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Trailblazer87

How do you suggest I mold a holster for a pistol with a light?

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I've tried searching but couldn't find a good thread on this, even though I know I have come across a couple in my reading here.

 

So with that said, how would you experts suggest i mold a holster for a pistol with a light mounted?  I just recently purchased a Sig P320 and want to mount a light to it since we go riding in less that stellar areas, sometimes at night, and need a way to carry it.

 

I've made a few 1911 holsters with no problems, one for my 686 Smith was fun, but this darn light has me scratching my head.

 

Thank you in advance. 

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At least you actually have the gun, and will have the light.  step one get those two parts together, and trace it out.    If you are doing a vacuum form and you are worried about having some deep recess that could lock the light in place, I'd recommend maybe getting some molding clay and press than in any gaps, then wrap saran wrap around that area before doing your vacuum form.    

Edited by Littlef

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20 minutes ago, Littlef said:

At least you actually have the gun, and will have the light.  step one get those two parts together, and trace it out.    If you are doing a vacuum form and you are worried about having some deep recess that could lock the light in place, I'd recommend maybe getting some molding clay and press than in any gaps, then wrap saran wrap around that area before doing your vacuum form.    

That makes sense,  I guess my main concern is the light is wider than the trigger guard out of necessity to be able to get a finger on the switch, normally retention is made by molding to the trigger guard and ejection port. I'm not too keen on using the light as the point of friction for retention, I guess a retention strap will be in order.

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Gotcha, yea when the area around the end of the barrel is wider than the trigger guard, retention is tricky.   Making a thumb break will definitely help.  Another thing I've seen done, to add stiffness, is to mold a strip of kydex and sandwich it between the outer leather and the liner.   - that might be worth keeping in mind if you have fit/retention issues as you work it out.  

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Tactical lights are one of the few no-go's for me. The round Streamlight variety are just not conducive, in my opinion.  The flat lights that match the width of the gun are fine, but still not ideal.  The width makes it hard to mold the leather, and keep it's shape over a large area, and holstering is tough.  You lose the "funnel" effect of the profile.  I liken it to trying to push a beer can into a coozie, with no side support'

 

I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've had no luck on that front.  That being said, if you figure it out, by all means, let us know.  I've turned down many orders for that very thing. I refer them to a Kydex maker.

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Use a thumb break retention strap or mold the retention around the light and slide. I’ve done one for my CZ P-01 with a Streamlight TLR-7A that way. Some molding around the trigger guard is okay, but just not too deep. 

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Mask off the area at the trigger guard to match the width of the light.  Yes, it will leave a larger gap than normal.  But the light will provide stability of its own.  Scrap leather cut to size works for me.  You will need to stitch in front of the light to build a ledge for the gun to sit on.  That is also normally the trigger guard provides that.  

 

 

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All good stuff so far, thanks.

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Well . . . here is how I do it . . . someone else showed me on another video  . . .   here is my version.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://youtu.be/ELmvtb2SyWo

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12 hours ago, Dwight said:

Well . . . here is how I do it . . . someone else showed me on another video  . . .   here is my version.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://youtu.be/ELmvtb2SyWo

Good stuff, thank you for sharing  

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How to do it? My suggestion is to do it very carefully.

Many of the light units and laser sights are constructed of plastic that may not accept a great deal of pressure applied during the forming process. Some units have activation buttons or switches that might be damaged during the process. Other units may not be effectively water-resistant, so wet-forming may cause some problems.

Other than those potential issues, I've found that many of the popular units mount either to a rail under the dust cover, or to the forward portion of the trigger guard bow. Either way that space forward of the trigger guard may no longer be exposed sufficiently to cause the pistol to remain at the desired point in the holster, perhaps allowing the holstered pistol to be pushed lower in the holster body than designed (especially with open-bottom holsters).

Finally, with so many brands and types of lights and laser sights it would be very difficult (and expensive) to stock a sufficient variety to meet potential demands. A single-unit order from a local customer who can make his pistol and attachment(s) available for patterning and forming can be accommodated, but single-unit custom holsters are far more time-consuming than a general production piece for which a proven pattern is on hand. Also keeping in mind that you are responsible for any losses or damage to property of others while it is in your possession.

Since these devices became somewhat common (past 10-15 years) I tried to avoid such jobs. Before retiring I was completing about 2000 pieces per year (average about 40 per week), working in batches of 10 or 12 pieces at a time going through the various steps (cutting, dying, linings, assembly, stitching, edges, forming, finishing, hardware, drying, packaging, shipping). This allowed me to complete each piece with an average of 47 minutes of shop time. Custom one-of-a-kind orders frequently require far more total time, so we can find ourselves working for very little profit in comparison to the time invested in each piece.

Most jobs are interesting, some are challenging, some can just eat up a bunch of time for little or no return.

My thoughts, for what they may be worth.

Edited by Lobo

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