.

 

When I apply the wax, I have learned a few tricks over the years.  I have a cheap hair dryer and I heat whatever project I am going to wax a little.  I do mean a little, you don't want to overheat whatever it is and damage it, or change it's configuration.  I avoid this by holding the project in my hand.  Just before I apply the wax I aim the hair dryer into the can for five to ten seconds.  This softens the wax, I watch and you can see a slight color change.  I don't want it runny.  By heating the wood, bone, etc, you also let the wax get down into the pores to better protect.  I apply a coat and buff it out, then apply a second coat and buff.  We are waxed here, that soft sheen.  For high gloss you build up several coats and buff.  You'll get there.  I like the soft glow.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

At this point I was ready to glue up, so I pulled the painter's tape from the protected areas and set up.  I matched the reference markings and applied glue with the acid brush, and matched and band clamped.  Bar clamps insured the middle of the long sides were tight against the bottom panel.

[Brokenolmarine]

Next, while the glue was setting up, I pulled out the 1/4" plug cutter and cut a dozen plugs in a block of scrap from the original board the case was cut from.

After using a mini-square to mark the locations of the holes I wanted, I used a Forstner bit to countersink eight holes for reinforcement of the glue up.  Then used an appropriate drill bit to predrill holes in the countersink for eight finishing nails.

[Brokenolmarine]

Many would use a hammer to set the nails, but I used a punch and my brass mallet and a series of light taps to seat the nails.  Much more control.  I have ruined a piece in the past missing with a hammer.  Difficult to remove a ding from a good sized hammer.    So I dip each nail in the wood glue, set it in the hole by hand, then drive it with the punch and mallet.

 

Once the nails are set, I pull a plug from the block and using a nail, run glue around the inside of the countersink.  Then set a plug with a light tap of the rawhide mallet.  

[Brokenolmarine]

While the glue sets on the plugs, I play with my New Maker's Mark, to create a new one for the panel.  I'll glue it over the one carved in the panel with contact cement.  Three or four tries and I've got a good one.

[Brokenolmarine]

With the glue set, it's time to trim the plugs off flush.  You need the right chisel and it has to be sharp.  Keeping them organized and sharp is easy if they are properly stored.  I took care of this one winter when I had nothing to do.

I chose a wide flat chisel and my heavy mallet. 

The key to a clean cut is keeping the chisel flat against the surface, cutting with the grain, and a smooth even cut. If you hit too hard you'll break the plug and pull a chunk out of the countersink.  I know this from experience.  You get set up, tight against the plug and then a firm even stroke.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Eight set ups, eight cutting strokes, eight flush cuts.  I got lucky. 

Touch them with Watco Oil and they come very close to matching now.  After they dry and are waxed, they may match perfectly.  If they don't, I'll just say I planned it that way, as an ACCENT.   Yeah, That's the Ticket, an accent.  Yeah.... 

Far from perfect, but there is still a lot to do.  I'll address the corners when I finish the lid, I'll sand them all together, and close that gap. 

Start on that tomorrow.

[Brokenolmarine]

I cemented the new logo to the panel and installed the panel into the case using the quarter round molding to hold it in place.  I pinned the molding down using a brad nailer, but did NOT glue the molding to the leather or the case sides, JUST in CASE.   That was looking good, so it was time to install the magnets.  I laid them out on the lines on the leather and insured they were aligned with one another using a pair of three foot rules.

With the provided screws, I drilled pilot holes and carefully installed the magnets.  I had placed the case on a pair of 2x2s as I knew there was a slight chance the screws might go thru the bottom of the case, so I wanted to be prepared.  Slow and steady, verifying each position before I drilled, I got them installed.  It looked good.

Three screws did penetrate the bottom of the case by about 1/16th of an inch.  The Dremel with a cutoff wheel made quick work of the little bit that showed thru.  No worries.

The new logo came out very nice as well.  I'm going to love this new stamp on my leather work.

Next on the to do list is starting on the lid and plexi window.  Then installing lighting and hinges.

Stay tuned.

[blue duck]

This is a great post. Look forward to the finale.

 

[DieselTech]

Looks awesome. Beautiful work. 100years from now somebody will really appreciate & admire the work that was put into this case.